LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

what piston?

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Old 06-21-2004, 11:05 PM
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what piston?

ok, its rebuild time, prolly goin stroker. not sure if 383 or 396 yet. will be getting forged crank, hbeam rods, and cant figure out what pistons to go with. I know they will have to be custom spec'd for the stroker crank, but dont see much of a selection for cheaper forged pistons. I plan on spraying it 200HP shot, so its gonna have to put up with that. I see the SRP and PROBE pistons for $480, but is there anything cheaper that will work w/a 6.0" rod/3.75(or3.875") stroke crank.
anyone got any ideas?
TIA
chris
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Old 06-23-2004, 05:55 AM
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Re: what piston?

Originally posted by IrocSS85
ok, its rebuild time, prolly goin stroker. not sure if 383 or 396 yet. will be getting forged crank, hbeam rods, and cant figure out what pistons to go with. I know they will have to be custom spec'd for the stroker crank, but dont see much of a selection for cheaper forged pistons. I plan on spraying it 200HP shot, so its gonna have to put up with that. I see the SRP and PROBE pistons for $480, but is there anything cheaper that will work w/a 6.0" rod/3.75(or3.875") stroke crank.
anyone got any ideas?
TIA
chris
I would honetly recommend going with SRP piston. For the price it is one of the best pistons out there. TRW is also another piston you may want to look at if you are on a budget.
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Old 06-23-2004, 12:02 PM
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Go with the SRP.

Probes should be a little cheaper.

Cheaper than that would be a Speed-Pro, but a little heavier.

Just get the SRP's and be one.
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:37 PM
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well if I had my way, Id get the srps and 4340 crank 4340 hbeam rods, but unfortunatly, I cant do that right now. maybe I'll build a non nitrous budget eng for now, and work on another short block for later when I can afford to do what I want. that would bum me out though.
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Old 06-23-2004, 07:48 PM
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What do you need 4340 crank and H-beam rods for?

What do you plan on doing with this engine?
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:17 PM
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well, the car is my toy car. so no daily driving or anything. occasional trips to work, but mostly curise and some race. if I could built the eng. with the best parts, I could use a 300 shot as often as I wanted to without worrying too much about it. if I rebuild with the cheaper parts, I would be afraid to run the 125 shot in it. all those parts are only rated to 500 horsepower in the advertisements. plenty for the car N/A, but not with the nitrous. worst case scenario is I dont get to run the nitrous if I cant afford the parts. I just want to see whats out there before I make my decision and I havent seen any pistons advertised for the LT1 that are less then the SRP's w/o being cast or hyperuetectic (sp?)Im gonna call summit to see about some trw's I guess.
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:39 PM
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What do you want to throw 300 nitrous on it for...to say that you're spraying 300 nitrous?

Or, do you have a certain E.T. in mind?

I was going to say if you're looking for something to play around with, make decent power, and handle a small shot of nitrous, get something similar to what I have with the Scat 9000 crank, Scat 4340 forged I-beams, SRP Pistons (Probe is slightly cheaper, and Speed Pro/TRW's will be less than that). Put the rest of the money that you were going to put into the bottom end into the heads/valvetrain instead. You'll have more fun N/A, and still handle a small burst of juice.

JMO

Shoot an email to Brian Adams ( scatstroker@hotmail.com) www.adperformance.com . He's got some pretty damn good deals on engine parts.
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Old 06-23-2004, 10:06 PM
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well, I already have ported heads, 233/239 .580 cam, portd intake, 30lb inj, longtube headers/offroad ypipe, and alot of other boltons. it should be putting out around 450HP as is. maybe a little more once it is a 383. the scat 9000 will be my "atleast" crank. they are only $200 from flatlander racing. I have dave at ComboMotorsports looking into some prices for me right now. I just bought my whole valvetrain setup from them and they are great guys. so I told him if they will price match, Id buy from them. but I also told them Id buy from whoever gives me the best price since moneys tight right now. I'll call your them overthere at AD tomorrow. Im guessing that price on there site for the 383 rotating assemb. is for the old style 2piece rear main blocks. they are always cheaper. thought the only diff. is the crank itself.
as for the nitrous, I dont have any goal in mind, Im just thinkin Id like to build it to be able to take it if I ever get there w/the car. you know, spend a couple extra hundy now, and not do it again later. I prolly wouldnt even put that kinda power in it now anyways due to the rest of the car not being ready for that. still need subframes, rollcage, and more to take that kinda shot.
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Old 06-23-2004, 10:17 PM
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Oh damn Didn't know you were that far along already!

I see your reasoning for wanting those parts then.

Good luck!
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Old 06-23-2004, 11:29 PM
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A Scat 9000 is a pretty tough little crank. Heck, it's better than a stock crank, and people throw 150 shots at those all the time with good results. I think you'd be ok with that crank with up to a 200 shot, but I wouldn't go beyond that.

Also, have you checked to see if that cam will clear the rods you're intending to use?
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Old 06-24-2004, 06:03 AM
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thanks for the tips. Im hoping to get rods to clear the cam specificaly, but I haent figured out what rods will clear the cam. do you know of any that will work? depending on the price diff. of the rods, I may just stick w/the scat 5140 Ibeam rods and get a diff. cam/pushrods. what a pain in the butt this is.
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