Ok, so I dropped my car down again today. Folllowing the advice of a Fellow board member. I used the Mitty Vac method of cleaning the air out the Clutch line. Everything worked perfectly cleaned all the air out the lines in seconds...But My clutch still would not dissengage. When you shift the car into gear and lay off the pedal the car takes off....without using the gas at all...So I'm thinking I've done something awfully wrong....

Now when I put the Tranny in there...I used Anti Sieze.... yeah...I know I know...use "Hi temp Grease!" but I wasn't thinking. I just slapped the Anti Sieze on the Spindle threads...I'm not sure if I lubbed the pilot bearing up...but at this point I probably missed it. So do you think that's my problem besides my being an idiot? If I pull the tranny ...again do yo uthink that will elimintate my sticking cluthc problems? Besides lube...what else might I want to look at while I'm there...if my clutch isn't dissengaging?

 

I think:
You should continue posting in one thread so people can see what you did so far and they don't waste their time (obviously your time doesn't matter).

As far as this thread is concerned you don't have a problem.

You should answer the questions from the previous thread(s) you started. See the first suggestion above. Like is the clutch and pressure plate from an aftermarket source. That's your problem. If you wait it will decrease.

You should have someone who knows what their doing waste their time looking at your non-existant problem.

You should post another 12 times today.

 

slopokrodrigez

WTF is all that about?

I just asked a question. And this was a followup with new information in it. Who are you to tell me what questions I can ask and what to ask about?

This post is only in this thread. And I've already tried the suggestions from the other post as well as done the infamous "search" "Non-existant problem?" What were you there with me when I dropped the car down? and Put the Clutch in? How is the problem non existant? The damn car won't go in reverse and Clutch won't dissengage. I'm already frustraigted enough trying to get this right. Obviously the problem is not the pedal..as I thought it was and wrote about in my previous post. I don't need some guy on the internet trying to flame me when I'm trying to peace **** togther. What does it matter if I have 12 post or 1billion post under may name. Who really cares? Who gives a flying f34K? All I'm trying to do is get my car up and running again. How petty can you get? Apparently this is my first clutch job and I'm trying to get it right...sorry I'm not some master mechanic with 25K in tools and a kickass garage to work in. But I'm a budget racer who works out side on ground in the cold *** 30 degree winter weather with his cheap *** autozone tools and nothing more than a 5 dollar manual for guidance. So If I come to a point where I'm in need of help F34K me.

Now...does anyone that's familiar with a sticking clutch have any input? Could a not properly greased shaft cause this problem?

 

Pilot Bearing won't make any difference as far as dis-engaging or not. So your saying even if the clutch pedal is depressed all the way and you are in gear the car moves? Does it grind when you try to shift?

 

I tend to collect f-bodies so sometimes they don't get driven all that much When I didn't drive my 95TA for several weeks after a huge rainstorm, I went out to drive it one day, pushed in the clutch and turned the key... the car lurched forward! I was like Even though the pedal was all the way in the flywheel, disk, and pressure plate were still all "connected" . I ended up pushing it out of the driveway and onto the road where I could turn the key and just let it lurch forward a few times (and not hit my garage door!). After it lurched a few times, it unstuck itself and all was cool. Your problem sounds a bit different but just throwing this out there in case it might give you an idea or something

 

I had that happen on an S-10 Blazer one time. Friggin' scared the hell out of me and took a minute to figure out what happened!

 

No kidding! Thank goodness I parked about a car length away from the garage instead of pulling up right next to it! That would have been ugly

 

THe car doesn't jump forward or anything It's pretty much under conrol...kind of like and automatic. The cars stuck in the driveway since I can't get her in Reverse... I'll try to push it out to the street tommmorrow morning and see what happens if I take her around the block a few times. but I'm just thinking from the info I gathered here. The lubrication on the shaft plays a big part. If I used Anti sieize..or not enough lube might that be the case?

