--looks-- like the block is ok, can i put in a new crank/rods/pistons by taking the oil pan off? or does the top end have to come off? thanks for any help, i'm hurting right now..
whats involved in taking the oil pan off?
here are some pics

http://www.stlhosting.com/upload/underside1.JPG

http://www.stlhosting.com/upload/pan1.JPG

http://www.stlhosting.com/upload/headers1.JPG

http://www.stlhosting.com/upload/crank1.JPG

 

eek
You can do it from the bottom, but its going to a REALLY REALLY big pain in the ***, probably better just to pull the whole engine and rebuild it right the first time I have a 355 shortblock for sale if you are interested.
Let me know.
Marcin

 

The entire motor has to come apart and out of the car. The motor has to be hot tanked because metal is through out your block. Its a costly project.

 

****, not what i wanted to hear...
i already rebuilt it right the 1st time, too much power for a stock bottom end??

 

no not too much power....did you reuse the stock rod bolts or something?

 

Not even approaching too much for a stock bottom, there are guys running more aggressive heads and cam than you and a nitrous or boost on top of that and not having a problem, heck I even know of a few runnng nitrous AND boost on top of that. Weakest link in the stock setup has to be the bearings, the rest is very stout. To be honest you probably would have been better off if you had left it alone in the first place unless it was blown the first time you rebuilt it. Pull it and start over otherwise you are just going to have more problems it probably did more internal damage than what you think.

 

You need to have that thing tanked & magnafluxed and go from there.

 

http://www.stlhosting.com/upload/crank1.JPG

Look at the crank if it's that black you just ran out of oil and spun a bearing and that broke the rod and caused all this trouble. That's what the reason for breaking a rod is about 95% of the time, the rest of it is rod bolts breaking and actually over loading or over working the rod.

The crank probably needs to be checked but it's probably going to need a regrind since you spun that bearing. Probably better off getting another stock crank and polishing the journals or a Scat 9000 replacement.

Make sure you fix that oil problem. Either you ran out of oil, or something is in the passages or your stock clearances were wrong.

Bret

 

thanks for the help guys
a quick question, instead of going through all of that, i could just get a new stroker short block right?
i have the complete upper end done, heads/cam/ the whole valvetrain,
if i got a 383 stroker shortblock, that would work right?
what else would i need?,, what should i look for, or stay away from?
anyone know a good place to get one?

 

If you jus want to buy a short block. Get the vette replacment from scoggin dickey. It will be built right, 4 bolt main, 1,700 ain't that bad. That's plenty for your H/C set up.

 

Sure you can throw a shortblock in there. You'll have to watch for all the other normal stuff when building an engine that's all...clearances and that junk.

 

Sorry about your car man, But that is awesome!

 

Good advice. A 383 really should have the heads, cam and intake to match the cubes a 350-355 would be your best bet.

Bret

 

Pull it and do it right. I've never seen anybody put pistons in from the bottom...did I just learn something new? Seems like it would be difficult without a flat surface for the ring compressor. Learn something new everyday.

 

Even if you do it from the bottom you still need to pull the heads. But you could do it with the motor in the car, but it's a huge PITA. You're better off pulling it. Not for the stroker question you could in theory do a stroker, but you're cam will seem a lot milder and probably not make as much HP. Either way you go you're going to have to have your cam cleaned at least. I would have the machine shop take a close look at it because of all the metal floating aroung in your 'old' motor. You're probably better off getting the LT4 Short block from SDPC, and then getting a new cam while you've got them on the line. Then throw you're heads and intake on thenew block and go to town. then take what's left of you're current motor and start a crazy project if you want...396,383, or whatever you choose. That's the way I would do it if you're looking to get the car on the road quickly. Otherwise get a 383, cam, and a tune, then you'll be ready to go.

Chris

Either way get a cam, I'll bet it'll look ok, but I wouldn't run it.