EDIT, there never was an oil pressure sender in use, just a fuel sender that failed (previously recalled by Autometer). Just wanted to let everyone know I was lucky to not have an engine fire last night. I smelled raw gas while driving around at a local park, pulled over and popped the hood and saw gas spewing out of my fuel sending unit.

For all those with Autometer fuel gauges***RECALL NOTICE***
SAFETY RECALL NOTICE
Auto Meter Products, Inc.
"SHORT-SWEEP" FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE AND SENDER

Auto Meter Products, Inc. of Sycamore, Illinois is issuing a product recall for the automotive gauge/instrument commonly known as the "Electronic Short Sweep Fuel Pressure Gauge" (See Model Numbers Below). Auto Meter Products, Inc. has determined a pattern of failure resulting from an sender unit defect in these gauges. In keeping with Auto Meter’s long standing Product Warranty program, a recall of all electronic "short-sweep" fuel pressure gauges and their respective sender is now necessary.

THE GAUGES/SENDER SUBJECT TO THIS RECALL ARE MODEL NO’S.: GAUGES #: Auto Meter Product Numbers
2659
3309
3509
4309
4409
5709
Jackson Racing Product Numbers
971-165
Electric 0-100psi Short Sweep (90deg.) Electric Fuel Pressure Gauge & Sending Unit Model year 2001-2002

REPLACEMENT
SENDER #:
2248

If you have purchased this fuel pressure gauge and installed it in your vehicle, we recommend that you REMOVE THE SENDER AND GAUGE AND STOP USING THEM IMMEDIATELY.

The Auto Meter Engineers are working diligently to resolve all performance questions regarding these gauges with the intent to provide replacement technology in the near future. Until that time we ask all customers to allow Auto Meter to continue to provide the finest quality high performance instrument in spite of an occasional circumstance such as this.

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CONTACT:

Auto Meter Products, Inc.
Customer Service
413 W. Elm St.
Tel. # (815) 895-8141
Sycamore, IL 60178

 

AutoMeter has changed their design over the years. When I bought my full-sweep 100psi guage, it came with the sending unit in the picture below, and an electronics box that I mounted under the dash. I believe they subsequently integrated the sensor and the electronics in the sending unit.

Assuming you are starting with an AutoMeter gauge, have you asked their tech support for suggestions?

Even companies that deal with fuel have problems with materials of construction. I originally had an AutoMeter mechanical fuel pressure gauge with a high pressure isolator on the firewall. The isolator failed and allowed fuel in to the passenger compartment. The isolator was recalled and redesigned, and they still had problems with them. They gave me a credit toward an electric gauge, in lieu of replacing the isolator. Aeromotive blamed the frequent failures on their AFPR on changes in gasoline composition causing failure of the parts.

You're probably lucky it lasted 10 years.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photo...ilFuelConn.jpg

 

That's one reason I went with electrical, I didn't trust the concept of an "isolator" knowing it wasn't made of solid steel. Funny how trying to stay "safe" with electrical almost got me into trouble though. I've entertained the idea of not using it full time (even though it's mounted in my A-pillar) ...but I like knowing in real time there's adequate fuel with this little forced induction application. I planned to call technical support at some point, but I feel pretty sure my idea with the wiring harness will be fine ....can't hurt to find out for sure though. Thanks for your input and the picture.

 

Plan to order these tonight once I speak with tech. Anyone have any advice before I order? ...ie: "don't use that one" or otherwise. Just a TTT in case anyone has advice, thank you.

 

canbaufo:
Take a look at egauges.com
I've been using a Cyberdyne A211E261Y 20-100 psig fp gauge for the last 18 months with no problems. (amber)
Also using a Cyberdyne A216E161Y vacuum - boost gauge too. (green)
Both gauges have high/low memory recall too.
fp was ~$90, vac/boost ~$110 at that time.

 

Thanks but I'm not interested in a new gauge, just a sending unit. I'm going to cap the end of my fuel line off and connect the ground wire, tape off the other two wires and call it a day for awhile. I'll likely order the PN's I've already shown. In the meantime I feel it's more reliable to just cap the thing off anyway ...may end up doing that on trips so I don't have to worry about a pathetic sending unit failure. Going to find a 1/8th NPT cap tomorrow and let that suffice for awhile.

 

$30 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Press...#ht_600wt_1147

Just bought one for my TIG torch water cooler I'm building.

 

Holy crap it even includes the connector for that price! ...awesome find man! ....thanks! Normally I'd be hesitant to try something like this but since I have an NPT "cap" (just tried it yesterday and it works fine) I feel safe enough to keep the cap on board for emergencies and try this "off brand" ..... since it says it's made to withstand fuel and rated for 100 PSI I don't see why not??? ...also has the correct threads.

I only want to confirm one thing that should be really easy via deductive reasoning. I think I know the answer but want to be sure because I'm a wiring noob:

My old "oil sending unit" that was being used in place of a fuel sending unit only had two electrical connections. One said "ground" and the other one said nothing. The "ground" was connected to TWO BLACK WIRES; one short black one was grounded at the back of the intake and a long black one was run through the firewall. The "blank" connection was connected to ONE YELLOW WIRE; it was run through the firewall as well.

