True duals or Mufflex 4" ???
True duals or Mufflex 4" ???
I am just finishing up my stroker project and getting ready to go ahead with the exhaust. I had already decided to go with 2.5 duals out the back (over axle) but the more I search and read up on it - I think I might have to go with the single 4".
My car is a 96 z28 dropped (springs) about 1.5" - I am going to be running a 383 stroker with a vortech s/c with 10lbs of boost. Looking to make a honest 500+hp at the rear wheels. Do you guys think this set-up is too much for the 2.5 true duals and I should go with the single 4" - or - should I weld in some cut-outs and just go true duals?
Thanks for all the help,
Paul
My car is a 96 z28 dropped (springs) about 1.5" - I am going to be running a 383 stroker with a vortech s/c with 10lbs of boost. Looking to make a honest 500+hp at the rear wheels. Do you guys think this set-up is too much for the 2.5 true duals and I should go with the single 4" - or - should I weld in some cut-outs and just go true duals?
Thanks for all the help,
Paul
I would like to go with the 3" duals but I have been told that you cannot run the 3" over the axle and out the back. I don't want to just dump it infront of the axle either, because I have heard it fills the body with exhaust fumes and is louder than hell.
Also - where do I pick up a mufflex kit at?
Also - where do I pick up a mufflex kit at?
i had 3" dual side exhaust. was really loud and i loved it but had no ground clearance.
i picked up a 4" y-pipe and it's not as loud but its a lot smoother to drive and it feels faster.
go with the y-pipe
i have 4" y=pipe and 3" exhaust all the way back. came with the SS package. fits fine, hard to get on and off.
i picked up a 4" y-pipe and it's not as loud but its a lot smoother to drive and it feels faster.
go with the y-pipe
i have 4" y=pipe and 3" exhaust all the way back. came with the SS package. fits fine, hard to get on and off.
O.K. - this might be a stupid question but - With my supercharger, do I want to go with the 4" or should I go 3.5 and have a little more back pressure?
I know that I should probabally go 4" because the estimate of 500 hp is a very low estimate. I have found a 3.5" for like 250.00 with the y-pipe and if I get a 4" it'll be close to a grand for everything before the install.
I guess my question is - is it really worth the extra 800.00 for a extra .5"??
Thanks
Paul
I know that I should probabally go 4" because the estimate of 500 hp is a very low estimate. I have found a 3.5" for like 250.00 with the y-pipe and if I get a 4" it'll be close to a grand for everything before the install.
I guess my question is - is it really worth the extra 800.00 for a extra .5"??
Thanks
Paul
I look at it this way.
What do the guys running 9's use?
Do you even have close to those power #'s to run those times?
Is my combo remotely like theirs so do I need similar exhausts?
Then you will answer your own question.
I will be going with a 3-1/2" system myself.
What do the guys running 9's use?
Do you even have close to those power #'s to run those times?
Is my combo remotely like theirs so do I need similar exhausts?
Then you will answer your own question.
I will be going with a 3-1/2" system myself.
My set-up I will be running:
383 Stroker
callies crank
eagle rods
j&e Blower Pistons
Splayed Main caps
Comp Cams custom cam -Basically a cc306 with a 114 lsa for the blower
Stock lt4 heads - fully ported, port matched and 64 cc's, blower valves/springs
Vortech t-trim with pullies making 10 lbs of boost.
Hooker L/T headers
polished 52mm t/body - with ported intake
What do ya think?
I was told By another board member that the only way I would see a serious gain is if I would be using the car in a long road race - not a 9-10 second run at the track. That generally, it would be fine with a 3.5 but for top speeds on long races, which I don't do - go 4".
Could you guys hook me up with a link or two so I could look at other board member's cars and compare?
Thanks
Paul
383 Stroker
callies crank
eagle rods
j&e Blower Pistons
Splayed Main caps
Comp Cams custom cam -Basically a cc306 with a 114 lsa for the blower
Stock lt4 heads - fully ported, port matched and 64 cc's, blower valves/springs
Vortech t-trim with pullies making 10 lbs of boost.
Hooker L/T headers
polished 52mm t/body - with ported intake
What do ya think?
I was told By another board member that the only way I would see a serious gain is if I would be using the car in a long road race - not a 9-10 second run at the track. That generally, it would be fine with a 3.5 but for top speeds on long races, which I don't do - go 4".
Could you guys hook me up with a link or two so I could look at other board member's cars and compare?
Thanks
Paul
Here's a link to a Mufflex 4" user......
.
I will admit, after the 9.11-sec pass, he did remove the Mufflex 4". And then he ran 9.04..... but he only removed the Mufflex to save the 50# weight, and found no HP on the dyno when he switched to a system with Borla XR-1 shorties on the collectors, and 90-deg turndowns on the Borlas.... nothing else.
Wann see what a Mufflex looks like when its blowing the rust out of the system after sitting for a long winter......
Rust cloud.....
.I will admit, after the 9.11-sec pass, he did remove the Mufflex 4". And then he ran 9.04..... but he only removed the Mufflex to save the 50# weight, and found no HP on the dyno when he switched to a system with Borla XR-1 shorties on the collectors, and 90-deg turndowns on the Borlas.... nothing else.
Wann see what a Mufflex looks like when its blowing the rust out of the system after sitting for a long winter......
Rust cloud.....
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