LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Swapping the opti this weekend

Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
TheBlur's Avatar
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Swapping the opti this weekend

Any advice ? I'm pretty nervous as this is my only car and the shop I'm doing it at is 3 hours from work so I have to get it done. I ordered a special snap on tool recommended from this write up
http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_95_up_OptiReplace.htm

Been reading up on it pretty hard and looking on here for good info. Lots of the pages people recommended for more info are down but I think I have the general idea. I just wanna know what else I might need. I ordered the OEM AC Delco opti from jegs and im not sure if they provide gaskets, etc but if somebody else does let me know as I want to have all the tools/parts/gaskets/sealant needed before I start. Thanks
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:43 PM
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Here you go bro one of the best write ups ive found that includes most of what you are asking about. I learn by pictures though so this is prob. why i say i feel it is the best.

Sexy Write Up lol
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #3  
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Very nice, thank you. I think I can get it done in a day hopefully.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 03:28 PM
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Install the opti and connect all the wires. Run the motor WITHOUT the water pump for about 10 seconds to ensure the opti works correctly. You will not harm your motor. Nothing worse than having to take everything apart again if there is an issue with the new opti.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #5  
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Better not be nothing wrong LoL I gotta drive home afterwards. But that's good advice I will def do that.
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 05:24 AM
  #6  
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I don't know is either of the "how to" articles mention it, but Loc-Tite the rotor screws before you install the new unit.
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:31 AM
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Dont forget the water pump drive gear connector when reinstalling the water pump. It's been forgotten before and you'll never figure out why your overheating

I'd replace the water pump drive seal (custom tool required, (i used a highlighter)) and the opti seal while your in there. If they're not leaking now they will be soon, they're a cheap buy..

Also lube the crank pully before you put it back on so you don't have to use the claw puller in the future. removing the WP and crank pully are the worst parts about this process. but it can all easily be done in a few hours.

Last edited by Sick97SS; Sep 24, 2010 at 08:25 AM.
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Sick97SS
Dont forget the water pump drive gear connector when reinstalling the water pump. It's been forgotten before and you'll never figure out why your overheating

I'd replace the water pump drive seal (custom tool required, (i used a highlighter)) and the opti seal while your in there. If they're not leaking now they will be soon, they are cheap buy..

Also lube the crank pully before you put it back on so you don't have to use the claw puller in the future. removing the WP and crank pully are the worst parts about this process. but it can all easily be done in a few hours.
Amen to that. Just replaced my opti a couple weekends ago and I put the wp coupling on my toolbox, just like I did last summer so I wouldn't forget it..didn't realize the damn thing is the same color as my toolbox when I set it down. After I got the waterpump back on with nice fresh permatex and gaskets, all tightened down, I remembered. Least I didn't get the whole thing put back together first. It's easy to forget to put that back on and without it your wp won't work at all...
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Should be able to tackle it in a few hours- first time prol figure 4-5 hrs with the help of a buddy. Don't be overwhelmed- its just nuts and bolts.

I have mentioned it before- but the easiest way I have found to drain the coolant is to use a CLEAN wet/dry shop-vac that you can dedicate to 'shop' use. Pull off the neck on the water pump and place the the hose right on top of the water pump. I put a couple layers of electricians tape around the bottom of the hose to help it create a seal. Turn on your vac for about 15-20 seconds. You should be able to drain more than enough coolant out so that when you pull the water pump no leak.

Using this technique I spill maybe a couple drops of coolant. To me its MUCH easier than trying to mess with drains on the block or pulling the water pump bolts out and having coolant shoot out everywhere and get all over everything.
Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #10  
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Angry

Wish I would have seen this thread before. Just finished my first Opti swap, and started on a clutch swap, and still havent started the car. It's completely back together up front.
I'll remember to start it w/o the water pump next time...
although whats making feel better is the fact that the opti slid right on after lining up the cam dowel and the slot on the opti, and went all the way up to the block the first time.
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