i want to upgrade my springs so if i want to put in a bigger cam i aint going to have any problems but i get confused when trying to find the ones to put together. anyone have any part #'s for the springs and retainers preferably using comp or crane the cam i was thinking about putting in was a comp xfi .570/.565, 218*224* or a cc306

 

Both companies show spring requirements and P/N's when you pull up the cam specs.

 

The XFI268 cam calls for the beehive 26918...but of course you don't want those ...just search and you'll read tons of threads on those springs breaking... so go with PAC1218 or PAC1518..the 1518s are much more expensive but will last lots longer with agressive cams, the 1518s are nitride treated and will last. The PACs are the exact same spec as the called for comp spring. There was a group purchase for the PAC springs going on...maybe they will extend it..go check ou the GP forum.

 

stock ls7 springs work with most apps for ltx engines. or is that the lifters??? worth looking into i guess.

 

Thats the lifters...not to say the springs won't work, but I know the LS7 lifters interchange...been reading alot about lifters for upcoming cam swap again... The same beehives that work in our LTx engines also fit the LS1 engines..so the springs might, but I don't know the bind clearances or max lift they can handle.

 

Just out of curiosity why are you looking at 2 cams completly different in size like that?

 

The crane 10308 spring kit will work great for a CC306

 

thats a good question im just learning about valve springs and am not sure what to go with or what to even look for. i heard you have to match the springs with the cam, i heard that just by upgrading the springs in my hotcam kit will improve top end, im just trying to get some ideas. so i dont even know if they make a spring that can handle both of those cams. but i heard a guy at the track with an xfi cam in his bird. im also just wanting to not have to change out the springs every time swap out a cam.

 

Well that should be the least of your worries...there's something else wrong here if you plan on swapping cams every 20k miles or so... I'd say springs that are over 30k miles should be swapped out anyway, and you probably aren't going to swap a cam out in less than 30k unless you really don't like the cam you put in there the first time around.
In picking a cam, you should first decide where you want the power band to be...low, mid, or high rpms... basically how high do you want to spin it to make power....if its a daily driver or mostly street, you're probably going to want it to have low/mid power...

 

i do track days about once a month as part of a group called N.A.S.A and im usually spinning the engine a little above 5500rpm, i have some vids posted on this site if you want to take a look at my driving style. i really cant complain about the cam, which is a hot cam kit. i could make more power with these heads that i bought off ebay if i send them away to get ported the only thing is there missing the rocker studs. so if i just stick with the setup i have now which is the hot cam kit will upgrading the springs help?

 

Ok, it appears you also have the stock bottom end so you probably won't want to be spinning it past 6500 on a regular basis. If you have the springs that came with the hot cam, swapping them isn't going to gain you anything unless they have high miles on them, the hot cam isn't a high lift cam needing big springs or beehives... but there are many cams that can make you more power in the lower rpms that have alot higher lift and ramp rates, which you will need springs for, like the PAC1518s.
All depends on what you want to spend...I'd say a good port job on the heads, and XFI268 or LE1.5 cam, or maybe even a LE2 cam but that will require spinning a little higher...why not send you heads to Lloyd and get the 1.5 package..he'll put the springs and all on when doing the heads for ya with the 7/16 studs.
Get a good 350-380rwhp with that setup and it come on early in the rpms.

 

the heads are definetely the next stage that im going after a soon as i get the cash im getting those done. would it be crazy to just keep the hot cam and go with some LE1 or LE2 heads, and whats up with the LE1.5 i didnt see that on his site,

 

Its basically an LE2 setup with a bit smaller cam...one right between the LE1 and LE2, actually its Brets BRE1.5 cam...has a little rougher idle than the LE1 cam due to more duration but still has good low end/mid torque.
If you're going thru removing the heads, I'd step up the cam a little from the hot cam, but thats just me, alot of folks have had very good results from the hotcam, just depends on what your total goal is as there will still be some power left on the table in the low/mid range by not changing the cam.