I am doing some upgrades on my bird in the next 2 months and have decided to get some 1.6 RRs as well. I am running the stock cam and will be for atleast 6 more months. I shift at 6K in my auto so my RPMs never get to high.

So my questions are:
Can I buy self aligning RRs but still install guide plates?

Do I need new springs if I am running 1.6RRs and just the stock cam?

Should I get any addition parts with the new rockers like studs, adjustable nuts etc.

I am thinking some new hardened pushrods and some springs would be cheap insurance, but didn't know what to look for strength wise. So any suggestions would be great. Any help would be great.

 

Guide plates are only needed for non-self aligning RR's like the Comp Cams Pro Magnums. Guideplates also require the use of hardened pushrods; the 94 came with hardened pushrods from the factory.

I would definitely replace your valve springs to prevent coil bind. My friend installed Crane Gold 1.6 RR's on a stock cam. 10K miles later he had a bad tapping noise; the ball tips of 2 of his pushrods broke off due to coil bind

 

Thats cool that they came with hardened push rods.

I have been told by many many members here that I should never use a self aligning rocker arm. That they are dangerous, and that I should install guide plates. I assume they ment at much higher RPMs and with a much larger camshaft then what I am going to.

Any suggestions on a coil spring? I will eventually upgrade my cam, but will more then likely get new springs to match my new cam. So for now I will get some to go with a stock cam and the 1.6's.

Oh yeah, anyone know how much wieght is saved from going to full aluminum RRs from the stockers?

 

One or the other--don't use guide plates with SA RRs. Why?----because one method would be fighting the other method. I.e, the guide plates would be fighting to keep the rods aligned with the RRs and the valve tips while the roller guides on the SA rollers would be fighting to keep the rollers on the valve tips.

Choose some springs that are required for a cam that "you intend" to install based on intended use of your vehicle. Stock springs are marginal to begin with and probably hamper your power at upper RPM when they float.

Do it right. Pay now or pay later. JMHO

 

If you don't plan on camming the car one day, then the SA rockers will suit you fine, but as mentioned above, guide plates are not needed. A valve spring upgrade will definitely be needed,pushrods as mentioned, and it wouldn't hurt to upgrade the studs to a set of ARPs.

 

If you want to go low cost now and replace again later then the LT4
springs are perfect for 1.6 rockers and a stock cam.

 

I would suggest looking into the comp 918 beehives, good to .600 lift, i run my cc306 to 7k with 1.6 promags an no sign of valve float...

 

if you are keeping the stock cam then sa rockers, one piece hardened pushrods lt4 springs will be just fine.
i had a similar setup and mods to what you have, and the daily abuse of high revs never did anything except snap my timing chain.
BTW if you are doing this I would HIGHLY recommend putting a new timing chain and gears especially if your car has some miles on it and its original.
lt4 springs and 1.6 rockers will add extra stress.

 

I have gone with the Proform 1.6 RRs, LT4 springs, retainers, caps, locks, new valve seals etc etc everything but valves and pushrods. Ill inspect the push rods before installing everything, replace if they need it otherwise I will reuse them.

When it comes time to cam, I plan to tear down the whole engine and build up it completely.

 

No need to replace the valves so there is some money saved.

 

I HEAR YA!!

Considering I am also doing a complete rear end rebuild including all bearings, 3.73 gear install, and complete 4 wheel brake upgrade in addtion to the valvetrain stuff every dollar counts.