I will be installing my SLP clutch here in the next week or so and I was wondering if some of you who have done this before let me in on any tips ot tricks to get the job done easier, faster, and w/o having to take it back apart due to a misalignment or vibration.

I bought a polit BUSHING and not a bearing from a local auto parts store. I also bought a felpro RMS to do while I'm in there. Do I need to know anything about lining up marks so it doesn't vibrate? Or matching it to the balance of the flywheel? I know I need to mark the flywheel to the crank....but anything else?

Where can I get an alignment tool? Any other intall tips would be very appreciative. Thanks.

 

I just did this project a few weeks ago. We pulled the transmission and bellhousing out together. That is the wrong way to do it apparently. We had a very hard time getting the bellhousing to clear the trans. tunnel, and we broke a few wires that had to be repaired before replacing the transmission.
I bought a main seal too but when we got it apart there was no evidence of leakage so we didn't change it.
You will need to remove the shifter before you can remove the transmission.
You don't need to mark the flywheel, it only goes on one way.
You will need an alignment tool. It will help to have a helper hold the alignment tool while you tighten the bolts. Tighten them gradually and check the alignment as you go because it can move.
You will need a very long extension to get to the bolts on top.
If you have access to a lift and air tools it makes the job a lot easier.
So far my SLP clutch has worked very well for me. Slightly more effort at the pedal and slightly more abrupt engagement compared to the stock clutch.

 

Hey Bud

How much power do you think you are making? Im afraid that if i do much more that i will need a better clutch..Mine is stock. What is the slp rated for and how much was it? thanks

 

Any ideas where I can get the alignment tool? I have acces to a lift. SLP also told me to just buy a new flywheel. I say resurface. They are on drugs.

 

Jonez, I'm probably making 30 hp less than you since I'm still running the stock cam but that clutch should be ok for you.
It has GM part numbers on it, I'd guess its the LT4 clutch. I got mine from TByrne Racing, a sponsor on this board. They were having a Group Purchase and it was 10% off.
Josh, resurface if you don't want to spend the cash for the SLP flywheel (and maybe wait a while for it, mine was on backorder for 3 months). But it is noticeably lighter than the stocker and improves acceleration a little. Whoever has the lift should have an aliognment tool too but if not you might try...oh I don't know, an auto parts store maybe?

 

Fantastic. Thanks for the help. I talked to one of my intructors today and it turns out he is letting me do this as a class project and I'm getting points for it. Plus I have access to the lift, and a 30 year GM tech's knowledge.

If anyone else has done this install and has any more tips that can make this job easier for me and fro those who read this, please post them.

Thanks again guys.

 

One more thing to add, there's a bellhousing bolt on the drivers side that's a PITA to get to with a socket. I would lay under my car for hours to get that one out with an open end wrench.
Otherwise, it is really a straightforward project, just make sure everything is aligned and snug. Be careful with the tranny as it is heavy as hell, have some buddies around to help you.

Good luck!

 

That bellhousing bolt is a tough one. I discovered how to do it. I bought a 1/4" drive 14mm swivel socket-the kind where the swivel is part of the socket and it will get that bolt out. Anything else is too big. I also found that a swivel adaptor in the middle of that 2' extension for the bolts on top makes it easier too.

 

Yeah, the tranny is heavy. Draining the trans fluid first will make it lighter.

 

Get the car in the air, support the tranny, disconnect all of the harnesses on the tranny, pull the clutch release fork off of the throw-out bearing, lower the rear of the tranny about 2-3 inches, then remove the tranny to bell-housing bolts.

 

I will have a tranny jack so the weight won't really be a problem. I have most of the tools to do it, cept those swivel sockets. Should I use 3/8" or 1/2" on the bellhousing bolts?

 

Use a 3/8 drive swivel with a 3-4ft. long extension to remove the bolts at the top of the tranny.