Suspension - When do you need new springs?
When it comes to suspension I know very little. My car feels very loose and bouncy when driving. When I go slowly over speed bumps it makes a creaking sound. Could this mean I need new springs or shocks?
How do you know when you need new springs or shocks?
What are some of the better ways to tighten up my suspension?
How do you know when you need new springs or shocks?
What are some of the better ways to tighten up my suspension?
I believe that creaking sound is worn control arm bushings, my car does that, but I have BMR lca's ready to install. As for when to replace springs and shocks, I'm not really sure. Maybe someone else can help?
I would check the shocks first, simply because on cars that aren't that old, the springs sould be fine unless they have been totally neglected (ie shocks never replaced). I have heard people say that as long as you maintain the shocks, the springs should basically last the life of the vehicle. O don't know how true this is, but like I said check the shocks first, you may be rubbing the bump stops when you hit bumps and that could be causing the squeaking.
ways to tighten up the suspension are going to be shocks, lower control arms, and a panhard bar.
the after market pieces will flex less and help to keep the axle in place during hard acceleration and cornering. any aftermarket units should come with stiffer bushings (either polygraphit or harder rubber). old worn our rubber bushings, which compress or deflect under load throw the suspension geometry off, resulting in poor performance.
lca will help keep the rear from twisting and rotating under load, resulting in both improved straight line and cornering traction. BMR makes very high quality pieces, at reasonable prices and they give you choices. you can chose color to match your car and you can choose spherical rod ends (adj lca only), poly bushings or a combo of poly/rubber bushings. i got the poly/rubber for $90 or so, they are said to be a bit tamer for street driving to control increased noise and vibration.
i think the panhard bar is about $100 and will help keep the rear end centered during cornering.
a good set of shocks to look into are the Bilsteins, they are about $300 for all 4 and are designed for stock ride height and are stifer than the stock units.
other types are KYB, tokiko or if you have $$ Koni's
the after market pieces will flex less and help to keep the axle in place during hard acceleration and cornering. any aftermarket units should come with stiffer bushings (either polygraphit or harder rubber). old worn our rubber bushings, which compress or deflect under load throw the suspension geometry off, resulting in poor performance.
lca will help keep the rear from twisting and rotating under load, resulting in both improved straight line and cornering traction. BMR makes very high quality pieces, at reasonable prices and they give you choices. you can chose color to match your car and you can choose spherical rod ends (adj lca only), poly bushings or a combo of poly/rubber bushings. i got the poly/rubber for $90 or so, they are said to be a bit tamer for street driving to control increased noise and vibration.
i think the panhard bar is about $100 and will help keep the rear end centered during cornering.
a good set of shocks to look into are the Bilsteins, they are about $300 for all 4 and are designed for stock ride height and are stifer than the stock units.
other types are KYB, tokiko or if you have $$ Koni's
Do you recommend LCA's from BMR as well? After looking at the website, their products do look nice.
Which is better though, the tubular or boxed control arms? Also, how easy is the install?
The bottom line is, after riding in my friend's new Nissan 350Z, I was jealous at how tight his car felt compared to mine. His was smooth!!!!
Which is better though, the tubular or boxed control arms? Also, how easy is the install?
The bottom line is, after riding in my friend's new Nissan 350Z, I was jealous at how tight his car felt compared to mine. His was smooth!!!!
its like riding in a hyundai and then riding in a Z06 vette. The new 350Z's are Nissans baby. They went all out on that ride IMO with a nice HP pushing engine, suspension is top of the line, and the car looks smooth as a babies butt! I'd trade my Z28 in right now if I could get a new 350Z
Suspension upgrades.
I definitely love my Z28. I got a new paint job and wheels when I hit 100,000 miles so I want to keep it for a long time. I think it's just time for some new shocks and better suspension.
Will I notice a big difference with stiffer shocks and LCA's? I don't know when the last time she had new shocks put on.
Will I notice a big difference with stiffer shocks and LCA's? I don't know when the last time she had new shocks put on.
Half the size? Not quite, its a 3300 pound car, the REAL Z is the 240
Now that is close to "half the size," if you really want tiny though a 510 or an old Mini are the way to go. My 240Z feels tremendously stiffer than a stock Z28, but its still not a solid frame car either, so its probably just due to it being so much lighter, and having a roof instead of a T top.
I would buy a used Vette a million years before I'd buy a 350Z, give or take
If you want cheap speed, buy an old light car and throw a V8 in it. 240Z with a stock 2002 LS1/6 speed ran a 12.08@117.
Now that is close to "half the size," if you really want tiny though a 510 or an old Mini are the way to go. My 240Z feels tremendously stiffer than a stock Z28, but its still not a solid frame car either, so its probably just due to it being so much lighter, and having a roof instead of a T top.I would buy a used Vette a million years before I'd buy a 350Z, give or take
If you want cheap speed, buy an old light car and throw a V8 in it. 240Z with a stock 2002 LS1/6 speed ran a 12.08@117.
Originally posted by White Z 4 Show
that is pretty fast....got any pictures or video?
that is pretty fast....got any pictures or video?
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You can buy a honda accord that feels as "tight" as the 350Z
Did they go up from 75 shipped???
