I'm installing my full exhaust tomorrow. (MAC Mid headers, cat, cat-back)

I'm trying to cover all my bases and have a question.

I searched, and I think that it is correct to have the bumped out D-rings on the header gasket face the headers, correct? So the flat side faces the heads?

Just want to make sure this is correct.

Here is a picture of part of the gaskets. It shows the two sides of the gaskets.
Gasket Picture

Also, as a side note, for the AIR fittings, there is a little round piece that you drop into the AIR tube at the top of the headers. Does the beveled part of that face down into the headers, or up out of the AIR tube?

Thanks,
Dan

 

FLat side toward the head, and I'm not sure.

 

I am installing the headers right now, what was the answer to the question.

 

The flat side goes towards the heads, the bumped out D-port goes towards the header flange.

I ended up going with Mr. Gasket Ultraseal header gaskets because the copper ones didn't seal up perfectly. There were a couple of slight leaks. I would try them and see if they work o.k. before you go and buy new gaskets.

For the second question, I didn't use the beveled pieces at all. With the correct AIR adaptors, I didn't need them.

Dan

 

Unless it says on the gasket,it doesn't matter.Its going to get flattened to seal,no matter how it is facing.

 

No, not really. When torqued down to the correct specs, the copper doesn't get crushed at all. It would take A LOT of TQ to flatten out copper header gaskets.

Dan

 

Don't tap that gasket on the bead with a small hammer you will get a supprise.

 

Well of coarse, but the load on the header gasket is much more evenly ditributed and much less force than a hammer blow.

Dan

 

Yeah, the raised area will get flattened out, but the thing is; it does matter which way it's facing. The head has a fairly flat surface with a lot of metal mass behind it. Putting the raised side against that is a waste. You should put it against the header, which is far more likely to have an uneven surface and will move more as it heats and cools because there is much less metal there.

And definitely use some dressing.


Myself, I used a paper gasket and it seals fine. The trick is to retighten a few times until things stop moving around. Generally 2-3 re-tightenings are sufficient.

 

Wish you the best with those gaskets... I've never had any luck with them. Had to use a bead of copper rtv to get a seal.

I think they'll work fine if the header flange and mating surfaces are real flat.... this set of headers I installed on a buddy's car weren't, so that could have been the reason. Either way, they blew out a month later and we went to paper gaskets and rtv... never had a leak after that.

To confirm your answers... yes the embossed side goes towards the header.

-Mindgame

 

When I originally did my Hooker LTs I used the Mr. Gasket Copper ones....

After a year of usage, and noticing some major leakage, I found out how bad when I went with the Earl's Aluminum/Graphite gaskets...


7 out of 8 cylinders were leaking with the copper gaskets... BAD...

With the new gaskets, not 1 leak... and I checked the header bolts after a week of driving, and none required tightening either.

 

Good replys. My copper gaskets might be a thicker gauge than others, because they did not flatten out at all, even after I noticed a small leak and tried to really get them tight.

Anyways, they are long gone. Had them for two weeks and switched to a composite metal gasket like the Felpro's, but made by Mr. Gaskets. Works like a charm.

Dan

 

YA didn't have them tight enough if they didn't flatten,or your bolt's were to long.

The torque spects are as tight as you can get them and another round and a half.

If you can't get a box end or a socket on the bolts,get the 12pointx1" bolts and tighten the **** out of them with NO sealer.