I'm looking to freshen my top end over the winter. Since the car will be garaged the whole time, I would like to remove the heads, have some porting and polishing done, then while I'm in there, get a new cam, hardened push rods, new lifters, springs, RRs, and valves, injectors, fuel pump, better flowing headers.
So i've been boucing around the board reading random threads and I came to realize that there's a ton of calculations and precise measurements which need to be done when planning the project and ordering the parts. Are there any resources out there with guidelines or information specific to lt1s? Essentially, i hold my own with engine work if I have some good resources at my finger tips. Any information would be great, maybe even your shopping list and any challenges you had during the build...but I'm really looking more to understand what I'm going to be doing rather then just making a shopping list.
Just a little about my goals. I'm not looking to push the extreme here...I don't go to the track, I just really love this car and engine and it's a cool project to keep myself on the up and up. Eventually I want to forge the bottom end and go FI, but that's WAY down the line. I also understand that some of the parts/work I'm doing here are going to have to be changed down the line, but I'm OK with that.

Thanks,
-mj

 

Check Shoebox's website for some good info...

I did the same thing you plan on doing (except the cam, damn new jersey emissions, i don't want to be limited in cam choice!) two months ago, so PM me with any questions you may have, I know a few ways to overcome pain in the butt parts of the teardown such as those damn banjo bolts on the back of the heads

Anyway, shoot me a PM with any specific concerns about it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I checked Shoebox's site and found the proceedure for the project. I still have some basic parts questions though. I'm looking to change the cam (I'm in VA so my choices are a little limited, but I do want to upgrade to something a little more radical then stock), but in some non-sa 1.6 RRs + guide plates, plus stronger springs, better lifters (which are the best and why??), and hardened pushrods. So now do I have to recalculate all the geometry in the assembly? at which point do I need longer/shorter push rods? how does the new setup affect stock pushrod/valve spring/valve length?

Thanks again!
-mj

 

I think you will have the best luck with the GMPP kit number 12480002. Take a look at it and see what you think. At GM parts direct it's only $498. This way you don't have to get mired down in geometry and you can stick to the fun part of building.
As for the length of the push rods use this page. http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Cu...ML/306-307.asp
Many including myself have found the stock length rods are correct. Even after having changed to a custom grind, AFR heads and magnum rr.
You may have to push the cam pin in to 0.30 for your application.