just do it with the engine running, its so much easier

and are you running guideplates? what kind?

 

well then you explained it wrong the first time you said it: this is what you said "Well the way im adjusting them is turning it till i see the opposite one start to go down then i adjust it then turn it again till the next one goes down by going by the firing order."

which was wrong. you wait for the exhaust to start to open then adjust the intake. once the intake opens then almost closes adjust the exhaust. there are several ways to adjust rockers. as long as your on the base of the cam you can do it any way you want.

 

ah ok yea the way i explained it was messed up and unclear. But i did it the other way you told me. I waited for the exhaust to close then did 1/4 turn to make sure it was in compression stroke then adjusted the Exhaust and the Intake at the same time. And then i went down the firing order doing the same thing.

How much give should a rocker have though? Sometimes i can push back on them and move then off the valve.

 

1.6 crane. Self adjusting i believe?

 

dont even look at the exhaust valve. you have to look at the intake valve. wait for it to open then close(the second there is no more pressure on the spring and rocker). then do the 1/4 turn of the crank. i hope you mis-typed that cuz i dont know how to explain it more clearly. there shouldnt be that much play in the rocker. its because you were not on the base of the cam.


from that picture above it goes EI IE EI IE


other then that i dont know what else to tell you. if you do figure it out give the engine 5-10 seconds of run time. the lifters still might click loud for that amount a time until they pump up with oil.

 

You are making a relatively easy thing harder than it needs to be.

Step One: Take out the sparkplugs, makes the motor turn much easier.

Step Two: Start at Cylinder #1. Turn the motor over until the exhaust just starts to open. Stop turning the motor. Adjust the intake valve. Loosen the adjuster until the pushrod is loose. Slowly tighten the adjuster until all the lash is taken out of the pushrod, then tighten 1/4 turn more. Lock the adjuster.

Step Three: Turn the crank until the intake opens all the way up and is right before the point that it's closed all the way. Then adjust the exhaust, exactly the same way you adjusted the intake. Zero lash, 1/4 turn more. Lock the adjuster.

Rinse, repeat for the other 7 cylinders.

If this seems too hard, consider having it towed to a competent mechanic.

Forget all that other nonsense about open it until the valve bla bla, then 1/4 turn more, adjust both. That will not work right on all cams. The procedure I explained above (And others also mentioned), will work on all motors.

 

yea your right i did mistype that lol I was only looking at the intake valve. And i'm 100% i got it right this time.

 

ok i adjusted the lifter ect. Same sound as before. I did take note of which RR where making a chatter by taking a screw driver touching it and then putting it up to my ear. And i noticed there is a large amount of oil spitting up from the number 4 exhaust rocker. (more so then any other) could that be a sign of the lifter busted?

Also it sounds like its coming from the passenger side.

What else could it be if its not a lifter?!

 

you should listen to this guy, he might have had this problem before

 

Mine has been doing this for the past year, but the cam lope was so loud you couldn't hear it...fast forward to Sept..I swapped cams and now the VT noise is very appearent. Swapped in new lifters..still have noise....change from NSA to SA rockers, still have noise.... I think I've narrowed mine down to some worn valve guides.
Doesn't make the noise so much when its cold, so one day I popped the VC off while it was hot and removed the valve springs on the cylinder that made the most noise...valve guides do have some play in them....I let it sit till it was cold..about 50 degrees...and it does not have near the same amount of play as it did hot.. I have it narrowed down to only 3 or 4 cylinders by using a stephoscope with the covers off and the engine running.... Just waiting to have the time to pull the heads now....

 

man. then i really hope its not then. right now i have everything off so i'm going to replace the passenger side of the lifter which i think is where its coming from. And thats all i really have money for right now. So if i replace these lifters and it still happens i should pull the head. or should i take the spring off and see if theres play in them?

 

If you are replacing the lifters, then the rockers will already be off, why not pull the springs off that one and see if the the valve stem rocks side to side much at different lift positions..just be sure not to drop the valve or make sure that cyl is at TDC, that will keep the valve from dropping into the cyl. There is a way to accurrately measure the valve slop there but I don't have the tools to do it, my method was very unscientific. I did have a shop fool with it for a bit..a friends shop and he said there was a small amount of valve guide wear, but he did it while it was cold. He didn't think it was enough to cause noise, but then when I did it unscienficially I could tell there was a good deal more movement when it was hot from when it was cold...so I'm almost positive that is it cause everything else has been adj and readj and replaced now without any change.
I may point out, mine noise though was not near as loud as yours..valve guide wear to cause it wouldn't just happen over night either, it would have came on gradually..so, maybe you're in luck with a lifter fried if you are certain the RR's are adj properly.


Sound slike you have exhaust/manifold leaks ruled out since you have it narrowed down to a cyl or 2 with your method.

 

The way I found the bad lifter in my car was to first use a stethiscope to determine which valve cover to remove. Then I was able to tell it was the #1 cylinder. So, while the car was running, I started loosening the rocker arms on that cylinder. The sound went away when the exhaust valve wasn't opening anymore. I pulled the manifold, and that lifter and the roller was wasted.

 

i might have to try that. I went ahead and started an update threat though.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=591991

I'm thinking it something around the fly wheel now. I put everything back together already but it still has the same problem. So im going to poke around the flywheel, maybe take a look at the starter ect.

Thank for everyone's input though. Hopefully i get this figured out soon