wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
#1
wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
New pics on post # 11!!!
Well I finished my cam swap on thursday night, a week after I planned. I didnt get my springs and timing chain untill a week and a half after I ordered them. I had dyno time scheduled for friday, and damnit my car was gonna run by then. I had bought some used crane gold rr's from ebay. They are the sa kind. I found at the last minuite that a few of them had some wear on the sa tabs. But I had my deadline in my head. It was gonna run! They fit normal, and felt tight on the valves. I did not think one would come off...
The dyno is about 30 miles from my house. I made it 20 miles. Here is what happened:
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbccup.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbcd3d.jpg
And the worst part...
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbcdao.jpg
The valve is still up, and stuck in the guide. Also if you look at it, it looks higher than the other valves I think the valve face got knocked off, and is in the cylinder. Either way if the piston hit it that hard, I bet its damaged
Anyways, dont get in a hurry when working on engines! I never do this sort of thing with my customers, and I work on engines every day, and have for many years. But on my own stuff I guess sometimes I get in a hurry, and cut some corners. This time I paid the price
Well I finished my cam swap on thursday night, a week after I planned. I didnt get my springs and timing chain untill a week and a half after I ordered them. I had dyno time scheduled for friday, and damnit my car was gonna run by then. I had bought some used crane gold rr's from ebay. They are the sa kind. I found at the last minuite that a few of them had some wear on the sa tabs. But I had my deadline in my head. It was gonna run! They fit normal, and felt tight on the valves. I did not think one would come off...
The dyno is about 30 miles from my house. I made it 20 miles. Here is what happened:
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbccup.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbcd3d.jpg
And the worst part...
http://i1.tinypic.com/nbcdao.jpg
The valve is still up, and stuck in the guide. Also if you look at it, it looks higher than the other valves I think the valve face got knocked off, and is in the cylinder. Either way if the piston hit it that hard, I bet its damaged
Anyways, dont get in a hurry when working on engines! I never do this sort of thing with my customers, and I work on engines every day, and have for many years. But on my own stuff I guess sometimes I get in a hurry, and cut some corners. This time I paid the price
Last edited by Josh'95Z28conv; 02-06-2006 at 10:52 PM.
#2
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
WOW that sucks dude. What kinda springs are those?
Hopefully the damage isn't too serious.
Be sure to post pics/progress as you find out more information.
Hopefully the damage isn't too serious.
Be sure to post pics/progress as you find out more information.
#3
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
PLEASE do not post oversize pictures. The ability to post photos was only added recently. If we have problems like this, the ability to post photos will be removed.
I've deleted the "img" tags, so people can still go look at the poster-size photos.
I've deleted the "img" tags, so people can still go look at the poster-size photos.
#5
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
Im gonna pull the head and inspect it. Im betting it wont be as easy as replacing a valve. I guess its time to build that forged 355 I wanted. I didnt want to pay that kind of money for at least another year, and this cam swap was supposed to get me by untill then. Oh well, **** happens.
#7
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
I,m real **** about that. I will drive around my block for miles testing new equipment so I won,t get stranded away from home if something lets go.
I usually have about 50 miles on my stuff before I will trust it to go on the hiway.
Thats 50 miles around my house, my neighbors love me.
I usually have about 50 miles on my stuff before I will trust it to go on the hiway.
Thats 50 miles around my house, my neighbors love me.
#8
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
A couple of no-no's in that first picture.....
795-16 retainers, 613-16 locks AND self aligning rocker arms..... probably with a cam that's over .530" lift without checking installed height.
That's all signs of a spring going into coil bind and breaking, especially when you see a pushrod look like that. The rockers were also rubbing badly on the retainers/locks and that's what chewed them up too. So there was a few things wrong, and I'm suprised it got 20 miles.
That's a bad deal man.... this is a reason why someone with experience should pick out the parts and/or install them or give VERY good instructions.
Bret
795-16 retainers, 613-16 locks AND self aligning rocker arms..... probably with a cam that's over .530" lift without checking installed height.
That's all signs of a spring going into coil bind and breaking, especially when you see a pushrod look like that. The rockers were also rubbing badly on the retainers/locks and that's what chewed them up too. So there was a few things wrong, and I'm suprised it got 20 miles.
