DougsZ28Camaro

I'm looking at buying some ASP pulleys. Problem is I'm not sure as to which one to buy??

Pulleys Part No Price
ASP LT-1 2 pulley Kit 34% Crank, 15% alt 003665 $99.95
ASP LT-1 pulley 23% Crank ''Nitride'' 003667 $144.95
ASP LT-1 pulley 23% Crank, 15% Alt ''Nitride'' 003668 $164.95
ASP LT-1 pulley 34% Crank 003666 $79.95

I'm putting a new 383 Stroker in my car which is going to have 430-500hp to the flywheel. So which of those would be the best to go with?

ABA383

I got mine a long time ago, but its the 23% crank balancer/pulley combo...been flawless for I think 10 years or so...never dyno'd before and after, but car seemed to rev faster...Maybe it was just me...ASP makes some quality stuff, though...

--Alan

ZL1modified

ASP LT-1 pulley 23% Crank, 15% Alt ''Nitride'' 003668 $164.95

these are nice 900 rpm charge...

Injuneer

I'd skip the U/D pullies due to the very limited HP gains available, and use an ATI SFI-rated Super Damper on a high perfromance 383.

DougsZ28Camaro

I'm sorry Injuneer, Could you please explain what that is? and where i can buy one?

96SweetTa

I don't really want to hijack this thread, but have been a little weary about underdrive pulleys.

My question is, is there anywhere I can get stock pulleys in billet or a little more dressed up than the stock black or rusted pulleys?

Heatmaker

listen to this guy.

Injuneer

Here's a dyno test of an U/D pulley on an LT1:

http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm

PEAK HP gain is 0.7 HP. A bit more on the average, but still not much. A "sandwich" style pulley adds weight/mass so its not helpnig very much. The LT1 water pump is gear driven, not belt driven, so there's not much power to be saved with the pulley.

The ASP "intgrated pulley/damper" (the more expensive one listed) is a full replacement for your stock pulley/damper. That's a better choice than the "sandwich" if you have to have one. I had the ASP 23%/15% damper/alternator combo, and couldn't measure any HP gains. But even with the 800RPM idle of the M6, it wasn't unusual for the system voltage to dive toward the red while the car was stopped in traffic with the A/C and brake lights on.

When you build an engine that operates at higher RPM than the stocker, you need a higher quality damper to protect your crankshaft. The two most popular ones are the ATI Super Damper and the Fluidampr. Seems like people love one of those, and hate the other. The shop that built my engine would not use the Fluidampr. They had heard too many people complaining about broken crank snouts with the Fluidampr, during a presentation by Fluidampr at a SEMA or some other high perofrmance parts show. Fluidampr eventually went bankrupt, and has been purchased by someone else who is now selling their products. You can find "Fluid Dampers" on eBay, but they are counterfeit or rip-off copies of the Fluidampr products.

A have the ATI. Its good for engines that are pushing 7,000RPM and above. Its "tuned" to work betted than the stocker at high RPM. The "SFI" safety rating is required by racing organizations like NHRA for cars running faster than 11.00 seconds in the 1/4-mile. SFI certification tells you the damper isn't going to explode at high RPM.

The ATI damper is avialable in 10% U/D.

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co...ts/damserp.htm

Dampers 101:

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co.../101/index.htm

The dangers of "power pullies":

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co...mper_dinan.htm

DougsZ28Camaro

Ok, Injuneer I read all of those articles very interesting stuff! Which one of the dampers would I need then? 94 Lt1 is what I drive soon to have a 383 Lt1. Also would there be any HP gain?

Critter

not much more than 1 or 2 hp. not worth it imo

Injuneer

I think you're asking will there be any HP gain with the ATI, since you've already got a link to dyno test for the sandwich type damper. You are not going to see any HP gain from the ATI, unless you choose the U/D version, in which case you may still get the miniscule gains reported in the dyno test. You don't spend $350 on an ATI for "HP", you spend it to protect your crankshaft.

speed_demon24

I have an ASP 23% pulley, its a real nice piece and everything, but the only reason I got it is for the racetrack(road coarse) to slow down the accessories, mostly the powersteering pump to help keep it from overheating. I highly doubt slowing down the alternator and powersteering pump going straight is going to give you very much hp at all, maybe a little more than the one on that dyno test since its not a piggy back, but there are alot better places to spend it.