Link

It says the metal for balancing is extra. I'm not sure how much that would be though. But heck. Get my LE2 H/C setup I had planned, swap over all my accessories, intake, new pan, etc. and I'd be all set. Anything else I'd need? I planned on spending around that much for my forged 355 bottom end rebuild this winter.

 

Those are just rotating assemblies.

 

I realize that. But in my situation that's all I have left that will be untouched. I was going to be pulling the top end off this winter and having Lloyd do his magic. Then I figured if I'm gonna do that, might as well freshen up the 120k bottom end while I'm at it. Summit has a forged rebuild kit for around $500 bucks that can be purchased .030 at no extra cost. So I was gonna just rebuild into a 355(actually buy another block to rebuild and have it done before removal of anything under the hood). Then just swap everything from my block over to the new one after the H/C were taken care of to minimize downtime. I figured after all the machine work and the price of the rebuild I'd be in it for a little over a grand and my time. With picking up one of these rotating assemblies I'd be essentially getting the same result as as my current idea, just already be finished when I got it. And also with some better internal parts too. I was going to be reusing my stock crank, and I know the pistons and rods aren't as good of quality as the rebuild kit. Similar in price and it'd be a 383 vs 355. I can always use more torque. That's I guess what I was asking.

 

Ummm.. Like was said, that's just a shortblock rotating assembly. IE NO BLOCK. There will be nothing to swap over to unless you buy another core (200+ bucks from the junkyard), have it machined and clearenced for the stroker crank/rod combo, add rings (I didn't see em listed there) for another 100 bucks, your gonna need an oil pump in the new block, etc, etc.

Good freakin luck on getting by on a grand for all that (parts and machine work). Simply aint gonna happen my friend. More like close to a grand for the machine work ALONE, then assemble it (do you have the proper tools to check your clearences, torque, bolt angles? How about installing the pistons? Are those KB's press fit pins, or floating?

Sorry man, I just don't think your gonna get there on that small of a budget. Don't cheap out on the machine work either. It's the difference between it lasting two days or lasting two years. Oh, and NEVER EVER trust that what you get from the machine shop (or the manufacturer) is accurately machined. Rarely if ever have I seen something come back that didn't need to be tweeked. (exception was a CNC'ed bowtie block - It was dead nuts right outta the box)...

Good luck with it. Hope you meet your goals. 383's are a little trying in the patience department to get tuned right, but they run like a raped ape when you get it right

Dave C.

 

The 383 will be wrong for the LE2 package unless it was made to work with that many cubes, probably better off with a polished stock crank, Forged pistons and some nice light forged rods (Scat I's, Eagle Featherweight H's etc...)

Dave's advice is very good!, I have to agree on the CNC Bowties they are perfect out of the box, bore/hone/zero deck and throw cam bearings in them and they are good to go. Some manufactures are pretty good on things too like Mahle, and about 95% of the Eagle rods I see are dead nuts too, they do a good job for the money but for the most part perfect parts cost lots of money.

Bret

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me guys. For some reason I was thinking rotating assembly meant all the rotating parts AND the block assembled. That's where my confusion was. Also as far as all the machining goes, the reason I was being low on prices is I can get a good deal on everything. I work for a University that has automotive performance engineering. They have all the tools, machines, and skills needed for any work I would want. Without having the skill myself I'd just need to front the cash for most of the stuff. They do it for free if you want to wait forever and have it be a learning process for the students. Since I want neither. The instructer said he would do it for me but at a limited price. Basically something that would normally cost $100 bucks at a machine shop will cost me $20. Given the information you guys gave me and learning that the LE2 package isn't really made for a 383 I'll go with my original idea. Probably will be cheaper anyway. Thanks again. Any more info or ideas please feel free.