EDS Z28

I'm trying to change out the valve springs with the heads on the car due to a new cam, CC 224/236 blower cam. What a pain in the *** this is. I think it may be easier to remove the motor.

I tried to use the stud mount type compressor from Summit. It takes off the springs just fine. The ****ing problem is installing them. When you compress the spring, it tends to deflect toward the rocker stud, allowing room for only one keeper. It's probably because there are compound angles involved here...one for the rocker stud and one for the valve and spring. I also tried that cheap tool from Autozone. That didn't work because I need to install beehive valve springs. It would have worked for a regular type spring. Now I'm wondering if these beehives are worth all the trouble.

The other problem I will have soon is reinstalling the timing cover. How do you do this, lower the oil pan or cut the gasket? The mechanical spline shaft has been removed from the block. My bro is cnc machining my cover for clearance for the rollmaster double roller chain, a work of art.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Have a good night.
Ed

OBE1 95Z28

Napa carries a pretty good valve spring tool made by KD Tools P/N 2078 (screw down type) that's worked well for me.

I would drop the oil pan to properly install the timing chain cover; if you develop a leak from cutting the lip off, it will haunt you forever!

foxbat

KD tool with the removble plastic handle that also takes a ratchet and slams everything in nice and fast. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd3271.html

rpm4lalo

I used a proform stud type tool and it was a pain as well, I ended up having to have some help. As I started to compress the spring a buddy would use a pair of long needle nose pliers that he keep closed as a pry bar to keep the spring aligned as I compress it.

For the springs under the cowl I had to modify my spring compressor handle a bit to get enough leverage for the dual springs to compress.

EDS Z28

Thanks for the reply guys.

I have decided after all to pull the motor and do some other work on it. I don't want it breaking again. The stock crank is over 10 years old too, with some pretty hard street use. My plans are too keep the 355 cid (reuse my existing H-beam rods and speed pro blower pistons which would require no more bore work), add a 4340 forged crank (probably eagle), 4 bolt main conversion, steel flywheel, and possibly some trick flow heads.

Any suggestions for the new crank?