The car doesn't grind at all when I shift....and so far the gears seem easy. But Reverse isn't happening at all. It's just like as soon as you let off the pedal the car gently starts moving foward. Nothing like when you start the car accidentally in gear and it jumps out. It just starts easing foward. There's no grinding sounds...rattling...or burning smells. THe only time I ever heard grinding was when I tried to shift into Reverse. Now that I forsure know all the airs out the hydraulic system. It's tiem to look else where. BTW it's a S2 SPEC Clutch.

 

Even if the Output shaft wasn't lubed properly when you push the pedal in it will still go as far as it would lubed , Just might be harder to push in so I don't think thats your problem. Did you resurface your flywheel?, If too much is taken off you could have disengagement problems. Are all the bolts tight on the bellhousing and tranny?

 

The only thing that I have ever heard of fixing your problem would be with the addition of an adjustable master cylinder. If your clutch is engaging as soon as it comes off of the floor then you might look into getting one of these. Just about everyone else that I hear of with an LT1 has a clutch that engages about 2" from the top, including myself! With the addition of an adjustable MC, you can dial in where exactly the clutch disengages/engages in its travel.

 

I've replaced a couple of clutches in the last several months and each time the clutch didn't seem to disengage fully when I first tried it. Each time, the same thing fixed the problem: With the car on jackstands, work the clutch a bunch. Start the engine and put it into gear and work the clutch several times, stopping the wheels each time. Eventually, the disk and the pressure plate "get acquainted" and the clutch works normally. After working it on the jackstands, take it out and drive it a little.

If you've already taken the car out, it will probably work the disk in properly just driving it easy. It should work itself out.

 

Forget the fact that you didnt lube the shaft or whatever, that has nothing to do with anything and cant say Ive ever done that in the 10+ clutch or tranny fixes Ive done recently.

You never did answer the question about what kind of clutch it is, im sure it was in one of the other threads about this problem but that doesnt do this thread much good. If it is a brand new higher strength clutch it isnt gonna slip like a stock one will allowing you to ease it into movement. Especially at first, its hard to say how bad is is based off your explanation because if you arent familiar with how a new clutch is supposed to feel you could just be bigtime overreacting. The reverse not working is probably a totally separate problem in itself. Get the car on the road and drive it around for a few hundred miles if possible and see what happens, but then again it all depends on what clutch you put in.

 

I mentioned the clutch a couple post up...but it's a Spec Stage 2. I had the Flywheel resurfaced for the second time.

I've had a clutch replaced once before...The pedal was really super tight like and responsive up high....

After I bled this Clutch system it was "Springy" but not "restrictive." All the airs out the system so I can't really explain.

To tell you the truth it's like all I need to do is tap the pedal to get the stick in...gear but as soon as it's in gear I don't even need to hit the gas. The wheels just start turning immediatly. It's like I don't feel the weight of the clutch at all on the pedal...

I actually just sat in the car shifting from 1-6th by just pressing the clutch in alone. But if I try to go in Reverse it makes a grinding sound...like the sound you hear when the clutch isn't pushed in all the way when your trying to go into a gear.

 

You are for some reason associating the amount of throttle to when the clutch engages, when technically they have nothing to do with each other, except the fact that normally you need RPMs to keep it from stalling.

so you say you push the clutch in from the top like an inch or maybe slightly more, shift in gear....does it start moving if you put it in gear but leave your clutch foot in the same position? Or do you release the pedal before it starts moving?

If the latter, I am having a hard time seeing what the problem is since that is usually how manuals work, when you release the clutch pedal the car moves!

 

when I release the pedal the car will start moving. I keep making reference to gas because if I shift the car 1st into gear without giving it the throttle it will cut off. My cars not doing that. It's taking off when it should be cutting off. I shouldn't be able to just push the clutch into gear without hitting the gas. It's acting more or less like an automotic. Like it doesn't need that equalibrium of Clutch and accelorator....I'm baffled What worries me most is the Reverse issue. It grinds when going into that gear. So that's telling me that the clutch is sticking.


Maybe thismight sound stupid but if I pushed the car into 1st while it's doing what it's doing and hit the Brakes like I was stagging...do you think that might free the clutch up? Dumb Idea?