In the product information for this "transducer" you're using this is what it says for wiring:

"Red: +5V.
Yellow: Ground.
Green: Signal output."

Based on how my old setup was wired I would guess the LONG BLACK WIRE must have been "signal output" since it was wired on the same terminal with the ground. Surely it couldn't have been the "Red: +5V" wired together with the ground. So to splice into my old wiring it would be:

Red: "+5V": Goes to my old yellow wire that runs through the firewall

Yellow: "ground" : Goes to my SHORT BLACK WIRE that is grounded on the intake manifold

Green: "signal output" goes to the LONG BLACK WIRE that used to be connected together with my old ground (on the "ground" of the old oil pressure sending unit) that goes back into the firewall.

This has to be correct due to the way my old oil sending unit was wired, right????

 

2-wire sending units are + and SIGNAL, and ground through the body. 3-wire sending units do not need to ground through the body/threads, and have +, -, and SIGNAL.

In your example, Red goes to a switched power source, Yellow goes to the ground, and Green goes inside to the gauge.

 

Thanks, lol with all these different colors on old wires vs new I just want to be sure I'm understanding you right. Bascially you're confirming the following part of what I said, correct?:

"Red: "+5V": Goes to my old yellow wire that runs through the firewall

Yellow: "ground" : Goes to my SHORT BLACK WIRE that is grounded on the intake manifold

Green: "signal output" goes to the LONG BLACK WIRE that used to be connected together with my old ground (on the "ground" of the old oil pressure sending unit) that goes back into the firewall."

This seems right to me because the LONG BLACK WIRE is SURELY the "signal output" that goes to the gauge since it was wired together with my ground through the body of my old two-wire sender (it couldn't be the "switched +5 power source wire wired together with the ground, correct? LOL). I guess that's all I want to make sure of ...that I'm correctly identifying the old "signal output" wire vs the old "switched +5V power source" wire. The ground wire is obvious of course. Again in an effort to make sense here; the ground wire was wired together with the LONG BLACK WIRE that ran back into the firewall, so given that fact ...the LONG BLACK WIRE must have been the "signal output" and NOT the "+5V power source", correct?

Thanks for your assistance/confirmation.

 

I'm trying to use it and it's not working. I think I realize what's wrong though. My fuel pressure gauge directions show it being used with a two-wire sender, this of course is a three-wire sender.

I've tried wiring it two different ways. I always ran ground to the engine but changed one thing. There were two wires coming from the firewall and I tried attaching them to the +5v and signal wires of the sender. Tried them both ways and either got 0 PSI or 100 PSI on the gauge reading.

Note page two of this diagram for "Pressure Gauges" by Autometer:

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/382g.pdf

Note that it shows the gauge being used with a two-wire sending unit. I think what I need to do to get this three wire sending unit to work with it is to use one of these two methods:

Method 1:

A: Run the ground wire to "ground" on the gauge and the ground that's already coming off my intake (splice them together somehow or use a splitter coming off of the sending unit's ground wire...after it's split one goes to the engine ground and the other goes to the ground connection for the gauge).

B: Run the +5v wire from the sender to the "to ignition switch" wire on the gauge (as seen in diagram).

C: (the easy part) run the signal wire of the sender to the signal wire going to the gauge.

Method 2:

This will be WAY easier if it can work. Simply eliminate the +5v wire of the sender and use the sender as if it's a two-wire sender the same way my old two wire sender was used (being sure to properly ground), someone please tell me I can do that .....that would be soooo much easier!!

 

I suspect the 2-wire sensor is a simple variable resistor, and the voltage at the 12V gauge varies with the resistance, which varies with the pressure. The 3-wire sensor sounds like a sensor intended to operate at 5V reference, and put out a variable voltage between 0 and 5V, not a variable resistance.

Having previsoulsy been burned by using a sensor that was not intended for the purpose, I would think you would see the wisdom of getting EXACTLY the sensor the gauge manufacturer recommends for that specific guage.

 

2 wire sensors are piezoresistive, NOT a variable regulated voltage output like the 3 wire sensors are. They are not inter-changable.

The one linked is just like a map sensor. 5V in and .5 - 4.5v (or whatever) voltage out, linear with pressure.

 

I'm confused. You're the one who posted the link to that sensor? Are you telling me that based on the data I've given you now think it's wrong? Accidents happen so no biggie if so ...just want to know your thoughts....you didn't have all the details at the time you gave me the link.

....time to put the NPT cap back on until I figure out what's going on ....

 

I think the problem here is the WE don't know what AutoMeter gauge you own. You posted a picture of a 3-wire 5V sensor. He suggested one that would function similar to the one you posted a picture of.

Mike can guess, I can guess..... but it would seem that all YOU have to do is contact AutoMeter for assistance. I'd hate to see another case of fuel leakage.