stock intake, TB, injectors, no cut out, mail order tune- 390/390.

ported intake, 58 TB, larger injectors, cut out, dyno tune- 420/420.

The dyno tune would also let you know of a problem with KR, fuel pressure, A/F, etc.

these are my dyno # "guesses".

A 236-242 on a 110 would possibly dyno better N/A.

As mentioned, I have not seen much more out of the 383's than the 350's at peak (10-15 more HP) but the torque is higher and they usually have flatter HP and TQ graph's.

NightTrain66

 

Your torque should be solid into the 400's I guess your HP depends on how well those heads flow beyond 6000.

 

I'll say 430 RWHP and 425 RWTQ. Curious though, are his heads that bad? I've heard Lloyd does good work, and the numbers seem to be pretty decent, and I thought his bench was more "truthful" than some of the others like GTP. GMHTP's 396 with CNC heads made ~ 420 when they first built it, and I thought those heads were pretty blah. I can't remember flow numbers though. It also had a CC305 in it. Also, isn't there a guy here with a 383 and some decent heads making 450 RWHP? What kind of flow do you need on a 23* head to make 450? If 400 is attainable with 350 CID, and you have 383, which you can then make the cam bigger without much drama, wouldn't an extra 50 RWHP be easily attainable?

 

And the torque curve is where it's at.

If you have 20 lbs-ft more torque every time you shift your car then you can bet your bottom dollar that it's gonna accelerate quicker. There's a bit of danger in just looking at peak numbers when making comparisons. The fastest cars are hardly ever the ones with the most peak hp.... they usually have the highest average torque in the revs where they race and everything is geared to work to that end. Race car, street car, it's all the same in that regard.

WRT to Lloyd's work. Don't take what I said the wrong way. I'm just talking to talk but it does bring up a question that's been stirring in my head every since I starting reading this bulletin board.
Either the guys making the most aint talking (and that's a good possibility) or there's a common problem. I just addressed what I believe it to be... that doesn't mean I'm anywhere near being right though.

and where's that Trey at?

-Mindgame

 

hey MG,

Did you see my questions on the previous page?

Thanks man!

 

Nope, not really. There are a number of places that hook me up at cost, cheaper than that stroker GP- significantly. A for effort on the investigation though



I can say YOU CANT EXPECT till you turn blue in the face. I never said a top ranked professional with a billion years of expierence cant.

And I am willing to bet he could go faster NA or bottle if he only aimed to do one or the other, not both. You cant tell me that it is 100% optimized for both nitrous and NA. Are you going to prove me wrong in saying that there is SOMETHING he could do that would make him faster on the bottle alone, but may hurt him NA?



]

Good, I'm glad you dont have feelings or an ego. I'd hate to hurt either

Everyones vehicle seems to be compared to yours, yet you forget that you have more money in the heads than most of our powertrains are worth

Yes, you are a better engine builder than I. SUPRISE! Heres more startling information- the world is round, moon is not made of cheese and there is no such thing as the easter bunny.

Now that captain obvious has spoken, can I ask why you brought that point up? You dont see me telling you i could take you out to a wrestling tournament and beat you by tech fall using only 1 or 2 moves- both being throws











Trey has been recovering from a night of light drinking and throwing white castle at moving vehicles and his best friends white they are in swin/beer chugging race

yeah sure, you can build an engine, but whens the last time you threw a white castle burger at a moving vehicle out of a wrangler going 45 and nailed the car with the "stickey" side of the burger- twice in a row. thats consistancy!

kinda crazy, leave michigan and suddently i have no time for anything, and i'm not even working! I guess NY has a bit more to offer...

 

Take this bull**** to email. Guess, answer questions, but dont start flame wars. If thats all you are gonna do in here, get out.

I value your opinions, but im looking for answers here, not cockfights.

 

Well, let me see.... yep, that will do it. I buy stainless screen, cut to size and epoxy in place but this will do the same. Magnets are nice too. Check with McMaster Carr (search).... you can buy all types of donut-shape magnets from them. Great for drainback holes.



