Ok if thats your only problem there is no problem man...just cuz the car moves without gas has nothing at all to do with anything transmission related. For example, I was trying to stall my car one day to make myself look like a jackass on campus, couldnt do it, not even going up a slight incline, it wouldnt be a smooth take off, but it would not stall, that did not mean there was something wrong with my car, that just meant that it had enough power to not require additional throttle to move the car, even with a stage 3 clutch.

Just try to forget that you think you have a problem and drive the car, there is nothing wrong with it, unless you arent explaining something. By the way when you are typing, thikn about what you are saying, it makes things much easier to diagnose when you speak correctly.

IE, you dont push a clutch into gear, that makes no sense. A clutch and transmission and shifter are all separate entities. You push the clutch in shift into gear, release the clutch and then the transmission takes over.

 

I dunno...I'm despirate for answers...But I guess the only thing to do now is to push her out the drive way and work it. But the Reverse Grind is a Caution Flag.

 

To get the car in reverse, try keeping the engine off, clutch pedal pushed in, and then put it in reverse. Start the car then back it out. I had a similar problem with my clutch (SPEC stage III POS), I blew a spring out of the disc and it got stuck in the pressure plate so it wouldn't disengage. Pull the tranny, check the clutch, I bet that happened.

 

The reverse grind is very likely a totally separate problem in itself like I said, requiring internal tranny work.

Just forget about the fact that it takes off with no gas, that has nothing to do with anything. There could be a problem if the clutch is engaging way to close to the top, meaning you have a bad master/slave assembly. They should never ever require bleeding whatsoever, when you buy them new they are prebled and totally sealed so you should never ever ever ever have to deal with that. If you still think you have a problem, $140 will get you a new master/slave cylinder assembly that bolts directly in no bleeding or anything, see if that fixes the "problem"

With that said, reverse could be related, if the slave isnt moving the pressure plate enough it could be not totally disengaging the clutch disk which would make it hard to go into gear, but since you said it goes into gear fine I doubt this part.

 

Maybe whoever cut your flywheel for you the 2nd time took too much off and now the slave can't push in far enough to disengage? Altho my flywheel has been cut 2 times it is a possibility.

 

My flywheel had heat spots and oil whatevers on it from a leaky Rear Main Seal. It's a possibility.....but how can I check to see if that's the case. The Hydraulic system has been replaced...but it had some air in it. I got it out with the mitty vac and it was holding pressure...so I don't think the clutch hydraulic system is the problem.

 

you dont have a problem, and if it aint broke then dont fix it. You are making a big deal out of something a lot of manual cars have. Its normal

 

Ok...so I just tried to break the Clutch free. I put the car in gear let her do the roll then hit the brakes. Put it in neutral put it in gear...same unwanted roll. So I did the Brake staging thing and slamed on them while the car was in gear. The rear wheels stopped moving. I roll the car back (manually) and start the car up and do the 1st gear roll. This time the car shuts off as soon as I lay off the clutch. I start the car up and attempt the same thing but this time I put her in second gear...car shuts off again. Ok that seemed to take care of that issue. Now here's the wierd thing. When I started the car back up and tried to shift into the gears it wasn't smooth at all. 1st...2nd..and esp 3rd... were giving me that "clutch isn't all the way in" feeling. So I turned the car off, and moved the stick...the stick moved freely and I got it to go into the Reverse position. What I forgot to mention earlier is that even with the car off...I could not get the shifter into the Reverse position it was locking me out... I got happy when I saw this and turn the car back on and with the Clutch pedal in I just worked the Stick through the gears...same "clutch isn't all the way in feeling" I attempt to go into reverese and I'm locked out the gear still...I can hear the grinding once more. I turn the car off...then push the clutch in and work through the gears....this time I was still locked out of Reverse..but 5th and 6th needed a little "umph" to get into....now what? I plan to test the Reverse lockout Solinoid tommorrow. Maybe some moisture got into the Plug...what do you guys reccomend now? I got rid of the roll but the car is now shifting awkward and Reverse is still grinding. I'm determined to get this car rolling again.

 

TTT

 

I had the EXACT same problem you did. Yours may be slightly worse due to a SPEC clutch, which I'm sure is different from factory. My car was easy to go in gear sometimes, mostly a PITA. I figured the hydraulics were bad, as thats what the general consensus on here was. So, I replaced them with new. $120 down the drain. Still didn't solve it. I was about to give up and my friend came over with a flywheel shim. When you machine too much material off the flywheel, it sits too close to the block, which makes the pressure plate and disk too close to the engine, which makes the fork only pull it so far away from the engine, and there is a limited travel distance on the fork. So, you take everything out, slap this little metal ring behind the flywheel (thickness depends on amount of material removed from flywheel), and then bolt it all back up. I THOUGHT you had asked this before, or maybe someone else with the same problem. BUT, I will put $50 that this is the problem. Did you buy the car new? If not, do you know if the flywheel had been resurfaced before? How much was taken off this last time? You have to realize, there is no spec on flywheel thickness, as chevrolet recommends you buy a NEW flywheel each time a clutch is done. WASTE of money me thinks. Good luck with it.

 

The car was fairly new. I never asked anything about the flywheel before. When I got the car I think it had the original clutch still car had under 35K miles on it. Anyhow the first time the clutch went out I atleast hope that the guy resurfaced the Flywheel. But any how the second time when I did the job myself. My Fly wheel was pretty F34ked from the leaky oil seal. I plan to put an aluminum flywheel in...but later on after the motors pulled. THE clutch stopped sticking for now...just hte Reverse thing is getting Pissy....