Well. I hit the track the other night, our local track is a 1/8 mile. I left after 1 run fairly disappointed...and with a broken car. I ran a 8.91 at 82mph, but poly lock on one rocker had broken and the rocker nut backed right off causing the rocker to fall of the pushrod. My 60 ft was real bad too, at a lousy 2.6. I am not happy with this run, but what can i expect to run when the car breaks half way through the run? I am going back up this friday, because i fixed the car today. What should I be happy with for the mods I have? I will also hopefully be running a full quarter soon after I am happy with the 1/8 mile results. What do you other guys with similar mods run? Those with the 224/230 cam...what is your shift point set at? I have my light coming on at 6200, should that be changed? I will also be throwing the Drag radials on before I go back, so I can try to hook this thing up!! Any help, advice or info you guys could give me would be great!!

Kyle

 

I went to the track last night and ran between a 8.33-8.24 in the 1/8@83 mph with a 1.77 60ft and 13.05-12.94@105 N/A in the 1/4 on a 224/230 cam shifting at 6200 rpms also. . But I run a 4400 lb 96 Impala SS. The only difference is I run ported heads, but the weight difference should make that up 800-1000 lbs. Rule of thumb is 1/10 per 100 lbs. What kind of drag radials do you run and did you tune the car for the cam? I would think with your mods you should be running with me.
HVY SS

 

I ran on street tires...but I have BFG drag radials. 255/50/16.

 

The BFG's will help alot. Have you had the car tuned for the cam or are you still running stock tuning?
HVY SS

 

It's been tuned by Madwolf. It seems to run strong. I was told I should shift at 61-6200 but it feels like its falling off by then. Thats why I am questioning my shift point. I shifted early on both shifts. I shifted at about 5800 for the 1-2, and 5400 for the 2-3 becasue of the rocker nut backing off.

 

Hum? Mine is still pulling hard at 6200 when it shifts. I wounder if maybe you are getting false knock which will retard the timing. You do have the LT4 knock sensor? I had Bryan Herter PCM FOR LESS take out out the knock sensors above 2000 rpms for false knock from the Comp Cams 1.6 promags even with the LT4 knock sensor installed. I got 2-3 degrees of knock at lower rpms.
HVY SS

 

I have this cam and use a hydra-rev. I just told Ion to change my shift point to' 6600 on the 1-2 shift and 6400 2-3, 3-4. Without good valvespring pressure, the hydraulic rollers get very heavy after 6k. I am still using a stock tb and this thing pulls like crazy up to the now 6500 rev limit. Don't get discuraged, work with it and you will get it. The 224/230 cam is a great cam for these cars with a very broad power range. It's plenty big enough and very versatile. I'm using a pos S-10 converter that only stalls 2600 and have nearly hit 11's with my daily driver combo.

 

Yeah, I have the LT4 KM already, and the knock sensor was also desensitized in the tune as well. My y-pipe occaionally rubs the heat shield..so I was thinking that might be a problem, as well as the SA 1.6 Pro-Mags that I have are noisy too. Its not so much that its falling off in power, but slower revving when I get high up there! It feels like it just doesn't wanna rev that high basically...so I get alittle worried and shift early.

 

I am gonna see what I can find out with this thing today, hopefully something minor. Keep goin with suggestions and stuff and I will post back after I mess with my car for a while.

Kyle

 

I went ahead and pulled the heat shield off because it was rubbing a great deal more than I thought. I def think that was part of the problem now. I am gonna try to weld in the SFC's on wednesday night, and throw the DR's on before I race next time. I will just relax and try to launch the car right and hopefully some 8.20's or less, and sub 2.0 60 ft'swill find there way on the slip!! You guys have any other ideas why my times are bad?