Like I said in the other thread. The cam you're choosing is fine. I'd expect your hp peak at close to 6k. I would go to a 236/244 grind on a 112 lsa but that's just my choice.

About 1/16th of an inch will allow for some mis-match upon assembly. If you know how to check port alignment, for a max effort build, you should be able to get the match just right. I wouldn't lose sleep over a more conservative approach though.

This has been discussed time and time again. IMO and based on my experience, a larger throttle body is better than one that is too small. Too small means that you are giving up power to a restriction. In a fuel injected engine, that's about all it amounts to because the throttle does not control the fuel atomization. Even with carbs, it's a matter of shear and signal. If you can get that right, a bigger carb (within reason) will usually produce the best power. A fuelie motor breathes the same way so the concept carries over.

And I understand that this is your thread but after those comments from Trey I don't think it'd be such a good idea for him to e-mail me. No intention of starting a flame war with the burger bandit. Most of what I said was nothing more than "ribbing" but I can see that through that a few things were said that the kid's been holding back. So be it.
And I'm still waiting on those "high horsing" threads or the ones where I seemed to compare everyone elses stuff to mine.
Maybe you know the threads which he is refering?

-Mindgame

 

 

$30-50

 

In regards to head/ intake matching, an exact match is best, but Just remember that its better to have a smaller passage open up to a bigger one, than a bigger passage that tries to go into a smaller one. If you make the intake ports bigger than the head ports you are gonna have air running into itself in there.

I've put on 3 58MM TBs and never had one leak. But I guess there is a chance of failure with every mod.

 

ttt espeically for MG. Really interested in seeing about the bigger cam, how the powerband would be.

 

1) You epoxy the screens over the return holes and place the magnets near the drains to catch any smaller particles.

2) In my opinion yes... that would be a good dual purpose cam even at your altitude and considering your static compression. If I were going n/a only, I'd use a 110 lsa and use a bit less exhaust duration.
The torque should be flat and strong from 3k on up. Peak power at ~6000.

3) No, a little mis-match won't make much difference one way or the other. As was said, having the intake port (intake manifold) smaller than the runner opening in the head is ok. I wouldn't go enlarging the port entry... too much area change along the port path isn't a good thing as it causes loss of charge momentum.

4) 54mm is a good call and going 58 will likely show no loss and perhaps no gain either. The higher your engine revs, the more it's gonna matter.

I don't care for bragging... although it doesn't seem to matter one way or the other round here cause you're gonna get called an "egoist" or something either way you go.

What's the difference between the know-it-all and the guy who calls him a know-it-all?

The know-it-all knows that 2+2=4, the other guy doesn't.

-Mindgame

 

So, the magnets are epoxyed on IN the lifter valley near the drain holes correct?

so a 236/low 240s on a 112 lsa would be the best bet? what are my options here? i cant afford a new custom cam so i gotta go with off the shelf lobes, preferrably the XE grind. When i look at http://www.cmotorsports.com/lt1customcamshafts.htm

i see that the only 236 lobe with lift that would work with my springs (.600 bind) is a .555 lift lobe. then they have a 242 with either 587 or 576 lift. what should i choose here? dont i want a bigger seperation with the nitrous or will it matter that much with the large duration cam?

also, does a cam peak at a lesser rpm in a bigger displacement motor all other factors the same?

on the intake porting, all i am doing is grinding out the tb holes a bit, and making the runner almost as big as the gasket? and dont touch the heads?

Thanks a bunch!

 

Correct, you want to place them strategically.... near oil drainback holes. Look at your drainback holes in the cylinder head and that should give you an idea on the direction of oil flow.



In my opinion, a street engine which sees much more n/a performance time, should be biased towards making n/a power... hence a 112 or 113º lsa would be ideal. The best nitrous cams out there usually have about 10º more exhaust duration. With the greater volume of exhaust gas, the extra duration is a necessary trade-off. I'd look for something with ~236/244 236/246.... .55-.58 lift.

Correct again.

Correct. Lloyd put alot of time and effort into your heads. The last thing you want to do is alter anything in that port.

No problem.

-Mindgame