What bolt ons first?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,907
From: The Wild West
Re: What bolt ons first?
Mid 13's can be had relatively easy on these cars. Some headers, catback, CAI could do it. The more you have the easier it would be. I'd say do CAI, catback, Madwolf tune, and headers first, then 1.6 RR, E-WP, or ASP Pulley if you need more.
-Dustin-
-Dustin-
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,388
From: Moore Oklahoma
Re: What bolt ons first?
I was in the mid and low 13s with my 97 LT1, but that just wasn't enough! So, I installed the LT4 Hot Cam, new timing chain/gears (already had the 1.6 RRs and LT4 springs installed) and had Bryan at PCMforLess program my PCM. One easy step (cam and programming) and I'm running 12.70s now!
1997 Silver Z/28 LT1-Auto
w/ 30 th Anniversary navy blue stripes and Chrome ZR1 wheels
Kooks Long-Tubes w/ Off-Road Y-Pipe and 3" Cut-Out (no Cats)
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, LT4 Hot Cam & Valve Springs, MSD Coil and Plug Wires, K&N Air Intake, PCMforLess Performance Program, Aeromotive Fuel Regulator, Aluminum Driveshaft, Holley 58 mm TB, 3.73 Gears, TCI 2600 Stall, MT ET Drag Slicks, minor weight reduction and a few undisclosed upgrades.
1997 Silver Z/28 LT1-Auto
w/ 30 th Anniversary navy blue stripes and Chrome ZR1 wheels
Kooks Long-Tubes w/ Off-Road Y-Pipe and 3" Cut-Out (no Cats)
Crane 1.6 Roller Rockers, LT4 Hot Cam & Valve Springs, MSD Coil and Plug Wires, K&N Air Intake, PCMforLess Performance Program, Aeromotive Fuel Regulator, Aluminum Driveshaft, Holley 58 mm TB, 3.73 Gears, TCI 2600 Stall, MT ET Drag Slicks, minor weight reduction and a few undisclosed upgrades.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 88
From: Augusta, GA
Re: What bolt ons first?
Originally Posted by RedLT4Mike
...famous last words of all noobs.
I say, gears, stall, long tubes, drag radials.
I say, gears, stall, long tubes, drag radials.
I know what you mean, but a mid 13 second street car is what I want right now. I have other money consuming hobbies such as guns and motorcycles, so 12's are out of the picture for a while.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,907
From: The Wild West
Re: What bolt ons first?
Catback might not even need to be done since you have a muffler. You can get good headers for under $500 coated. Used for even less. CAI for $150 and your looking at mid 13's for way under $1k.
-Dustin-
-Dustin-
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 298
From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: What bolt ons first?
Originally Posted by LameRandomName
I'm going to go against the grain here...
Start with 3.73's, a posi unit and new inner/outer bearings; plus a T/A cast cover with the pre-load bolts.
Also, add a good quality converter, such as an Edge.
Finally, add an LT4 knock module, a 160 thermostat and a custom tune from someone like pcmforless.
Oh, and tires of course. Any decent set will do if you are drag racing; because you'll need to get a set of track tires anyway. Real slicks or DOT slicks... it's up to you.
If you like the road race stuff then get yourself those relatively new Nitto NT01's and keep your stock converter.
Finally, get yourself some lighter aluminum wheels. Centerline has some fairly affordable stuff. And try to stay small. No "dubs" I mean. Too much weight. The smaller the wheel diameter, the lighter the weight.
Dead weight is worth 1/10th of a second in the quarter for every hundred pounds, but rotational weight in your wheels is worth three times that much.
And yes...
I've seen that rule of thumb borne out in real life.
Don't start doing any engine related mods, including exhaust; until you are fairly sure you know what you want to do with your engine. BTW... There's nothing wrong with a properly designed single exhaust. The key is; "proper design". You want to be sure you have the CFM flow you need.
Start with 3.73's, a posi unit and new inner/outer bearings; plus a T/A cast cover with the pre-load bolts.
Also, add a good quality converter, such as an Edge.
Finally, add an LT4 knock module, a 160 thermostat and a custom tune from someone like pcmforless.
Oh, and tires of course. Any decent set will do if you are drag racing; because you'll need to get a set of track tires anyway. Real slicks or DOT slicks... it's up to you.
If you like the road race stuff then get yourself those relatively new Nitto NT01's and keep your stock converter.
Finally, get yourself some lighter aluminum wheels. Centerline has some fairly affordable stuff. And try to stay small. No "dubs" I mean. Too much weight. The smaller the wheel diameter, the lighter the weight.
Dead weight is worth 1/10th of a second in the quarter for every hundred pounds, but rotational weight in your wheels is worth three times that much.
And yes...
I've seen that rule of thumb borne out in real life.
Don't start doing any engine related mods, including exhaust; until you are fairly sure you know what you want to do with your engine. BTW... There's nothing wrong with a properly designed single exhaust. The key is; "proper design". You want to be sure you have the CFM flow you need.
the 3.73's with a kit is a good idea, but
1. the LT4 KM is pointless without the other mods, its useless to buy first
2. Id worry about catching traction after I put enough power down..
3. Why spend all that money on new rims when the stock ones do fine for now??
4. Chances are he's not going to do anything drastic enough to his LT1 to make the the parts unusable that he puts on..So yeah headers, cai, free mods, ect are primary first mods IMO
so yeah...carry on
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 376
From: Augusta, Maine
Re: What bolt ons first?
LOL its funny when you have similar cars you have similar intrests. I have a 2K Suzuki GSXR1300 Hayabusa and I am getting ready for hunting season as well .300 Mag Browning BAR 3x9 Leupold scope with a boss system on the barrell. Just bought a .45 to for fun shooting and I am looking for an AR15 Bushmaster or other .223 they look cool and my daughter can shoot one without to much recoil. Yamaha RX1 and Skidoo MXZ snowmobiles and a Polaris Sportsman 700 4 wheeler
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