ok, so with the new 5.0 mustang arriving soon with 412 hp, seems like 400 hp is the new 300 hp of 15 years ago. i don't want my old faithful lt1 to get left in the dust with these new 400 + hp cars out there

i want to stay as smooth and close sounding/idling etc to stock.

what else do i need for over 400 crank hp? how much$$? i have the following:

mac mids
full cat-back
slp cold air
granatelli mafs
crane 1.6rr and lt4 springs
t/b bypass

 

cheapest way is a 100 shot of NOS. Next cheapest LE2 Package, Or last but not least a Super charger.

 

You need heads and a short duration cam to keep the idle and sound like stock.

Jake

 

100-120 shot and a madz28 tune.

 

Remove: EGR, Air pump, TB warmer and block off holes; add chrome breather
-about $10.00 at Pep Boys, gut converter or replace it with a larger diameter higher capacity one. Remove sun visors, jack, spare, rear shelf, junk in trunk, and any excess weight you find
Add: dyno-tune $300+,
LT 4 knock sensor on CPU
52 mm throttle body ~ used one
under drive AL pulley ~ used one
AL drive shaft ~ used, find on this forum
change fuel filter
replace: crank case oil, Tranny and rear end fluids(include GM special 8 oz fluid) with synthetic ~ Mobil One
Clean air filter
buy Sticky -i. e. Nitto, radial, rear tires ~ 200 threadware rating
extra remove heads, install bigger, lighter LT4 valves or the equivelent with 3 angle valve job and hand porting with mirror polished exhaust ports or simply find some here with the work already done...use thin gaskets and 93 octane gas $1200 + labor

 

x2, finish with the bolt ons than heads and cam.

 

thanks for the suggestions. i thought i read on here some years back that 52mm t/b does not add any hp? is this true? also the under AL pulley. does it affect performance of electronics?

 

Correct... No real gain vs price...



Just do heads cam and be done...

 

You're not going to gain much in the way of HP, or reduce a lot of weight by eliminating the EGR and AIR - they don't even operate at WOT. Breather does nothing but allow unmetered air to enter the combustion process, opens up the closed PCV system. There's no such thing as an LT4 knock sensor (he meant LT4 knock module). Gutted cat sounds like crap and gains little.

U/D pulley is worth less than 1HP and can leave you with poor charging at idle.

52mm TB, when combined with 1.6X full roller rockers will do more for you, partuclarly when you add the cam.... which you will need to add. But for 400HP at the crank, mild heads and cam is the best route.

 

No head work is required for 400 at the crank. Longtube headers, y-pipe, catback, CAI, dyno tune, tb, 1.6rr's and a small cam will put you there.

 

You can do it without head work, but its easier with. Look at the Lloyd Elliott "Budget Head", with cam. That would put it right about 400HP at the crank.

http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html

 

First go back to the stock MAF and add a CAI. With that and the mods you have now some LE heads or AI 190cc heads with a street cam with what you have now would do the trick. After you have the heads or cam slap a 52mm TB on there and get it dyno tuned. You would then most certainly be over the 400 fwhp mark. For money reasons you could go with the stock TB and mail order tune until you get the cash for a TB and dyno. With a good set of DR and learning how to launch without bogging you would not have a problem with other 400hp cars at all. Especially if they are on street tires.

 

thanks fred. is a supercharger a cheaper option than mild heads and cam?

 

i have a slp cai. i've heard some say the granatelli is better than stock and some say it does nothing. i've had it for 6 years now and no issues

what will le or ai 190 cc heads and street cam plus dyno tune cost? is it better to have my existing heads ported and just buy a cam separately?

 

a supercharger is going to be more $ than heads and cam, less reliable and much beter chance of blowing up the motor.

Give LE a call and see what he suggests. I would think a Le1 setup would suit your needs.