In the future the cam will be joined with some AFR heads... But in the mean time, it will be running in the stock motor.

CC306? I know that cam is really popular. What cam should I use? What type of power gain should I expect when installed in an otherwise internally stock motor? My only mods as of now are CAI, and complete exhaust.

 

With an auto your gonna need gears and a high stall converter for that cam to work. Also remember when doing the cam the rest of the valvetrain needs to be upgraded. The list of parts gets quite long and the $$ add up in a hurry. I'll start the list for ya

gears 3.73, TA girdle, stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, guideplates, 7/16" rocker studs, timing chain and gears, valvesprings, cam, computer tune, gaskets,

The other option is to complete the bolt ons now and do the heads cam later. Do the gears, roller rockers, underdrive pulley, electric waterpump now and some suspension work to put the power to the pavement.

 

Damnit, I want to have the cam to round out the full exhaust.

I don't really ever have the desire to change gears, I plan on keeping the 3.23s. I enjoy being able to accelerate through the full speed range and don't want my car to be good for the quarter and not much else. I had planned on doing the stall when the heads came around though.

The suspension is just about in the state I want it to be in. Again this goes back to me not wanting drag springs with sway bars removed, if that's what you're making reference to.

 

So would I really have to run 3.73 gears just because of a cam?

 

If you have a cam that wants rpms, a stall that flashes high, and numerically low gears... it doesn't quite match up. Not the end of the world, certainly driveable, but it's not quite there.

The issue I had was with the XE 503, a 2400 stall and 2.73's. Not the most exotic setup, I know, but here's what was happening: From a dead stop, run up the rpms to where the stall was ready to rock, let off the brakes, more gas, and - it'd bog. Those gears were just too tall on hard launches. Switched to 3.73's and damn! A decently hard launch without smoking the tires was about like getting rear ended by a dump truck. The car suddenly felt invicible off the line

This all boils down to looking at the big picture. Set the car up focusing on the whole package vice just the cam or just the gears. With stock heads, you're not going to be able to make the most of a large cam, so why pick one that puts the power band where it's not supported? Just my opninion, of course. But I'd go with a 503/502/305/HC or something else in that group of mid-range power cams. One of them along with a good stall, shift kit, tune, and 3.42's (good compromise on launch and highway rpms) and you should have a great all around combo until you get into the heads.

 

Well yeah I wasn't planning for an incredibly high stall, something more appropriate for 3.23s is what I want.

And the same goes for the cam. Suggestions for a cam are appreciated... I just threw a 306 out there to start things in motion.

 

It would help if I actually read your entire post


I guess I wouldn't be opposed to 3.42s... But I really like the 3.23s as is. It has some very good 'hot spots' in the speed range for some really nice, powerful kick downs - even while at highway speeds.

I used to drive a muscle car with 4.11s. :blah: Not too fond of only being able to go fast when I come to a stop first.

 

I think 3.23's will probably be ok. Once you get the cam & stall sorted out, there's nothing saying you have to get gears at the same time. If it feels ok to you with 3.23's, you're good to go!

 

3.42s are a great gear for an A4...Plenty of low end with the 3.06 first gear of the 4L60E...I ran that gear and a fairly small LPE 211/219 .533/.560 cam thru LPE shorties in my 383 with a Vig 3600 for almost 10 years running high 11s at 115 and having a blast on the street. Had the car to 145 once and boy was that a rush...That set up was a great all around daily driving combo...24-25 mpg on the highway and zero drivability issues...plus I passed MDs strict emissions..

--Alan

 

Gotta remember 383 and 350 won't act the same

 

Okay, so lets say for the sake of discussion I go with the LE1 package...

What rockers, valves, other parts, etc would I need?

And keeping the 3.23s, what stall? Is there a 2400 or 2600 that would be appropriate for those gears?

 

I say go for the 306. Lots of guys running great times with that cam. Sure 4:10's and a high stall are recomended, but aren't nessesary with a good tune IMO.

 

If you decide to go through Lloyd, he'll help you out with choosing rockers, stall, etc to make sure you get the right combination to make the most of his cam & heads.

 

First figure out how high you want to rev and what kind of drivibility you want.

The CC306 will spin over 6k with ease and you'll give up some drivibility, but its a mean and nasty cam. You can keep the 3.23's but youll probably have to go a bit higher in stall size. I honestly love my 3.73's with my A4. The CC306 would like a 3000rpm stall. Fuddle is selling some sweet converters on the board for $350, I'm getting one of those ASAP.

The LE1 cam is going to be smaller, kinda like a CC305 or LT4 Hotcam size and drivibility. But with that kit your getting into a much more expensive adventure. You'll still need a decent stall perhaps 2800 would do, you probably would be fine with 3.23's. Its revving lower with more low end grunt.

Personally I love the CC306 and what I have seen it done. I'd really like to get a LE2 kit, but money being an issue I'll probably say to hell with it, do the Fuddle Converter and a CC306. Then later some LE heads.

I'd recommend getting some 1.6 Pro Mags and 918 springs if your going with the CC306. I buy my parts a little at a time, so that helps. I already have my Pro Mags, guideplates, pushrods, and studs in the car, now all I need is the cam and springs to match. Helps keep the cost down.

-Dustin-