tubular k-member guys... How do you jack up?
BMR here, dont like the AJE, doesnt seem as beefy as the BMR probly lighter though.
I jacked the car up with no motor once and used a block of wood about as wide as the kmember on top of the floor jack. Not sure what ill do with motor yet. now i have rollbar so dont have to worry about flexing frame if jacking from other points besides middle.
I jacked the car up with no motor once and used a block of wood about as wide as the kmember on top of the floor jack. Not sure what ill do with motor yet. now i have rollbar so dont have to worry about flexing frame if jacking from other points besides middle.
Get the car itself on jackstands. 6 ton stands mind you, the big ones. (about 18 inches or more in the air). Then jack the motor up by the oil pan(only an inch or so). Use wide flat wood on your jack to spread the load over the entire pan. Unbolt old Kmember. Bolt new one in. Bolt up everything to Kmember. Last, let motor back down and bolt it up. Jack car off of jackstands.
What I meant was... after all is set and done.. How do you guys jack up your car? I feel a bit uneasy doing it by a new k-member
Are there any weight savings of going to a chromemoly one?
For 25 pounds its not that cost effective.. I thought that WITH the A-arms there was a total savings of about 85lbs on the car...
Let me know
Are there any weight savings of going to a chromemoly one?
For 25 pounds its not that cost effective.. I thought that WITH the A-arms there was a total savings of about 85lbs on the car...
Let me know
They say the kmember aarms and lightweight brakes you can lose that much. The aarms dont really lose that much, they are prety light as it is, especially the upper, you would actually probly gain weight on the uppers. Im saying the kmember is at least 50lbs stock, and even for 25lbs, where else can you lose that much weight with one item once youve done all the little things for that price. Rims lose more but also cost over 1500
Originally posted by jonaddis84
They say the kmember aarms and lightweight brakes you can lose that much. The aarms dont really lose that much, they are prety light as it is, especially the upper, you would actually probly gain weight on the uppers. Im saying the kmember is at least 50lbs stock, and even for 25lbs, where else can you lose that much weight with one item once youve done all the little things for that price. Rims lose more but also cost over 1500
They say the kmember aarms and lightweight brakes you can lose that much. The aarms dont really lose that much, they are prety light as it is, especially the upper, you would actually probly gain weight on the uppers. Im saying the kmember is at least 50lbs stock, and even for 25lbs, where else can you lose that much weight with one item once youve done all the little things for that price. Rims lose more but also cost over 1500
I got ZR1 rims... and they dont loose that much from what is posted on brents page
I have the BMR k-member, and I have jacked the car up with the jack on the k-member. I just put a rag on the pad of the jack and raised it like I always have. It doesn`t seem to be doing any damage to it.
maybe write BMR and see what they say.
Kevin
maybe write BMR and see what they say.
Kevin
I didnt mean rims like that, I meant draglite rims, like Bogarts that they say you can lose almost 300lbs, not truly 300 but a calcluated 300 since its unsprung and rotational weight.
Any weight off the front of the car is for the best in dragracing. The faster and better you transfer the weight to the back the better your gonna hook
Any weight off the front of the car is for the best in dragracing. The faster and better you transfer the weight to the back the better your gonna hook
Originally posted by Heatmaker
What are the advantages of loosing the stock K-member?
ET drops? steering?
What are the advantages of loosing the stock K-member?
ET drops? steering?
AFAIK, all a tubular K-member does on an F-Car is provide weight reduction (and, coincidentally, more work room when doing plugs and wires). If you search, a couple of guys with the PA's have reported that the engine gets moved back roughly 1/2"-1".
I started a thread a while back when I was toying with doing a K-member over winter. After pulling my hair out for a while I decided on BMR, only to change my mind again when Louis [Gigliotti] told me about the LG version that was coming out in the spring.
I weighed out a savings of 34 pounds with mine. I jacked up my motor on the balencer everything was fine after but its not the smartest thing to do. Others have done the same way with no problems. I could not jack up my motor's oil pan because the stock k-member is completly in the way.
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