tranny turmoil
05-19-2003, 06:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 780
tranny turmoil
yeah, well, my tranny ate my breakfast, lunch, AND dinner...not only is it driving me crazy, the guy who rebuilt it isnt happy either.
the damn thing starts in 2nd, and shifts to 3rd, and then that's it...it doesnt go into 1st, or OD. the tranny is being told to shift by the signal, but it's not shifting. changed the solinods, clutches, evac....
the guy who rebuilt it (charles) cant figure it out why it's not shifting.
does anyone have a good shop that i can take it to, somewhere in the DFW area? hopefully, either in arlington, or, fort worth, but depending on how far it is, i might be able to take it elsewhere.
i'd really appreciate the help.
--shokor--
the damn thing starts in 2nd, and shifts to 3rd, and then that's it...it doesnt go into 1st, or OD. the tranny is being told to shift by the signal, but it's not shifting. changed the solinods, clutches, evac....
the guy who rebuilt it (charles) cant figure it out why it's not shifting.
does anyone have a good shop that i can take it to, somewhere in the DFW area? hopefully, either in arlington, or, fort worth, but depending on how far it is, i might be able to take it elsewhere.
i'd really appreciate the help.
--shokor--
05-19-2003, 10:27 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 161
Sounds like your 1-2 solenoid isn't working. Even if your 1-2 shift valve was sticking you would still get 4th because the fluid at the sol. backfeeds to the 3-4 shift valve without moving the 1-2 valve when commanding 4th. The shifting logic is:
sol. state 1-2 , 3-4
1st on on
2nd off on
3rd off off
4th on off
So, if your 1-2 isn't working, and remains off all of the time, it would give you a 2nd gear start and 3rd gear upshift only.
Try putting a current probe (inductive amp meter) on the 1-2 sol. wire and check for current flow when it is commanded on, about 1 amp. If you don't have a current probe then volt. drop the grd side of the circuit. You roughly should see 12v off, 0v on. You may have a poor connection somewhere. Try checking the resistance from the fuse to the pin at the pcm for the 1-2 sol., you should have about 12 ohms. Good luck.
sol. state 1-2 , 3-4
1st on on
2nd off on
3rd off off
4th on off
So, if your 1-2 isn't working, and remains off all of the time, it would give you a 2nd gear start and 3rd gear upshift only.
Try putting a current probe (inductive amp meter) on the 1-2 sol. wire and check for current flow when it is commanded on, about 1 amp. If you don't have a current probe then volt. drop the grd side of the circuit. You roughly should see 12v off, 0v on. You may have a poor connection somewhere. Try checking the resistance from the fuse to the pin at the pcm for the 1-2 sol., you should have about 12 ohms. Good luck.
05-20-2003, 12:04 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 780
nope, the valvebody is fine. and we the solinoids were changed.
and as far as a bad connection--when he hooked the car up to his tranny computer, the computer was showing that the tranny was being told to shift...it just wasnt listening.
with the tranny computer, he could manually put the car into first and OD, but it wont shift by itself.
and as far as a bad connection--when he hooked the car up to his tranny computer, the computer was showing that the tranny was being told to shift...it just wasnt listening.
with the tranny computer, he could manually put the car into first and OD, but it wont shift by itself.
05-20-2003, 04:50 PM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
Where is he hooking his breakout box? At the transmission case connector? If so then everything in the transmission has to be capable of working if you can make it have 1st and 4th through the box.
Frank
Frank
05-20-2003, 08:13 PM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 780
i still havent talked to him, but from what i remember, i think he told me that some part of either the tranny or the driveshaft was hitting the underside of the car...i'll be sure by tonight, once i ask him.
shokor
shokor
05-23-2003, 10:41 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 161
You can put 100 good solenoids on a bad electrical circuit and they will not work if they aren't properly grounding through the pcm. If you have high resistance on the power or ground side it won't be enough to hold the fluid back through the solenoid. That's why I suggest a volt drop, it's the only accurate way to tell if the circuit is good. If you pull the valve body off again the check the AFL (actuator feed limit) hole above the 1-2 shift sol. passage. If the AFL hole is plugged then the fluid will not get to the shift solenoid. This hole is in the spacer plate. Did you ever pull that off when you did the valve body? Debris in the case passage can cause alot of problems. Pull your shifter into L1, do you get a first gear start? If not, your 1-2 shift valve is not moving!!! Reread the above paragraph. Try pulling the solenoid when the valve body is bolted to the case, can you still move the valve? Sometimes the tightening of the bolts will pinch a shift valve in the bore. Are you sure the trans is actually shifting 2nd and 3rd and not 2nd and 4th? If it's shifting 2nd and 4th then check the valve body bolts. If they are in the wrong holes it will lock the reaction sun shell, giving you 2nd and 4th, it's the same as keeping the band on. Good luck
05-23-2003, 10:55 PM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 780
well, i gave up and took it to a tranny guru...he opened it and told me that the rebuild was done poorly. he said that some parts were installed incorrectly/backwards and such...and that the tranny has overheated and is fried. the clutches had started tearing apart, and they have gone through the tc, so the tc is dirty too.
so, i have to buy a new tranny.
life is so pfhucking hollow.
so, i have to buy a new tranny.
life is so pfhucking hollow.
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