I've read LOTS of posts on here about water pumps recently.

I just bought the following from Summit
1) Meziere electric wp - $217
2) Wiring harness w/ relay - $32
3) Waterpump to block gasket - $2
4) some other gasket??? - $2

Anyway, I'm OK w/ the Removal and installation of the new parts, but am sketchy on the wiring to power/activate the new electric wp..

I did read one site that was linked to from here, but it was LONG winded and looked cumbersome... It was getting "power" from the AIR system (which has already been removed), but had reverse polarity stuff and Red block wires being spliced into etc...

Anyone got simple (and reliable) wiring methodology available?

I haven't looked at the wires for the AIR pump in a couple of years. Do they only get "juice" for the first X minutes of car start, or do they always get power but something else stops the AIR system from doing its thing once the car is warmed up?

I am definitely no guru when it comes to wiring etc...

On a similar wiring related thing I did read a DanielSternLighting site a couple of years back that looked to be doing similar things re. power and relays etc for 100W bulbs in our lame stock lighting locations... Will powering up the eWP be similar to that?

Sorry for the long post.

Thx

JT

 

I would like to see some of that info too. I will be puting mine in shortly. I hate wiring.

 

I wired mine to the 15amp ac fuse. The fuse is in the fuse box under the hood. My hot wire connects to the pink wire running from the 15amp ac fuse and the ground is connected to the ground used for the headlights. You can use any good source of ground. I am running the csr pump and have had it like this for over 10k with no problems.

 

I put in a relay for it. The relay is piggybacked off the fuel pump relay so that it is only running when the engine is running and for a few seconds at prime. That way, if you need to have your key on for something, the pump wont be running all the time. Like when you program the car or do other electrical work. You could always pull the fuse to disable it, but woe is he who forgets to put that fuse back in. You can put another switch from +12V batt if you want to run it in the pits with the car off, but you need a diode in the line so that it doesn't feed back into the fuel pump relay circuit and run the pumps. You could also just rig a simple switch to run the water pump off of the ignition, but that is also an accident waiting to happen.

A couple guys have wired alarm curcuits of a sort to indicate if it is really running or not. There have been a bunch of posts about it. If it quits running for some reason while you are driving the car, you won't believe how fast the temp gauge goes up.

 

Wiring is pretty easy.
Like Kevin said use a relay wired to a 12V source and a good ground.
Use the fuel pump or cooling fan relay circuit as a trigger.
You should have a 20A fuse inline with the pump.

There used to be an excellent writeup on projectransam.com, but it's gone now.
Drop me an email and I'll send you a copy of it.

 

Yeah wiring of the fuel pump jumper is another way that I have heard was easy. (the little small terminal coming off harness on passenger side) http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg

I am not good with wires, but wanted some safety lights as well. I had a discussion about a schematic and did some paintbrush photos in this thread.
I also got the painless universal relay kit for EWP BTW.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=665445

This other thread is my partial walk through that will be updated.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/dynamics/s...p?e=43&catid=2

 

thx guys..

I've got the painless wiring kit, which comes w/ basic instructions.

I'll read thru your posts etc.

Main thing I'm looking for is THE best place to signal the relay to turn on... I'm gonna eyeball some pictures.

thx again

JT

 

Thx to all for their help, specially Dave1908 for the wiring help. With the help of the guys on this site there is NO job I fear when it comes to working on my Z28.

There is lots of info scattered around. These are the steps I took to R&R the leaking mechanical water pump..

1) Remove air inlet to TB.
2)disconnect the 5 hoses attached to the WP... (engine cold, as antifreeze will FLOOOOW)
3) Remove Passenger side fan housing (4 10mm bolts)... squared edge of the hosing is DOWN (You'll need to dremel the top driver's side of the housing off to clear the eWP)
4) Remove the coil and wire to the opti (turns out that the 6th "hidden" bolt holding the WP to the block is actually a stud related to the AIR pump bracket and coil)... I never removed the bracket when I went !AIR.
5) Remove the AIR pump bracket and put in "old parts bucket"
6) Remove the remaining 5 bolts holding the WP to the block. 4 are easy to see. One is behind PS pump pulley... probably grimed up, but accessible w/ pivoting extension and short 14mm socket... all WP bolts and stud are 14mm
7) Remove WP. I found it easier to take it out the bottom.
8) Clean mating surfaces of block and WP housing (razor blades etc)

I disconnected a bunch of electrical connectors doing this so that I wouldn't accidentally break then when bolts "came loose"..

