Ok, so I figured out that my SES light blew out in my car so I just took it to Advance to have them scan it and see what codes the engine would put out. So, after all this trouble I've been through and money spent, they printed out my problems for free.

Anyway, here's what I got:

Code 11 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Circuit Problem

Code 22 - TPS Signal Voltage is too low

Code 29 - Output Driver Module Fault

Code 34 - MAP Sensor signal voltage is too low


Ok, I searched for all of these before I made a post about it. I'm figuring the code 11 is my blown SES bulb. What type of bulb would I have to buy for that? Code 29 is the blown AIR fuse, and it blew in under a day from the last time it was replaced, any suggestions on that?

I've been told by the dealership that codes 22 and 34 are related. I'm not sure on what to do on these. Can I buy a voltmeter and test the wires by cutting a little bit of insulation off or can I just check the metal part that plugs into the sensors? What kind of readings would I be looking for on these and is there any kind of certain voltmeter I should buy or just any from Advance?

 

Unplug the harness from the AIR pump and replace the fuse and see if it blows again. Take you TPS out and clean it and clean the connector and reinstall. MAP could mean a vacuum leak, bad sensor, or bad connection. Try that and see how it works out.

 

I'd like to get the voltage numbers from someone on here for what I should get. Is it even worth buying a voltmeter to read the current?

I checked the connector to the MAP sensor because I read on here that it crumbles over time and it seemed pretty stiff.

 

One more thing, I was looking through threads on here and one other guy had the same TPS and MAP codes as I did and he said he replaced the TPS and it fixed both. Any chance I can do that? Cause if I can I'll take back the MAP sensor I bought and get that money back.

The dealership replaced the fuse yesterday and it's already busted today for that code 29.

 

You should always check the codes against Shoebox's list of LT1-specific codes. The description they gave you for DTC 29 is actually for a 93, with the quad driver modules. As you figured out, and as Shoebox's list would have shown you, its the AIR pump power supply.

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

The AIR pumps rust up and get hard to turn. That draws excessive current and blows the fuse. If its rusted up bad enough, you'd need to find a newer pump in a junk yard (or from someone here who has removed theirs). The alternative is to leave the connector disconnected, and replace the fuse. The AIR pump won't work, but the code can be cleared.

DTC 34 sets when the PCM sees the MAP voltage so low that it indicates a vacuum higher than the engine can possibly pull (MAP less than 14kPa = vacuum greater than 28"Hg). Its not caused by a vacuum leak.... that would be DTC 33. When you get a MAP reading that low, its probably a faulty sensor or screwed up wiring/connector. For a stock cam you will normaly see a MAP reading of 9.5-10"Hg = 35kPa = 1.4V at idle. Your code is set because the voltage is below about 0.4V. Measure from the green signal wire to the black ground wire. When you turn the key on but don't start the engine, you should see 5.0V across the green-black wires. That represents barometric pressure. If you are above sea level, the voltage will be less, as low as 4.4V at 6,000ft altitude.

DTC 22 sets when the TPS voltage is below 0.20V for more than 3 seconds. It's easy to check the TPS sensor, blue signal wire to black ground wire should be between 0.20-0.90V at fully closed throttle, and about 4V higher than the closed throttle voltage when the throttle is wide open. The transition from closed voltage to open voltage should be smooth with no spikes or flat spots.

You need to verify that both sensors are getting +5V from the PCM. That is measured from the gray wire to the black wire.

 

Ok, I just checked the wires by touching the multimeter to the metal prongs in the connector on the MAP sensor. With the key just before starting, I get 4.96V on the black and grey wires, but nothing on the black and green ones. What am I looking at for these numbers?

 

All right, I just checked everything again, here's what I got:

MAP Sensor
Black and Gray - 4.96V
Black and Green - 0V

TPS Sensor
Black and Gray - 4.96V
Black and Blue - 0.02V closed throttle all the way through open throttle

Both are tested through the connectors that plug into the sensors with the key just before starting the engine.

 

So is my problem the sensors or something else? If it is something else, a suggestion would be nice.

 

If the PCM is supplying +5V to the sensors, and your measurements indicate it is, then the sensors are faulty. You should be seeing 1.5V from the MAP sensor and 0.5-4.8V from the TPS sensor signal wires. Or possibly the signal terminal in each harness plug is not making contact or corroded.

If you can put a scanner on it, you could verify your voltmeter readings and confirm the faulty sensors.

 

So my sensors are faulty even though the connector wasn't even connected to them when I took the readings? I figured it was the wiring since I got 0 for the black and green wires on the MAP, and 0.02 on the black and blue ones. If I tested the wires themselves instead of the connectors would it help? I don't understand how it could be the sensors if I just unplugged the connector that went into them and tested that without it being connected to the sensor.

Trust me, I'd love to get a scanner, but I'm currently out of work from the wreck with my last one and until I start working again I can't buy one.