Think it's time for a new battery?
10-21-2007, 11:37 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Portsmouth, Ohio
Posts: 447
Think it's time for a new battery?
My Formula has been exhibiting short/long starts for quite some time now. It's starting to get worse. In the morning. It fires right up, cranks for less then 2 seconds. After it's sat for a few hours, it will crank for about 10 seconds then start.
The battery is a Die Hard I bought at Sears in 2003. While runnning the in car gauge shows great voltage(13+). It never goes below 13. So I'm ruling out the alt. With the ignition in the accessory position it goes down into the low slashed area of the meter. That can be a bit innacurate. Any ideas?? My multi-meter died or I'de check it with no load.
I also have a 1200 watt system in the car. That's another reason why I'm leaning towards battery.
The battery is a Die Hard I bought at Sears in 2003. While runnning the in car gauge shows great voltage(13+). It never goes below 13. So I'm ruling out the alt. With the ignition in the accessory position it goes down into the low slashed area of the meter. That can be a bit innacurate. Any ideas?? My multi-meter died or I'de check it with no load.
I also have a 1200 watt system in the car. That's another reason why I'm leaning towards battery.
Last edited by 1FstFormulaV8; 10-21-2007 at 11:40 PM.
10-22-2007, 05:35 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 0
What makes you believe it's the battery when it cranks fine after sitting all night versus taking longer to crank when it's only sat a few hours?????????
If you think about it, it's highly un-likely that the battery is the problem. After running a few hours, according to you, it should be at its highest state of charge. Since there is a low slow drain on the battery all the time, it's going to be at a lower state of charge first thing in the morning.
More than likely if and I repeat IF the time it takes is longer to crank cause the starter is turning slower. It's probably due to a starter problem. Many starter problems show up after it gets warm. Motors will over time begin to short (winding to winding) internally. Overheating will accelerate the problem. As the windings begin to short together, it begins to draw more current. At some point the current draw is more than the system of wires and battery can muster.
If you really want to understand where the problem is. You should measure current draw by the starter at the 2 times you mentioned above.
You may or may NOT see the problem by testing another way. Use the voltmeter across the battery to see what the battery voltage is when cranking at the 2 different times you mentioned. You may see the battery voltage drop more when cranking warm than at first morning start up.
Don't use your voltmeter to measure current directly as they can't go over 10AMPs and you will need to be over 60 amps to measure the draw of the starter. You can use the voltmeter with a current clamp or a dedicated amp probe.
If you think about it, it's highly un-likely that the battery is the problem. After running a few hours, according to you, it should be at its highest state of charge. Since there is a low slow drain on the battery all the time, it's going to be at a lower state of charge first thing in the morning.
More than likely if and I repeat IF the time it takes is longer to crank cause the starter is turning slower. It's probably due to a starter problem. Many starter problems show up after it gets warm. Motors will over time begin to short (winding to winding) internally. Overheating will accelerate the problem. As the windings begin to short together, it begins to draw more current. At some point the current draw is more than the system of wires and battery can muster.
If you really want to understand where the problem is. You should measure current draw by the starter at the 2 times you mentioned above.
You may or may NOT see the problem by testing another way. Use the voltmeter across the battery to see what the battery voltage is when cranking at the 2 different times you mentioned. You may see the battery voltage drop more when cranking warm than at first morning start up.
Don't use your voltmeter to measure current directly as they can't go over 10AMPs and you will need to be over 60 amps to measure the draw of the starter. You can use the voltmeter with a current clamp or a dedicated amp probe.
11-23-2007, 07:00 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Portsmouth, Ohio
Posts: 447
Just a little update. I went out to do some yard work a few days ago, had to jump start my tractor. So I used the Formula. It wasn't able to crank over the mower.
Tonite I went out to start it...and I got..."click". Tried to crank it again.."click" One more time. It started cranking, slowly..then it fired.
Tonite I went out to start it...and I got..."click". Tried to crank it again.."click" One more time. It started cranking, slowly..then it fired.
11-23-2007, 07:33 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 626
just make sure you throw it on a charger before hand. Places like a fully charged battery when they do the current draw tests. Or, get a decent battery charger, there are quite a few now that can do the test themselves to see if there is a problem within the battery (internal shorts blow.. I had 2 batteries with that issue.)
11-23-2007, 10:32 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 747
Just a little update. I went out to do some yard work a few days ago, had to jump start my tractor. So I used the Formula. It wasn't able to crank over the mower.
Tonite I went out to start it...and I got..."click". Tried to crank it again.."click" One more time. It started cranking, slowly..then it fired.
Tonite I went out to start it...and I got..."click". Tried to crank it again.."click" One more time. It started cranking, slowly..then it fired.
11-23-2007, 11:56 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: BC
Posts: 2,322
My Formula has been exhibiting short/long starts for quite some time now. It's starting to get worse. In the morning. It fires right up, cranks for less then 2 seconds. After it's sat for a few hours, it will crank for about 10 seconds then start.
The battery is a Die Hard I bought at Sears in 2003. While runnning the in car gauge shows great voltage(13+). It never goes below 13. So I'm ruling out the alt. With the ignition in the accessory position it goes down into the low slashed area of the meter. That can be a bit innacurate. Any ideas?? My multi-meter died or I'de check it with no load.
I also have a 1200 watt system in the car. That's another reason why I'm leaning towards battery.
The battery is a Die Hard I bought at Sears in 2003. While runnning the in car gauge shows great voltage(13+). It never goes below 13. So I'm ruling out the alt. With the ignition in the accessory position it goes down into the low slashed area of the meter. That can be a bit innacurate. Any ideas?? My multi-meter died or I'de check it with no load.
I also have a 1200 watt system in the car. That's another reason why I'm leaning towards battery.
Symptoms: Morning - Starts right up, At work sitting a few hours, usually around lunch - 5-10 sec cranks.
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