t56 clicking noise
#6
Re: t56 clicking noise
I had a spec clutch that we had to rig up a stop as pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor caused some noise. That extra 3/4" less travel made the difference. Might try it a little short of the floorboard as well as slowly depressing it and determine were in the travel the noise starts.
#8
Re: t56 clicking noise
Based on your feedback, sounds like something is wrong with the throwout bearing or pressure plate. It could be other issues, but best to have a look at it before it gets worse.
#9
yea i already bought a new clutch kit now iys just putting it in yay lol might wanna be prepared for lots of questions any advice is very helpful first time reaplacing a clutch
Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android
Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android
#10
Re: t56 clicking noise
Back when I first pulled mine, this helped....
Clutch Removal On 1994 Z28
A few notes from myself....
There is plenty more I can add, but that will be a good start. If you have pulled transmissions before, then there is not much difference between those and this.
Clutch Removal On 1994 Z28
A few notes from myself....
- Gently brace the bottom of the engine with a small jack and wood block(between the pan and jack). When the wood block just touches the oil pan stop(don't jack of this hard...you may split the oil pan if not careful). This will help to keep the engine from moving on you(up and down). You can lower the trans a little before you brace the engine. That will help you get clearance to pull it out.
- You don't have to drain the trans if you have an old drive shaft yoke to put on the output shaft. I used the one from my old steel drive shaft(I upgraded to a LS1 shaft).
- When removing/installing the trans from the engine, if it does not release/install freely and easily....STOP! Something is in a bind. You may need to move the trans up and down. It's also easy to miss a bolt on top of the trans(if I recall, there are eight of them attaching the trans to the bellhousing). Gauge the gap between the bellhousing and trans. If it's a gap at the top and not at the bottom(the trans is in a bind pitched down), raise the trans up to even out the gap. An even gap means the trans is inline with the engine and should pull out easy.
- When lining up the clutch disk, I always use an actual input shaft...I've had zero luck with the plastic ones. If the clutch disk is not aligned correctly, you will be able to get the trans past the disk teeth and it will stop with around a 1" gap between the trans and bellhousing.
- If you can help it, don't used the bolts to pull the trans to the bellhousing. That can get you into trouble fast if you don't
have it aligned correctly. - Use a pilot bushing puller(rent it at Autozone)...you may have to drill the old bushing hole bigger to the get the puller in there(no big deal...pulling it out for replacement), but it's much easier than TP/grease methods in my opinion. I prefer a bushing to a bearing.
- Do not excessively lube the input shaft and put zero lube on the tip that engages the pilot bushing. The grease will collect clutch dust and eat up a bushing. A very light coat on the splines is all that is needed.
- I also recommend a good transmission jack and flat floor to work on if possible.
- Use a torque wrench on all bolts when tightening. Especially the pressure plate. If I recall, those bolts are torqued to 22lb-ft(per my factory manual...so you don't have to angle torque them).
There is plenty more I can add, but that will be a good start. If you have pulled transmissions before, then there is not much difference between those and this.
Last edited by ACE1252; 02-07-2013 at 02:29 PM.
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