Well, i installed the 1.6rr's and noticed a big gain. Im not sure if its because i "freshened" up the valvetrain with new parts (springs, pushrods) and the higher lift or the 1.6's just put out well. Either way im happy and anyone that is thinking about doing it should maybe think about it for your next mod.

 

Good to hear that you are pleased. This is going to be my next mod in the next week or so and I am hoping for noticable gains. I plan on doing new springs along with the 1.6rr's.

I hear that new springs make a difference on some of these higher milage cars so we will see. I have 126k miles, but the main reason I want to do springs is just to go ahead and do them now so when I want a cam later down the road, they will already be there.

 

I was also impressed with the gains I received from 1.6RRs, LT4 Springs, and Comp push rods. I never thought I would gain as much as I did!

 

Everyone talks about gains, but what exactly did you gain? I got 7 rwhp and 2 lbs torque on the dyno.

 

Jason has a 93 z28 though... I know that in my 93 TA when I floor it, it feels like I hit a wall at about 4500 rpm's sometimes, and other times it pulls. I have replaced everything and have attributed it to 11 year old valvesprings. I am pretty sure that jason picked up power just from the valvesprings alone.... let alone the 1.6's. I am still thinking of 1.7's though... That is where the power is. 7rwhp from 1.6's... imagine 10-14 from 1.7's.. and that is an underestimate from what others usually get.

 

not to jack the thread but if you upgrade to 1.6 roller rockers, is it a must that you change the springs or can you leave the stock springs and just replace the retainers, push rods, and rockers?

 

you need to replace the springs because the stockers won't handle the additional lift from what I understand.

 

Lots of people get away without replacing the springs...however, if you do the measurements, you'll likely discover you're at the hairy edge of coil bind and risk breaking valvetrain parts. Most guys I know don't change the springs, simple due to the extra cost and hassle of putting them in...but I think they're nuts. A buddy of mine has three of those little pushrod ball ends floating around in his motor somewhere as a result.

 

do you need to remove the heads to put the new springs in or is it something you can do with them still on the block?

 

You can do it with the heads on the car. Hit up http://www.streetillusionsracing.com for a write up on how to do the spring/rocker swap. They did it with the heads on the car.

 

I did it with the heads still on the car. Didn't use compressed air or anything either.

 

1.7RR on stock heads are a waste. The stock intake port stalls out around .500 lift and the stock exhaust around .525, also the flow increase from .400 to .500 is nothing to write home about. If your heads are stock, I would stick with 1.6RR.

I was told the stock springs are good for .500 lift (is this right?). My calculator says 1.6RR would put me around .475. Am I wrong to think that this is enough. I do realize that older springs are weaker and will float earlier because of it. This is one reason I have backed off my rev limiter to 5k until I get my heads/cam done over the winter.

 

RE, just get some LT4 springs for the time being.....about 30 bucks from GMPD...can take lift up to .525

 

What exactly do you mean by stall? Do they actually STOP flowing, or just stop flowing faster than the previous step? I would assume that they continue to flow, but either flow the same or somewhat less than slightly lower lift levels. So I would think that even if you go above the lift point where max flow occurs, that you are better off than never reaching that point at all simply because you reach that point twice during the open-close cycle.

Wouldn't going slightly beyond the optimum flow/lift point also ensure that you spend the maximum amount of time at optimum lift, thereby ensuring better filling of the cylinder?

 

hey LT1 squirrel do u know the GMPD part # for the lt4 springs? thanks, and for the Comp pushrods wha do you guys suggest, i seen a thing taht said "Comp cams high energy pushrods for 55-UP Small block flat tappet sold in set of 16" or do i go with the "Comp cams high energy pushrods for 87-UP OE Small block roller cams sold in set of 16"? For the 1.6 rr's is Crane Cams Gold's the best? how much should this all run me. thanks guys i really appreciate the help
Dan