I'm going to an ewp and am planning on using a gen1 style double roller timing set, but what do I do with the water pump drive hole that will be left in the timing cover? I was thinking of welding the hole closed or is there any other option?

Also can I use just the regular timing chain or do I have to get one for a roller cam motor?

 

Most people just weld the hole up. Pretty simple small hole, wouldn't take much.

I think you can use any timing chain once the water pump drive is gone. Dont forget the block part too.

 

There was just a thread on this. I used a bolt, nut, lock washer and two large washers big enough to cover the hole. I ground the raised portion of the cover on the inside flat and sealed it up with some RTV. Works fine, just make sure the inside washer doesn't make contact with your timing chain. Mine was really close.

 

seems safer to just weld the hole shut. A problem with the timing chain can cause extreme engine damage... not a risk i would take.

 

Probably would be, but I didn't have a welding machine available right away and no experience. Actually I think a freeze plug would be your best bet.

 

That might work better and be abit safer, an oil leak is far less damaging.

I know what you mean. I have a hard time getting my hands on the tools and equipment i need. Lucky i have a few friends going to the local University for Industrial Tech. I get access to CNC machines.. a metal foundry .. welding .. alot of stuff that makes life much easier.

Even have access to a rapid prototyper. Thought about designing a new LT1 head, but would not be cost effective and its much more effective to get a set of LE3/4 heads.

 

The Electric Water Pumps like Meziere and CSI come with a freeze plug for the water pump drive hole. You just clean the orifice in the timing cover with brake cleaner spray (no oily residue afterwards) and then put some silicone sealant on the freeze plug and then put it in the hole. Regarding the other aspects...

True Roller Timing set to buy for an LT1 - CLO-9-3145 TIMING SET TRUE SERIES for $79.88

If you're installing this in a '96 - '97, leave off the Reluctor for the crank position sensor.

You WILL have to clearance the inside of the timing cover when using a double row timing set. To start, don't install the new crank seal and opti seal before starting the grinding. The best way to know where to grind is to put the timing set on the engine completely torqued down, then take some dark cam lube and coat the outside of the chain. Now, apply the timing cover WITHOUT THE GASKET and press it down tightly. Pull the cover back off and look for evidence of the cam lube. If you see the dark goo on any surface, start grinding that part of the aluminum timing cover. Don't delude yourself into thinking you will only have to grind away "a little". It's substantial. Clean the timing cover completely before starting over with the cam lube, test fit ritual. Keep it up till the cam lube doesn't show up. Install the seals 'dry', meaning don't put silicone sealant on the periphery of the seals. Just put them in place and drive them on with a flat, clean surface such as the flat side of a 2x4 segment. I've installed 3 of them. Two on my two Z28's and one on a friends Z28.

 

Thanks for the help. The motor is coming out of the car and the bottom end is getting rebuilt and I'm doing heads, cam, and full bolt ons all at the same time. I know about the freeze plug with the ewp kit, but I was wondering about the mods to the actual timing cover, but DirtyDaveW summed everything up for me.

Thanks alot guys

 

the block part doesnt need to be closed..oil goes in and out of the block in that area AND the timing area

 

Why not use a freeze plug? Honestly I don't know if there's a size available for that hole, but if there is I'd think that'd be the easiest way.. Either that or take it to a machine shop and have them deal with it. Can't be all that expensive. Mine on my new motor is sealed, but I have yet to find out how since my build shop did it.

As long as it's for a roller cam.

 

THe freeze plug that comes with the water pump I thought was for the stock water pump hole. You need an additional freeze plug for the timing cover. I left the one in the block open but have not run the engine yet. To seal the timing cover I took the cover in to discount auto and sized one to the hole slightly smaller and used a good bit of jbweld to seal it up.

 

That's true about the waterpump, only one freezeplug for the housing. You definitely don't need to block the hole in the block since it just provides an extra passage for oil to get to the timing chain. There's not much if any pressure against that part of the timing cover, so you don't have to worry about oil pushing thorough, just seal it the cheapest way possible.

 

I know the other freeze plug is for the w/p. I'm saying get a seperate freeze plug for the cover.

 

That's what I said.