i'm a first time engine builder
i installed my crank after checking clearances
its hard to turn my crank with a 3/8 ratched on the nose, so i put my torque wrench on the lowest setting (10) and the crank spins easier and doesnt make the wrench click, so it definately takes less than 10ft-lbs

checking my clearances didnt work as well as i'd like, i'm using telescoping guages and a digital caliper to measure the inner diameter of the bearings but i feel i'm not very good with the telescoping guage. my measurments came out to .001" clearance at each bearing, which doesnt seem right. its supposed to be .002"-.0035" right?

the crank has been polished
the crank is straight, (less than .001" runout as measured from 3rd main journal with dial indicator when spun on #1 and #5 bearings)
i'm using stock caps with arp studs and std size bearings

what could be wrong?

i forgot to mention, i'm using lucas oil stabilizer for assembly lube

 

If you don't have the correct micrometers , you can use plasti guage to get a good idea of what the clearances are, the auto parts store should carry it. It should turn over by hand with a small amount of turning resistance, once the pistons are installed you will need the ratchet to turn it over, are they installed?

 

no, no pistons installed

i'm re-using the stock caps in the stock locations so they shouldnt need align boring right?

i'm also told that the torque to turn the engine over with all 8 pistons installed should not be greater than 40 ft-lbs,

 

something is wrong, you should be able to take a breaker bar size 1/2 racthet on the hub, hold it at 1 o'clock and let it go and it should be able to spin, thats how i was taught.

 

Yeah, it should pretty much free spin.

 

ok, any ideas what might be wrong?

 

You need an align-hone after installing main studs, you are binding up somewhere.

Use clevite bearing lube, not some "oil stabilizer"

 

i'm going to remove the studs and install the original bolts just to see if this eliminates the binding

 

Yeah if you move to a stud over a bolt it distorts the cap differently. You would be amazed.

 

yep, if you switch to studs you have to align hone... I had to anyway....

 

To answer the first question, I use a 1/2" long handle ratchet to turn the engine over with a fixture for the rear of the motor. Placing the ratchet in the 1-2 o'clock position and letting it go spins the crank over no problem with just the weight of the ratchet.

As for the Lucas lubricant, ditch that and gets yourself some Clevite Bearing guard, best stuff on the market in my opinion.

Also if you want to check your accuracy with the telescoping gauge and mic, remove the crank and bearings. Torque up the mains and measure the main bore housing. Take three measurements, 10 o'clock-12 o'clock-2 o'clock. Depending on these measurements you will be able to determine if the main bore is out of round and also out of tolerance.

If you'd like you can post the measurements and I'll give you my opinion, as I'm sure others will chime in as well.

Most importantly in any engine assembly, if you feel your measurements are in question enlist the services of a professional. Being too pridefull to ask for help is one of the biggest and most expensive mistakes you can make in the engine game. Good Luck!

 

thank you very much for that post
what i did was bring my block to my machine shop and i explained my problem to my machinst and told him i needed the block align honed
he told me to bring in my crank so he can check the clearances
he checked everything and everything was fine and when using motor oil the crank spins freely. i dont need the block align honed even with the studs installed
its just that the lucas was so thick it slowed everything down

he told me i have .001-.0015" clearance at all the journals
i got a dial bore guage comming in the mail so i'm gonna double check all the measurements again
i'm using .001"oversize bearings, so if i use standard size bearings i should get clearances around .002-.0025" and thats better for a high-revving street motor right?

 

.002-.0025 with a standard volume oil pump will be fine.