I've been having no luck after my heads/cam/pcm/harness swap. I probably should've NOT done the harness and pcm at the same time. I'm eagor to get this thing running, but am having running problems. Hopefully you guys can help me out, I'm mentally exhausted.

Anyhow, I've been testing and testing, but no luck. Of course I have fuel and spark because she starts up... but for only 3 to 5 secs...

I'm thinking the PCM is cutting out the fuel for some reason, but if so-would the PCM re-prime the pump while the key was never turned off?

As I understand, upon "key-on", the PCM primes the pump for about 5 seconds through the relay, then after start up the relay is powered by a 15 amp power source while the car is in the "run" position. So initially I thought maybe I had a bad feedline wire or bad ground, nope they checked out good.

Some other things I've tested and found out:

Fuel pump relay clicks when energized by the PCM, but there is no power to the feedline to the pump when it runs. Yes there is continuity from the relay to the feedline.

Ran a power wire to the feedline for the fuel pump, still no go. Tried the jumper wire also. This is why I believe the PCM is cutting off the fuel. I have datalogs from Datamaster if anyone cars to view them. I can see the injector BPW drop to 0. CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD The log is composed of about 5 tries of getting it to run... it dies quick.

I did have Code42, but since then I have taken care of it by buying a new ICM. I also disabled VATS and MAF as precautions and am running a 306 base tune for the time being. I'm just about out of ideas guys...I've did everything correct for the harness/pcm swap by following Madwolfs way and by Shoebox's wiring schematics... Did a hundred searches etc... you name it, I probably tired it. If not, then give me some suggestions.

Thanks.

 

Why would you buy an ICM just for a 42? That codes indicates there is either a short or open on the IC circuit on the white wire. The easiest thing to do is probe the connector with it disconnected at the ICM on the white wire. Set the voltmeter to AC and have someone crank it over. You should read between 1 and 4 volts on that scale. If it's there, plug it in and try it again. If it then goes away, measure resistance from the B terminal of the ICM to the C terminal.

As far as your fuel pump is concerned. First you didn't say so but I assume you have an OBDI vehicle. Have you traced the grey wire from the fuel pump relay to the connector in front of the axle? An ohm meter, a buddy and another long piece of wire will make it a quick task. The same pin A1 at the connector in front of the axle will go upto the fuel pump prime connector. Ohm that also.

Now for the relay control signal that comes in on the dark green/ white wire from the PCM. This signal comes from the PCM at the RED connector pin 7 (dr green/white wire). Then it goes through connector C220 which is a white 10 pin connector located in the right kick panel. From there it goes over to the relay at the driver dead pedal.

You will want to ohm those connections while you wiggle the wires and also check the wire to ground as you wiggle it.

Last, put your volt meter on pin a1 and a3 at the connector located in front of the axle. See that the 12 volts is there or not when the engine acts up.

 

Thanks for the reply Slopok, I did a search on code42 and read your good post about fixing the code42 error.

I did the continuity and ground check for the ICM, I probably sould try the voltage check while cranking.

But the Code is gone after buying the ICM. I didn't really think it would make it run, but I was so fed up that I would've tried anything. But the code is gone. No more DTC42, so what is really the problem?

Have you viewed the log I posted?

 

I wasn't able to view it with limited software here at home. So have you checked the voltage at the fuel pump connector in front of the axle yet?

 

No, I haven't. But I don't think it would be bad because the pump does prime up when keyed on.

The PCM has to be shutting down the fuel because I can jump the power to the pump and make it run on demand. The car will still die out. So this leaves me to believe the PCM is cutting it off at the injectors.

Yeah, the log shows Inj BPWs go WAY LOW to 0.

Anyhow, let me know what you think, thanks again man.

 

Do you have a noid light?

 

No noid ATM, but could probably unplug and use the multimeter?

 

A meter can't respond fast enough to the pulses. It would helpful to see if the pulses are there. Are you having a problem restarting also or does always restart and then shut down?

 

ok, the cars starts and dies?

does it stay running if you jump the fuel pump prime connector?

 

IT Restarts fine... and then shuts down again.

I can't jump through the connector, it seems like it's grounded somewhere because I get a little smoking and a spark....

But I can jump it from under the dash, BUT IT STILL WONT STAY RUNNING. I strongly thinkg it's the PCM and not the pump....

 

BRB, don't go anywhere.

 

Not going anywhere for a while

Now I followed the connector schematics found HERE

There are only about 3 wires what are different from the 94 PCM harness to the remaining 93 harness that is inside, under the dash.

C100: (D) 93-Tan Serial Data Signal -> 94-Traction Control Active

C210: (D) 93-EMPTY -> 94-Grey Feed from fuel pump and fuel pump relay

C220: (E) 93-Clutch Anticipation Signal -> 94-TPS Signal (EBTCM)
C220: (F) 93-Fuel Pump Motor Feed -> 94-Serial Data Feed

That what the charts says, so for the fuel pump fix, I ran it like this:
C220(93 Int. Side): (F) 93-Fuel Pump Motor Feed to C210(94 PCM Side): (D)94-Grey Feed from fuel pump and fuel pump relay.

Does that make any sense?

 

Before we go to all the trouble of tracking down wiring for the fuel pump, would you check the voltage at the connector in front of the axle to see if 12 volts remains there even though the car shuts down. Jack up the car, remove the left rear tire and you can get to easy. If it does, we don't have to go to the trouble of figuring out wiring and we can go on to something else.

Post back when you are done and I'll give you my phone number here in Virginia.

OK?

 

Ok one question first, sorry for being a PIA, but this connector is for the fuel pump power, right? Wouldn't we already know that it's good since I can HEAR the pump kicking on everytime I key the car 'on'?

 

If you didn't have some question about the fuel pump wiring, then why did you post all this above??????

Second, I'm not going to spend time figuring out something only to later discover that something that was previously "supposed" to be, actually wasn't. Unless you know for sure that the fuel pressure is remaining "high" after the engine shuts down, you should check to be sure the voltage is still at the pump.

Third, either you have not found the problem yet or you have "assumed" right over it. I don't know which.

Fourth, you changed wiring and see "smoke" and sparks when you do certain things. It's best to start over and not assume anything.