K, time to change my coolant. I should have done it when I changed my waterpump last year but I figured why not put the coolant back in since I caught most of it anyways in drain pans.

So I figured this would be something to do on this Sunday afternoon. Boy what a mistake that was.

How can you possibly get to the block drain plug on the driver side? Where its positioned theres no gettin a socket on it.

Anyways I tried flushing the system by draining, adding water, running, draining, etc etc. to the point the coolant was getting clearer.

Well anyways now when I try to run the car with new coolant added, if I leave the rad cap off once she reaches perating temps the coolant boils out of the rad cap, maybe I added too much? Either way my temps rise, and rise and rise.

I searched the archives high and low. I've gotten a couple of procedures as well. I'm thinking of starting from scratch again, but I need to know how you got that driver side block drain plug off. I didn't think it'd be so far up and out of the way. Shoulda known better with these cars. I had my coolant system done in like 1/2 an hour in my Explorer.

I don't understand why my temps are rising so fast, blah. I never let the needle get anywhere near the red zone but it was inevitable.

Anyways, I'm not going any further till the powers of this board help me


thanks,

lbrowne

 

Did you "Bleed" the system, close it, and open the little screw next to the rad cap? You will need to do this to bleed any air outta the system.

BadRag

 

The radiator needs the pressure cap on to operate correctly. The LT1 cooling system is pressurized to about 18 PSI. If you try to run with it off it is not going to work very well.

I would use a flushing kit instead of trying to drain the block. The drain plug on the drivers side only drains half the block. You would also have to remove the knock sensor on the passenger side to drain it completly. A flushing kit costs a few bucks and its pretty straight forward and easy to use.

 

yea, you prolly got air pockets in the system, so heres what you do... 1. put the radiator cap on. 2. start the engine 3. observe temp 4. open bleeder caps until all air is out, you will know when a little coolant will mist out of there 5. close bleeder caps 6. observe temp (NOTE: it should go back to normal in a few minutes) 7. badda boom badda bing, youre done !

if this doesnt help you then rewrite this post titled SHOEBOX HELP!!!!!

 

alright thnx guys, I'll try this tomorrow when I get home form work.

 

You should have the bleed screws open when you fill the system. You will hear the air escape as you add fluid. That gets most of the air out right there.

 

There are TWO bleeder valves. Also, you must have have the radiator cap on to pressurize the system. When you activate the bleeder valves, be sure to have a rag to catch the coolant so it doesn't drip on the opti.

Flushing is a good idea. Also, don't leave hose water in the cooling systems as it will leave deposits. Buy some Distilled Water from the Grocery Store and use that with the coolant mix.

 

Dang dial up connection. It is as slow as a mustang. By the time I get a change to response, twenty people have already been up there. LOL....

 

I agree that driverside block drain plug is unusable. I got the knock sensor out with ease, but I wasn't sure if visegrips and a hammer could be used on the driver side cause that's what it seemed it would take for me. I even went out and bought a fancy hinged socket but couldn't get enough torque on it.

Anybody able to get that drain open?

 

I got the driver's side out no prob[replaced with brass]
If I recall a simple combination wrench worked[add leverage if needed]
The knock sensor, however was another story ..
Very tight.. in fact I left it since I didn't want to destroy it..

 

I got the drain plug out on the driver's side without too many problems. However, trying to get the screw back in was a bi*ch. Flush kit is in my future for the next time around.

 

I took and end wrench and bent it with a torch until I could finally get the damy thing out. Getting it back in was another story-it took about an hour and a half. I don't think I'll ever have the nerve to take it out again.

 

Its 10:15 am here, so I'm still at work till 4:30.

NAPA just quoted me $7.29 for a coolant system flush kit. That can't be right. I swear it was more than that.

The 2 bleed screws are right on top correct? One very close to the Thermostat and the other on a separate hose/pipe about almost a foot or not even away from the first one towards the the direction of the battery....

I'm glad I'm not the only one who said f -it on that driver side plug.

BTW: I bought Quaker State coolant that meets or exceeds GM spec and mixed it with Deionized Water.

How much does the coolant system hold?

 

Total capacity is 15.1 qts for A4 and 15.3 for M6..

 

Is there a way to drain the overflow reservoir?

How many of those Coolant jugs is 15 odd quarts I wonder...