Started after the car set for awhile and got it in a day and a half later to it making this sound.

Mods are in Sig. I'm thinking bad lifter and i've taken the valve covers off and have everything down to the lifters already off. So what exactly does a bad lifter look like and how could i tell? I'm also going to try to readjust the RR to figures this out. THanks.

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b3...t=P3190001.flv

 

did you see if any of your rockers were loose before you tore into your engine? definitaly sounds valvetrain related. i would've checked the lash on the rockers before i pulled the intake off.

 

yea they all seemed fine. but this is my 1st time adjusting the RR or anything. When they're not under pressure they wiggle a little bit but all the bolts were tight. Is that ok

 

well since you have your engine apart you mine-as-well change out your lifters. inspect the roller tip for any flat spots or anything out of the ordinary.

were you at top dead center(compression stroke) when you adjusted the rockers? hows your oil pressure?

 

Well the way im adjusting them is turning it till i see the opposite one start to go down then i adjust it then turn it again till the next one goes down by going by the firing order.

 

By reading your technique, I believe I know your problem. Correct proceedure for setting a cylinder is:
Exhaust Opening intake closing

Google EO IC and try again

 

correct. i think that is your problem man. shouldn't of pulled the intake off so fast. Another easy way is to just bring each cylinder to TDC. once the intake valve closes turn the crank another 1/4 turn and you will be at tdc.

 

ok well maybe i'm confused then. The way i did it and the way i've read it,

for ex. on cy1.

I waited till the intake was fully open then i adjusted the exhaust screw till i felt resistance on turning the pushrod or till it had no more vertical give. I think did 1/4 turn and turned the lock all the way down with a hex.

and vis versa with the exhaust fully open for each cylinder

Thats correct right?

 

wrong. Exhaust open, intake closed. when the exhaust begins to open adjust the intake. as the intake valve opens then comes up and closes adjust the exhaust



i still find it easier to just watch the intake valve open then close. once it closes(as close as you can tell) give the crankshaft 1/4 turn and then adjust both valves. so if the intake closes and the crank pulley arrow is at the 9 o'clock position turn it to the 12 o'clock position and then set the valves on that cylinder.



1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

so if you start at #1 TDC(12 o'clock). turn the crank 1/4 turn clockwise and adjust #8. 1/4 turn adjust #4 etc....

basically you will turn the crank 2 revolutions when your done

 

So judging but the 2nd part.. Your saying adjust when both are closed (because right after the intake closes they should both me closed)? or right after the intake closes a 1/4 turn should start to raise the exhaust?

 

yes when both are closed on the compression stroke. the lifters have to be on the base of the cam when you make your adjustments. right when the intake closes it is still not on the base of the cam. the 1/4 turn of the crank will put it right where it needs to be and the piston will be at TDC. its really simple once you figure it out and get the hang of it

 

Well in that case im happy i didnt finish tonight lol.

So the intake valve opening is going to the start of the getting to TDC Then when it closes. 1/4 turn and BOTH RR arms should be done.. and then adjust correct?

 

correct. finish with what?

just think how a 4 stroke engine works. piston goes down as the intake valve opens sucking in the air/fuel mixture. the intake closes when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke. it then compresses the mixture when both valve are closed. when it reaches the top of the stroke the plug fires (where you want to adjust rockers) pushing the piston down. the exhaust valve open when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke and the piston pushes the exhaust out.

 

This is the "detailed" log procedure, but the most correct to use.

Hydraulic Lifter Pre-Load Adjustment

What is Hydraulic Lifter Preload? Mechanical cam designs require a running clearance or valve lash; hydraulic lifters are just the opposite. When the rocker arm assembly is properly adjusted, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter, causing the pushrod seat to move down by .020 to .060. The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the Lifter Preload. The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of preload for it to do its job properly.

What happens if the amount of Hydraulic Lifter Preload is wrong? If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been adjusted, you will have no lifter preload. In this case the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. All of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifters retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail.

If the opposite occurs and the pushrod descends too far (more than .060?), then you have excessive lifter preload. In theory, a hydraulic lifter can pump up whatever preload you put into it, therefore with excessive preload, as the engine RPM and oil pressure increases, the hydraulic mechanism will pump-up the pushrod seat. This will cause the valve to be open longer and lift higher. This will decrease the cylinder pressure, lowering the performance of the engine. If the preload is excessive it may cause backfiring from the engine.

Methods to Adjust for Proper Hydraulic Lifter Preload
Hydraulic Lifters Can Be Adjusted at Any Engine Temperature Since hydraulic lifters can compensate for thermal expansion of the engine, the adjusting can be done with the engine cold; hot adjustment is not necessary. Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload: In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or Heel of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinders “intake” rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

2. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

3. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at Zero Lash. Turn the adjusting nut down one quarter (1/4), or one half turn (1/2) from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly. Most high performance applications use ¼ turn.

4. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When that intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the “exhaust” rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

5. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil? Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a solid and prevent obtaining proper preload.

 

ok that only confused me more.. So the first time you said wait till the intake opens and then closes then 1/4 turn and adjust both valves.

And in the one he posted it tells me to do it the way i did it the first time. Waiting till the exhaust opens then adjust the intake. Then wait for the intake to open and almost close and then adjust the exhaust..


Am i reading into this or is that not right?