LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

what gears for a head & cam daily driver?

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Old Jun 5, 2003 | 05:42 PM
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Z95m6's Avatar
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From: newton, kansas, USA
what gears for a head & cam daily driver?

I just got my car back together with the new motor and it has a little cam surge at low rpm. I am thinking gears would help that as well as make the car start out easier from a stop and also keep from lugging the motor on the highway in 6th gear. I have heard so many times that 4.10's are the way to go with a 6spd but this car is suppose to be my daily driver so i am wondering if the 4.10's and lack of traction could be a tad too dangerous in rain or snow. I was almost 95% sure i would go with 3.73's but now am wondering if they would be enough gear or not. I think i would like 4.10's but would they make my head & cam car a little too radical for the street? I sure wish some one made 3.90's for these cars . If i go with gears what kind should i get? i want motives for less noise but are they strong enough? especially the 4.10's? Any help or input would be appreciated thanks guys.
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 05:48 PM
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I am running a Motive 4.10 in a daily driver and it is great it is a little noisy but that is my only complaint. Traction is not an issue b/c of my DR's but with regular tires I would think it would be a problem. JMHO Matt
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 05:57 PM
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I am sure traction at WOT would be a problem but i am just talking about starting the car from a stop in less than ideal conditions and in first and second gear in rain and stuff. I am interested in knowing if 4.10's might be a little too radical for a daily driver street car.
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 06:02 PM
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go with 4.10s... lose all traction off idle. then get some decent tires so you can get the traction you lost and break those 4.10s. lastly order yourself a 12-bolt and be done with it. of course you could always skip the first 2 and go straight to the 12-bolt
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 05:10 PM
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Go with Genuine GM OEM gears if you can. Have it set up with RATECH solid shims instead of the crush sleeves. The solid shims only cost about $15.00. The GMs should be the quietest of all. JMHO
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 05:19 PM
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I've got the GM 4.10s and I'm very pleased. Much more responsive and plenty of hard launches... hasn't broken yet. Very quiet.
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 06:34 PM
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Originally posted by turbo_Z
go with 4.10s... lose all traction off idle. then get some decent tires so you can get the traction you lost and break those 4.10s. lastly order yourself a 12-bolt and be done with it. of course you could always skip the first 2 and go straight to the 12-bolt
what a 12-bolt?
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 07:51 PM
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A healthy 12 bolt is $1500 - $2000. Then, you'll want to go with a 9-inch. Anyways, it depends on the power.

Looking at what you got... about 400 RWHP... Guess. You don't have to worry about busting the rear. With slicks, I'd look out. When it goes, then get the axle/diff. 10-bolts are the weakest link it seems in the drivetrain.

Then again, when I run the Pony Express and Silver State Classic in Nevada, John Carpenter runs in the Unlimited Class in his Camaro with a 10-bolt. Depends in how hard you are on the rear and how hard you launch/shift. For John, it hold up when he runs 200+ MPH for 90 Miles!

Last edited by Wild1; Jun 6, 2003 at 08:02 PM.
Old Jun 6, 2003 | 08:01 PM
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I had 4:10's in my car with the stock rear. This is a daily driver with a lot of freeway driving. When I put the 9-inch in I went with 3:89's. You said you wish they made 3:90's for these cars, and that is basically what I have. Now I have a set of 4:11's sitting in my garage to go in. I miss my 4:10's and should have put them in when I did the 9-inch. I don't think you will have any regrets. Go with the 4:10's.
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