My mod list is as follows...
Pacesetter Headers, Cutout after Y-pipe, Custom Exhaust. B&M Trans Cooler, TPIS airfoil, BMR LCA relocation brackets, Autometer A/F and Trans Temp Gauges !CATS, !EGR, !AIR, Descreen MAF, TB Bypass, 160 Degree thermostat, MSD Blaster Coil, PCMforLESS, Lakewood LCAs, Shift kit in fresh rebuilt 4L60E. K&N FIPK

 

there is water that goes threw the throttle body that is hot and hot is no good. U need to disconnect the one side and connect it to the other side.. takes about 20min .. do a search for it or shoebox and then u will see btw my air foil is at 20.00 bucks right now and a new one is 50 buy quick

 

For inquiring minds......

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

 

Just want to clear things up, we didn't hear for sure if you had an auto or 6spd.

 

Coolent runs through your throttle body. I`m pretty sure it`s so it doesn`t freeze, or somthing. When they say to bypass the throttle body, they mean to by pass the coolent from running through there. I am in NW ohio and have similar winters to you, you`ll be alright if you do this. With what you have listed, you shouldn`t have any problems with getting 13-13.5. I definatly reccomend subframe connectors for that vertable. The higher stall convertor will definatly help, even if it is a driver. My car is a driver and I`m very pleased with the 2400/3.73 combo! I can`t wait till my cam goes in! Also, do you know what ratio gears your car has? If it is an Auto, and has the 3.23`s, then switching to 3.73`s wouldn`t be worth the effort at this point.