Valvetrain Noise and Adjusting 1.6 RR's
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 852
From: Las Vegas, NV, USA
Valvetrain Noise and Adjusting 1.6 RR's
Is there a feeler *sp* gauge gap that can be used like on fords? I have tried it by the book, and it gets them too tight and the motor won't fire. So I am trying to do it with the motor running. I am thinking about doing it by yanking the intake and setting it all up like that.. Help guys..
Last edited by SVT Killer LV; Jun 1, 2003 at 11:50 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,725
From: Little Rock, AR
A feeler gauge is not used with the hydraulic roller lifters on the LT1. Set them to zero lash and then add the desired preload.
I use a feeler gauge to set the solid lifters on my big block car if that makes you feel any better.
I use a feeler gauge to set the solid lifters on my big block car if that makes you feel any better.
Banned
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,090
why you gonna take the intake off? that wont help anything. spin the pushrod and tighten nut until you feel light resistance and go 1/8-1/6 turn more and tighten down locks. ofcourse you need to have the valves int he right places, check out shoeboxs site for that.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 295
From: Columbus, Ohio
Do it with the car running, valve covers off, thats it. Not much oil spurts out, don't worry.
First get them loosened up a bit if you have them that tight. When the pushrod won't move is pretty close. Start the car and listen. It's tough to hear one clack if they all clack, so make sure you have them all "overtight" before you start adjusting each one. The engine rpms will dip if you get them way too tight.
Start the car, and do them one at a time. Loosen it till it clacks, then tighten it until it doesn't, then turn 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock it down, then do the next one.
First get them loosened up a bit if you have them that tight. When the pushrod won't move is pretty close. Start the car and listen. It's tough to hear one clack if they all clack, so make sure you have them all "overtight" before you start adjusting each one. The engine rpms will dip if you get them way too tight.
Start the car, and do them one at a time. Loosen it till it clacks, then tighten it until it doesn't, then turn 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock it down, then do the next one.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
Do you lock them and then try and turn them a little more on the nuts? Thats how whoever did mine, and it is way too tight... I'm about to go redo it right now, but I just was wondering do I go the 1/2 turn or less, and then lock it down or do you add 1/16 or so of a turn after it is locked? I dont wanna do em again... this is time 3 or 4 hehe..
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,406
From: Downey, CA
Just do it with the motor off using the standard procedure:
w/ engine at TDC #1 set E 1, 3, 4, 8 and I 1, 2, 5, 7
w/engine at TDC #6 set E 2, 5, 6, 7 and I 3, 4, 6, 8
The lash is a subject for about 5 pages of discussion.
Anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1.5 turns with most in the
1/2 to 3/4 area. Personally I'm set to 1.25 right now
and it does not seem to be a problem.
w/ engine at TDC #1 set E 1, 3, 4, 8 and I 1, 2, 5, 7
w/engine at TDC #6 set E 2, 5, 6, 7 and I 3, 4, 6, 8
The lash is a subject for about 5 pages of discussion.
Anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1.5 turns with most in the
1/2 to 3/4 area. Personally I'm set to 1.25 right now
and it does not seem to be a problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post