I went to the track and my clutch was slipping from the very beginning. if you rev it up and gently release the clutch so the tires dont break loose and go WOT until the clutch is full disengaged, the clutch will slip. To test my theory i tried dumping the clutch at 6 grand with ET drags on the car and its definetely the clutch spinning , I was definetely dissapointed to find a 2.2 sixty on that run... LOL.

What clutch should I get? My rivets on my clutch are now grinding my flywheel so I need to buy one ASAP!!!

 

whatever you do GET A SPEC CLUTCH!! for u i would prolly get a stage 3 or 4! its better to have TOO much of a clutch rather than TOO LITTLE TRUST ME!!!

 

On the other side of it I would recommend a Mcleod SINGLE 7,200rpm disc....
I have one and it has over 40+ 3,500rpm dumps on Nittos not to mention a ton of street beatings and daily driving with 4,000 miles on it now. As much as I abuse the clutch I am extreamly happy with !!!!
Also at the track on Friday I was witness to a Spec stage 3 carbon clutch disc with only 800 miles on it go BYE-BYE on its first 3,000 rpm dump in the WATER BOX...
Many people have good luck with Spec products but many more have problems.

All in all Mcleod makes a better product IMHO.. Do a search and see how many complaits you find on Mcleod single disc set ups.

Later,
Jason Coffman

 

thats why i personally went with the stage 5 setup as to make sure it will NEVER break... like i said i would go with a stage 3 or 4 setup! but would lean more towards the stage 4! mclouds are good but why spend all that money when u dont have to

 

I've heard both good and bad about spec so im kinda worried. How much power would a spec 4 hold?

Would a spec 4 really be that hard to drive on the street? I would call myself a really good stick driver, I have a total of 30 lifetime minutes driving an automatic How long will this spec 4 last?

 

I have a Stage III ceramic, and let me tell you I wouldn't get a stage IV if you plan on driving the car daily. Stage III's are on the edge of streetability in stop and go traffic. Personally if I was in your shoes it would be down to 2 choices:

1. SPEC Stage III Ceramic
OR
2. McLeod Street Twin

If you got the $$$ get the street twin. If you don't got the money save up for a little longer! Trust me, after you blow out the new clutch and have to buy another you will be wishing you bought the street twin. Do it once, and do it right. Take my advice, my
T-56 has been out of my car 9 times in the last year

 

My recommendation is to bite the bullet and get a Mcleod Street Twin. Yeah it is expensive but it will take all the abuse you can give to it.

 

Just a note:

Mcleod makes more than a street twin. I run the single disc 7,200rpm pad witch is organic material in the PP side and kevlar on the flywheel side. Im am willing to bet its every bit a strong a stage 3 spec and its more dependable and cheaper!!
The twin disc is a little much for a stock drivetrain but not too bad.

 

firepheasent, just curious, how much power are you putting threw your mcleod with the single disc i have the same set-up as you sitting right here, i m still worried about it not being able to hold, i actually cracked my frist single disc with alot less power then my new motor + turbo should put out, i heard they are rated at 600 h.p. and i believe 600 ft lbs of TQ but don t quote me on that. thanks

 

If u get to much clutch it will be worse than the slipping clutch in my opion. If u get one of those hard grabing clutches it will knock the breath out or your engine which will make it bog off the line. You need the clutch to give a little. You dont want to stop the tires when you drop the clutch. Ever seen some ppl run good when they spun like a foot and bad when they hooked? there my thoughts on it.