9) Remove the cover on the WP (6 10mm bolts I think?)... DON'T LOOSE THE GASKET that seals the cover to the front of the WP housing
10) Knock the impeller shaft thru the back of the housing... You'll use a punch and a BFH to push it out... HIT FROM THE FRONT of the WP... The side that faced the FRONT of the car. (Impeller falls out once the shaft is out the back.)
11) Flip the WP housing over. Knock the "seal" out of the hole from the BACK of the housing. Seal will fall out the FRONT.
12) Clean the housing up...
13) Put the "freeze plug" into the shaft/seal hole from the FRONT (This blocks the weep hole in the WP housing, and seals the old shaft hole)

I did NOT attach the eWP motor to the housing yet... Tight fit putting it back against the block..

Now you're good to put the WP housing back on the block... (I cleaned the block first tho, as it was a MESS)... Watch out for water etc on the Opti.

14) Put the short WP housing bolt into the housing BEFORE you mate the housing to the block... (Obviously you've got to get the 2 new gaskets in place before putting the housing back on the block... I "tacked" them in place w/ a LITTLE gasket making material... NOT NEAR the antifreeze fluid passages)... This tip from Shoebox, in another thread, probably saves an hour..
15) Loosesly tighten the 5 bolts mating the WP housing to the block
16) Put the coil back on the block... including the stud that will hold the WP housing against the block... DON'T forget the 3 "grounds" attached to the driver side stud of the coil bracket.
17) Tighten the WP housing bolts and 1 stud
18) Time to trim the fan shroud you removed earlier. The FLAT side of the shroud goes to the bottom. BE CAREFUL NOT TO cut thru the shroud to the circular part of the fan blade itself... eyeball it closely first.. Anyway, if you're sitting in the driver's seat, you'll remove the TOP LEFT part of the fan shroud... I kept the shroud circle intact... just removed the part that would interfere w/ the placement of the new eWP.
19) Replace the fan and plug in its wires
20) Put the eWP on the WP housing... REMEMBER the large O-ring we saved when we took the cover off the WP housing earlier. We'll need that, and be CAREFUL w/ it. Make sure it doesn't get pinched etc.. 6 10mm bolts

At this point you can tighten everything up and get all your hoses and electrical connections back in place...

Now for the wiring. (I bought an eWP wiring relay etc from Painless - $32??)

1) Plug in the main wires... that came w/ a nice connector to the eWP wires.

I ran my eWP wires over the top of the eWP motor toward the passenger side.... used zip ties to keep away from fan and drive belt..

2) Ground the thick black wire from the eWP to the ground near the "fusible links"... right near the Steering pump resevoir.
3) Ground the SHORT black wire from the relay to the same ground... I put my relay right there in the gap btn the steering pump resevoir.
4) Connect the "power" wire (thick blue) from the eWP to the thick blue from the relay.
5) Connect the thick red (power) from the relay to the multiple wire side of the "fusible links"...

Now you've got power being routed from the fusible links to the eWP... The relay is grounded... the eWP is grounded... The only thing left to do is "trigger" the power to be routed thru the relay when the necessary...

6) Connect the thin blue wire from the relay to the short stumpy wire protruding from the wiring harness right in front the the PCM box... I used a thin "spade" connection and just plugged that bad boy into the connection... (which is the fuel pump relay)... THX a ton Dave1980.... WRAP THIS JUNCTION W/ SOME TAPE... so that the two wires DO NOT come apart... Once I refilled the antifreeze etc, I disconnected this connection to verify that the "pee hole" in the radiator neck was flowing or not... gave me peace of mind KNOWING that the eWP was working... (although you can hear it when you turn the car to the "on" position... same length of time that the fuel pump turns on for...

7) Tighten up your mess... clean up... and run that bad boy watching the temperature gauge..

Hope this helps... I probably left out some minor BS, but this was the overall gist of the effort.

JT (check the new sig... )