I was speced out a cam that is 228/236 .565/.565 110 lsa. what are your thoughts on this cam? it will be used on a 355 stock crank, i beam 6.00 rods and mahle -5cc pistons and heads similar to LE2. this car will be a daily driver. what do you think?

 

I think a 112LSA would be better.

Rich

 

why a 112 lsa? Anyone else have any thoughts

 

anyone else please help me out this is my first cam

 

Is that lift with 1.5 RR? Are you planning on going with 1.5 or 1.6? The lift might be a bit too much with 1.6RR.

What info did the designer use to spec out the cam?

 

My toughts are will that cam match your componets on your car? i would et a cam for your car

 

It will be hard to tune for drivability and will be marginal on vacuum with the 110 and will have lower low end torque than if the LSA were 112. You CR is too low for that much overlap. It would work fine on a 383 with higher compression.

Rich

 

okay no more custom cam whats a good off the shelf cam to get me at 400whp with good drivability

 

looks like a pretty common set of specs to me

i like the looks of it

this is copied from lloyd's website, and this has more lift - where yours will be with 1.6 rockers

230/234 .592/.592 111 LSA - 2200-6400 RPM
Choppy idle. Good mid range and top end power. Minimum 2800 stall and 3.42 gears for
F and Y body. Minimum 3200 stall and 4.11 gears for B body. Comparable to Comp 306

to say you will have a problem tuning or being able to drive that is ridiculous, and you should get more opinions, FWIW my le2 only has 107 and was daily driven and tuned with no issues at all, along with everyone else with that cam and the larger le3.

you want to hit 400, that is a good cam to get you there

 

i have 1.6 rr already i was looking at the xe 230/236 .544/.555 112lsa any opinions

 

If you are considering this cam ..... I have a used one with approximately 8,000 miles on it for sale. PM me if you're interested.

 

That .110 LSA will idle like ****. Get at least 112. For a DD, get a 114.

I bought Seawolf's old custom cam and it's pretty bad ***. Sounds awesome, and with the 114 LSA it idles smooth and makes great power all the way to 6800.

 

I am not going to claim to be a cam guru. But I dont have any idle issues or vacuum issues with my 224/230 107LSA cam.

Idle is agressive and consistent with no funky fluctuations, popping etc. My Datamaster shows the MAP reading 16-17 (stock was 13) with BAR being around 30 so I have plenty of vacuum for my brakes. Runs 900RPM on the money.

Here are some sound clips:
Cutout closed:


Cutouts open:


I have 128/128 cell 16 idle BLMs too and the rest of the BLMs are very much in check as well and thats with an aftermarket modded 58mm TB.

The only complaint I do have is some minor cam surge at low load, low RPM in 2nd - 3rd gears but a slight tweak to driving style and the tune when I get the time can correct it. This only happens when cruising at 25MPH and once you speed up, problem is gone. But as we all know, most aftermarket cams will have a little bit of cam surge. Maybe a higher LSA will have less, Hell if I know.

I have no issues with my 107LSA and the above are simply my personal observations. CHTP IIRC, did a engine dyno test with three cams all having same duration and lift. The three LSA's if IIRC were 107, 110, and 113.

This copied from another board referencing that article:
The averages were determined by using all the numbers from 2,500 rpm to 7,100 rpm for ALL the cams. Yes, that is quite a range. To see the details of the full range of data, you'd need to get the magazine, but here are some more details about how the cams held on at the highest rpm recorded:


For the dual plane test:

the 107* cam dropped from 540 ft lbs at 4,800 to 397 ft lbs at 7,100, a 26.5% drop, but it still made 18 ft lbs more than the 110, and 11 ft lbs more than the 113

the 110* cam dropped from 533 ft lbs at 4,900 to 379 ft lbs at 7,100, a 29% drop

the 113* cam dropped from 526 ft lbs at 5,000 to 386 ft lbs at 7,100, a 26.6% drop

So the narrow LSA clearly held on best here.

------

Still for the dual plane test:

the 107* cam dropped from 568 HP at 6,300 to 537 HP at 7,100, a 5.5% drop, but it still made 24 hp more than the 110, and 15 hp more than the 113

the 110* cam dropped from 566 HP at 6,200 to 513 HP at 7,100, a 9.4% drop

the 113* cam dropped from 564 HP at 6,200 to 522 HP at 7,100, a 7.4% drop

So the narrow LSA clearly held on best here as well.
Its interesting that in both cases above, the 110* cam did the poorest job of holding on at the highest rpm.



For the single plane test:

the 107* cam dropped from 543 ft lbs at 5,200 to 437 ft lbs at 7,100, a 19.5% drop, but it still made 12 ft lbs more than the 110, and 9 ft lbs more than the 113

the 110* cam dropped from 540 ft lbs at 5,100 to 425 ft lbs at 7,100, a 21.3% drop

the 113* cam dropped from 531 ft lbs at 5,100 to 428 ft lbs at 7,100, a 19.4% drop

So the narrow LSA held on best here too, in pure numbers, though if you care about %, the 113* did a fuzz better.

------

Still for the single plane test:

the 107* cam dropped from 607 HP at 6,600 to 591 HP at 7,100, a 2.6% drop, but it still made 17 hp more than the 110, and 12 hp more than the 113

the 110* cam dropped from 609 HP at 6,600 to 574 HP at 7,100, a 5.7% drop

the 113* cam dropped from 608 HP at 6,700 to 579 HP at 7,100, a 4.8% drop

So the narrow LSA still held on best here also.
Its interesting that in these last two cases above, the 110* cam still did the poorest job of holding on at the highest rpm.

So much for the commonly repeated theory that narrow LSA cams fall off at high rpm, and that wide LSA cams make the best high rpm power. Looks like another perfectly good theory gets destroyed by a real world test.

My dyno sheet in sig.

 

Glad it's working out for you! FWIW though, there's a lot more to cam characteristics than just the LSA.

 

you can go get the biggest cam out there and never hit 400 hp if your matched componets are not correct. you can loose power in some cases. you need to get all your parts together, what you have or will have what heads you have valve size and all, Then call a good company that knows motors and let them know what you have and what is the best cam for your set-up. OVER camming a car will give you all kinds of issues that a tune will just cover up not fix. if you dont match your componets your just wasting your time. just because it worked in one engine does not mean it will work in yours every car is diffrent and every car could have a diffrent reaction. do reserch before you buy anything and take everything on the web with caution it could cost you hard earn money and hard times. ask me how i know go ahead. i make over 550rwhp NA and over 800 on spray i have been there and done almost it all, except win an LTX shoot out. Tony shepperd is the man by the way.