My nightmare continues on this FI LT1 build. I fixed one problem by getting new heads and that has created atleast 2 new problems. The main problem right now is the stock valve covers no longer clear the nuts on my 1.6 Comp Cams rockers.
Relocating the alternator is not an option due to the turbo cross over pipes. I have read just about everything in the archives on this, but pics of needed alternator modifications are no longer valid links.
You guys who are experienced with this, what works best? I know Canton makes a set for $200+ but they don't seem to clear too well either.

 

I got a set of tall covers and cut out the area needed to clear the alternator. I then had a buddy weld up the area I had cut out. Sorry if that isn't a great description.

Rich

 

if you are talking about the polylock nut how much is it hitting? i thought mine was hitting real bad but they were only scraping. some strategic grinding on the ribs that were getting hit fixed the problem.

 

Well, I guess I haven't come up with a great way to measure how much is hitting, but I would certainly like to know. It appears about 1/4" is needed before the cover and gasket actually sit on the cylinder head.

Rich, that seems like a logical resolution of this problem, and it may be what I have to do. Although, if the Proforms (#141-130) will clear the rockers, it doesn't look like much work to make it clear the alternator. Your aluminum valve covers which you cut and welded, were they fabricated aluminum or cast?

 

These Proforms are over .5"+ (1/2 inch +) over the stock valve covers and you can still use the factory alternator location. I'm running them with Jesel shaft rockers. But I don't have the Proform part number handy.

Here are some photos that also show show what I did to clearance the alternator.

WD

 

I had this issue and I bought shorter rocker arm nuts and used stock valve covers.

 

Are they still the Allen-screw polylock type? And if so, what brand?

WD

 

WD, thank you. As far as valve covers go, I think this is the simplest and cheapst option. Do you have any pics of the inside of these covers, or any opinion on whether these will clear the 1.6 Pro Mags around the inner structure area? As you know, the stock structural members usually have to be bent into a flatter configuration or cut off...I wonder if I'll have the same problem with these?

Luckyou03, I also am interested in these small nuts of your's....please share more info about them if you have any. This sounds like the easiest and cheapest solution and could help many other people who come across this thread later.

 

Oh, btw, I took some measurements the best I could. It appears I'm about .227" short on the valve cover height by my calculations and measurements. Add a little clearance and it looks like I need atleast .300" taller on the valve cover or shorter on the nut.

 

Stamped steel. I have also just seen them "massaged" with a hammer.

Rich

 

lt4 valve covers will do the trick, the ones pictured above are nice if you have the cash for them, if not use the lt4's, i have lt4's on my 355 and am very happy with them.

 

put some modeling clay in there and see exactly what you have.

 

These heads are proving to be more of pain in the *** then they are worth!

 

no doubt. ...and it all started with my choice of valve spring which required machining the stock valve guides to fit a smaller diameter on the stock heads last year. Its definately frustrating, although, I have always wanted a set of polished aluminum valve covers

I think I just needed an LSX! It may have looked more expensive in the beginning, but with all the special LT1 quirks I've had to deal with, this thing is a PITA to modify.

 

The cast aluminum Proforms "do not" have any internal structural bracing (an open interior box basically). The aluminum casting (side-wall thickness) provides sufficient structure.

WD