What first, Converter or LTs?
What first, Converter or LTs?
I'm planning out the next few mods i'm making and am trying to decide to get a higher stall converter or long tubes first. Do Long Tubes make it more difficult to remove the transmission once installed? Will the removal of the Y-pipe be the only aditional work required after the LTs are installed? I'd assume i'd get a nearly equal gain with either and they both cost about the same after everything is all said and done ($700 compaired to $800) so i'm having difficulties deciding which to do first.
Re: What first, Converter or LTs?
The stall will really only help you if you can hook up, so your gonna need some good drag radials along with that. I would say youll get anywhere from .3 to .6 at a track with the addition of a stall and drag radials. The longtubes will give you more mph and help on mid to high end power and will sound badass too (should gain .2-.4). I would go with Longtubes first if I were you, unless your are an avid track guy and want the best gains at the track.
Re: What first, Converter or LTs?
The closest track is 2 hours away from me so i won't be going to the track too often, once every month or two. I was leaning a little towards the long tubes but thought it might make putting a converter in a lot more difficult then it needed to be.
Re: What first, Converter or LTs?
If it were me, I would go with the converter first. With the right converter, you will see better gains. You will not only see performance gains from a stop but also from a roll. It will also get rid of the dead spots you feel now.
Brian
Brian
Re: What first, Converter or LTs?
Just keep in mind that when you start beating the crap out of that transmission that it will break. The 4l60 isn't the best tranny on earth. That high stall is going to make more shock through the driveline which is more harsh on parts. If you don't have enough money for a tranny rebuild, I would go with the longtubes. Like you said, the dragstrip is 2 hours away and you will have to pull your tranny down when you break it anyway. Just wait for the rebuild to put the high stall in there. Kill 2 birds with one stone. Also, keep in mind your rear end. The 10-bolt is only so strong. I try to tell everyone to first get their rear end done right, then tranny, then do the bolt-ons. This reduced downtime when you break stuff.
Back to the question. Get the longtubes. And if you're ready to spend 800 bucks and you're going to do the work yourself (which isn't that hard), get a dual exhaust setup too. I've seen hooker longtubes go for as low as 200 for a set. I'd say it would be easy to find them for 300. And I just bought my true dual exhuast system with custom x-pipe for 100 bucks. Just look around. Make educated decisions with your money.
Back to the question. Get the longtubes. And if you're ready to spend 800 bucks and you're going to do the work yourself (which isn't that hard), get a dual exhaust setup too. I've seen hooker longtubes go for as low as 200 for a set. I'd say it would be easy to find them for 300. And I just bought my true dual exhuast system with custom x-pipe for 100 bucks. Just look around. Make educated decisions with your money.
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