knowing that stock, LS1's run about 50 hp more than a stock LT1. also knowing that they are newer engines than LT1's they should be much more customizable right??? so am i better off selling my LT1, going to the scrap yard, and finding a stock LS1 off a 98-02 Z or SS with lower miles and buying it for probably 1000 dollars?? I see all these engines like LS7 and 9 and everything and was just guessing those mods all started with a stock LS1 correct? so in the long run i would gain much more in having a LS1 over an LT1 correct??

 

The LS1, LS2, LS3, LS7, and LS9 are not the same just with modifications.

The LS6 is an LS1 with different heads and intake...cam too I believe.

I think the LS9 has an LS3 block, but different heads maybe, and obviously the supercharger.

The displacements for each are as follows:

• LS1 - 5.7L
• LS2 - 6.0L
• LS3 - 6.2L
• LS7 - 7.0L
• LS9 - 6.2L

 

I guess you could say it all started with the ls1, however they are not all modified LS1's (unless you get very loose on what you call a modified ls1). They are the same engine family.

 

so with money a tight situation i have another question. will my LT1 with basic mods. CAI, 1.6'' R.R., cc503 cam, 3.73 gear in rear, catback...be able to take on a stock LS1 and beat its ***, or would those mods just equal out the 2 cars horsepowers. I would think they would equal out... But how much hp can an LT1 truly make. i mean bored out a 396 can push out what maybe real close to 900 with no Nos... so with just keeping my LT a standard 350, what else can i do to it....??? (besides for any type of charger) any other bolt on's that can kick this gorgeous car up a nickel? also what does it mean when people say the cars bored .30 over?? i always kinda understood but what does it really mean? i dont wanna sound like a jackass saying the wrong thing in a situation because i don't know what im talking about
-thanks scott-

 

Making 900 HP, normally aspirated out of a LT1, in my view, isn't do-able unless you plan on trailering the car and give up any hope of normal street use. 500/550 HP (maybe a little more) at the crank is more realistic if street use is in the picture.

When people mean is .030", not .30". They are not trying to say that the CAR is bored .30" over, they're saying the cylinder bores in the block have been enlarged by an amount of .030" by boreing and honeing the block's cylinders. This also requires installing new, larger pistons. This increases the cubic inch displacement of the engine and, if all else remains the same, increases the compression ratio.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

A 396 will be nowhere near 900 hp without FI or a big shot of Nitrous...and I mean a lot!

The bore size of your LT1 is 4.000 inches, this is the diameter of the cylinder bore. If you bore it .030 over (not .30), the bore size becomes 4.030" and your displacement will go from 350 cu. in. to 355 cu. in. assuming you keep the same stroke.

As I've mentioned before, you need to get headers, long tubes if emissions will allow it. A cam and roller rockers will not reach their full potential if the engine is being choked by the exhaust.

Without taking the heads off and porting them, your bolt-ons are:

• CAI
• Headers and Cat-back
• 1.6 RRs
• Cam
• Blaster coil, ignition wires, spark plugs
• Throttle body (although maybe not worth it on a mostly stock engine)
• Possibly bigger injectors (30 lb/hr)
• Computer tune

I'm sure there might be others, but that's all I can think of off the top of my head. Don't forget about suspension either. Lower control arms made a noticeable difference in my car.

EDIT: Actually JakeJR, increasing the bore size while keeping the same piston style would lower the CR, because of the slightly larger volume in the cylinder, granted it wouldn't be much of a difference

 

I've had this discussion more times than I can remember. First time was more than 30 years ago.

At first it would seem that going with a larger bore, keeping all else the same, would LOWER CR, but that's not the case.

All you need to do is crunch the numbers and you'll see that CR goes UP, not down.

Jake

West Point ROCKS! Nation's TOP COLLEGE per Forbes Magazine!

 

This makes zero sense to me. Can anyone else elaborate? It would seem to me that if you have 50 psi stuffed into a tire, and you add 2 inches to the tire the pressure would go down. (granted I may be going clear off subject and I have no idea what im talking about)

 

Whoops, brainfart lol, you're right. I was thinking of the clearance volume only, and not with respect to the volume from TDC to BDC increasing as well.

 

This will help explain it:
From Car Craft

 

well thanks alot guys. that helped a crap load. i reallllllyyy understand the bore now. now im not going to sound like an idiot if someone asks me how to do it and what it meand
-scott-

 

Thank you, I am quite impressed about this. I have learned something new today