That's a bad deal man.... this is a reason why someone with experience should pick out the parts and/or install them or give VERY good instructions.
Bret
#10
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
A couple of no-no's in that first picture.....
795-16 retainers, 613-16 locks AND self aligning rocker arms..... probably with a cam that's over .530" lift without checking installed height.
That's all signs of a spring going into coil bind and breaking, especially when you see a pushrod look like that. The rockers were also rubbing badly on the retainers/locks and that's what chewed them up too. So there was a few things wrong, and I'm suprised it got 20 miles.
That's a bad deal man.... this is a reason why someone with experience should pick out the parts and/or install them or give VERY good instructions.
Bret
795-16 retainers, 613-16 locks AND self aligning rocker arms..... probably with a cam that's over .530" lift without checking installed height.
That's all signs of a spring going into coil bind and breaking, especially when you see a pushrod look like that. The rockers were also rubbing badly on the retainers/locks and that's what chewed them up too. So there was a few things wrong, and I'm suprised it got 20 miles.
That's a bad deal man.... this is a reason why someone with experience should pick out the parts and/or install them or give VERY good instructions.
Bret
Combo Motorsports sold me the springs, locks, retainers, and locaters after I gave them all my cam specs. You really think it got into coil bind, or was this from worn SA tabs on the rockers to begin with? If it was coil bind, this happened from their mistake, not mine.
#11
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
New pics!!
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmlvp.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmmav.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmmiu.jpg
Looks like worst case scenario. The head is trash It looks like the block may be ok, just needs a good bore. Hopefully .030 will take those grooves out from the piston pin. I found a part of the piston in the intake, the rest is in the pan I guess.
Damn that all happened really quick. It started making loud valvetrain noise, then died seconds later. Crazy.
Bret, those are the part #'s they sold me, along with the CC-4705-16 locaters. The guy at the shop that was going to dyno it said the locaters looked a little thick. If that caused coil bind, thats what went wrong. Should different springs been used? Id really like to know what happened. I looked over the other rr's, and they look fine. Im starting to think it was coil bind that went wrong...
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmlvp.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmmav.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/ncmmiu.jpg
Looks like worst case scenario. The head is trash It looks like the block may be ok, just needs a good bore. Hopefully .030 will take those grooves out from the piston pin. I found a part of the piston in the intake, the rest is in the pan I guess.
Damn that all happened really quick. It started making loud valvetrain noise, then died seconds later. Crazy.
Bret, those are the part #'s they sold me, along with the CC-4705-16 locaters. The guy at the shop that was going to dyno it said the locaters looked a little thick. If that caused coil bind, thats what went wrong. Should different springs been used? Id really like to know what happened. I looked over the other rr's, and they look fine. Im starting to think it was coil bind that went wrong...
#13
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
to me, thats the real problem with running those behive springs. only one coil so if you get a coil problem, its gonna drop the valve. and, I dont think those two big gouges will come out of your cyl. walls. couldnt hurt to give it a try, but they look deep in the photo's. good luck though.
#14
Re: wanted to post dyno #'s, but instead I messed up my LT1
No the problem is who sold you the parts.... if you have never put that setup on a LT1 head before and checked install height then you could get into serious trouble. My math on your setup definately puts that into coil bind, which is what caused that. If that was a dual spring the SAME THING WOULD HAPPEN!!!! IrocSS85, no matter what you are going to destroy a motor if the wrong parts go in and setup the incorrect way and cause this, it's not the springs fault.... it's the parts that went with them and the install.
I've said this before and I will say it again.... just because you have a deal with Comp Cams for parts DOES NOT MAKE YOU QUALIFIED TO PICK OUT PARTS/CAMS/VALVETRAINS FOR A MOTOR.
If this was all done right then you wouldn't have to rebuild the motor.
It sucks but thats the truth.
Bret
I've said this before and I will say it again.... just because you have a deal with Comp Cams for parts DOES NOT MAKE YOU QUALIFIED TO PICK OUT PARTS/CAMS/VALVETRAINS FOR A MOTOR.
If this was all done right then you wouldn't have to rebuild the motor.
It sucks but thats the truth.
Bret