What to get with about $300
I was first thinking 4.10's, but I also need a new diff, so that would be pushing $600 including install. I have a cutout, but no electric cutout, still stock sloppy suspension, LS1 taillights, CAI, catback, Pro 5.0. This is daily driver, future autocrossing, no drag.
So I am thinking, either:
-elec cutout + 97+ style console
-35mm swaybar
-Weld-on DD subframes
-either of above w/take off shocks.
-1LE driveshaft
-97+ gauge conversion w/silver face gauges
-Open to more suggestions! I havent bought anything for the car in a while and want to do something to it.
So I am thinking, either:
-elec cutout + 97+ style console
-35mm swaybar
-Weld-on DD subframes
-either of above w/take off shocks.
-1LE driveshaft
-97+ gauge conversion w/silver face gauges
-Open to more suggestions! I havent bought anything for the car in a while and want to do something to it.
well first off
if you want to autox it, look into the regs. certain mods will bump you up into different classes, particularly a class that may be way out of your league as a beginner.
i do beleive springs and shocks DO NOT do that...so i'll suggest that. but save up and get decent shocks like bilsteins.
or look into sway bars, either something like bmr's 32/21mm solid bars w/ poly bushings for about $325 or just a Suspension Tech 35mm front bar.
you need to plan it out a little more if you really want to autoX it.
if you want to autox it, look into the regs. certain mods will bump you up into different classes, particularly a class that may be way out of your league as a beginner.
i do beleive springs and shocks DO NOT do that...so i'll suggest that. but save up and get decent shocks like bilsteins.
or look into sway bars, either something like bmr's 32/21mm solid bars w/ poly bushings for about $325 or just a Suspension Tech 35mm front bar.
you need to plan it out a little more if you really want to autoX it.
I'm for subframes. I just did the SLP bolt-ons and the body feels soooo much more tighter. A lot of the typical squeaks and rattles were reduced and most importantly, I gained added traction because the front end can now plant the rear end better on hard take offs. There's multiple benefits here, including a guy I read about on LS1.com who wrecked hard, but survived, because it was proven his sub-frames was a poor man's "rollcage". Plus, for a daily driver that you want to X and drag will just extend the life of your car. Good luck either way!
So far the votes are for subframes and swaybars. As far as autox goes, I will be put in SM once I do go with some 4.10's, so I'm not too worried about the subframes bumping me out of stock class. Any suggestions other than what I listed? Keep em coming!
$300 will buy SFCs and a front swaybar, won't it? The front swaybar is a big improvement. SFCs don't make much difference in handling but they make the car more stable over uneven pavement. Also a shift light is a good idea.
SLP weld-on subframes are $200 and the 35mm swaybar is $148, so I will order the swaybar + rag-joint eliminator on fri, then after I see what I have left after xmas, the subframes and rear SLP take off shocks may be next. I already have a Harlan shift light in my defrost hole, I love that thing!
Well the decision was going to be 35mm sway bar, then get subframes based on available $ after xmas. However, the vibration that I have been feeling has now been proven to be the DS.
I swapped out my steel shaft for my friend's alum LS1 shaft and took the car up to 90, no more heavy vibration of the drivetrain, so now it looks like the DS may come before the subframes now.
I swapped out my steel shaft for my friend's alum LS1 shaft and took the car up to 90, no more heavy vibration of the drivetrain, so now it looks like the DS may come before the subframes now.
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