Surge
12-26-2009, 06:07 PM
#1
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Location: Michigan
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Surge
Ok so when i start my car it starts fine cold or warm. When i drive it when the car is cold it drives great but as it warms up it will hesitate and backfire. As long as the car has warmed up it will do this during WOT and just cruising. The RPM's also jump around at idle and while I am driving. I do have a rip in the air intake elbow like a really bad one and I have noticed that the more it has ripped the worse it has gotten. I tried taping it, but chunks are missing where the clamp goes onto the throttle body. I am wondering if that is my only problem or could I have more than one problem.
12-26-2009, 06:29 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Back in the US of F'in A
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Ok so when i start my car it starts fine cold or warm. When i drive it when the car is cold it drives great but as it warms up it will hesitate and backfire. As long as the car has warmed up it will do this during WOT and just cruising. The RPM's also jump around at idle and while I am driving. I do have a rip in the air intake elbow like a really bad one and I have noticed that the more it has ripped the worse it has gotten. I tried taping it, but chunks are missing where the clamp goes onto the throttle body. I am wondering if that is my only problem or could I have more than one problem.
12-26-2009, 09:21 PM
#3
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Location: Michigan
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ok does anyone know where i can find a cheap air intake elbow the rubber one I have been to 7 local junkyards no luck. Craigslist no luck and ebay still waiting for the bidding to end but probably no luck
12-27-2009, 12:44 PM
#4
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Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Don't know what year you are looking for, but 95-97 part# is 25147187
Try one of the recommended dealers or www.gmpartsdirect.com and put in the part#...don't recommended buying from there cause of their outragous shipping...but...or try to dozen of other recommended GM parts dealers.
Try one of the recommended dealers or www.gmpartsdirect.com and put in the part#...don't recommended buying from there cause of their outragous shipping...but...or try to dozen of other recommended GM parts dealers.
12-27-2009, 12:48 PM
#5
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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You'll get much better tresults if you provide all the info people need to help you. Why not add a "signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, tranny and any major mods. That way no one will have to guess what year you are asking about.
Even if you don't want to add a "signature", at least respond when people ask for more info.
Even if you don't want to add a "signature", at least respond when people ask for more info.
12-27-2009, 01:08 PM
#6
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Wow didn't realize i don't have a signature well its a 1994 z28 6 speed with borla exhaust longtube headers K&N cold air intake it has 73k miles on it cap and rotor have been replaced about 30k miles ago or less. Sorry about the low info thought I had my signature on
12-27-2009, 01:19 PM
#7
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Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Look up the part#s here http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm
12-27-2009, 02:02 PM
#8
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Ok i found a wire in which the clip on it is broke so it slide on and off easily. With it being unplugged the car runs the same but i havnt driven it when its off. I have no idea what this wire is. Its on the right side of the engine just above the spark plugs. Does anyone know what I am talking about?
12-27-2009, 05:23 PM
#10
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as seen from the front of the car. I think its the ECT but i could be mistaken its on the side of the engine by the spark plugs just above them. Also tonight i turned the lights of in my garage turn my car on saw blue flashing light coming from the the spark plugs and the coil a lot from the coil. What does this mean?
12-27-2009, 08:10 PM
#12
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Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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Need to fix the arcing and the unmetered air entering the elbow then go from there.
12-27-2009, 08:45 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Ok i found a wire in which the clip on it is broke so it slide on and off easily. With it being unplugged the car runs the same but i havnt driven it when its off. I have no idea what this wire is. Its on the right side of the engine just above the spark plugs. Does anyone know what I am talking about?
as seen from the front of the car. I think its the ECT but i could be mistaken its on the side of the engine by the spark plugs just above them. Also tonight i turned the lights of in my garage turn my car on saw blue flashing light coming from the the spark plugs and the coil a lot from the coil. What does this mean?
12-28-2009, 09:07 AM
#15
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Check the plug gaps. If they are too big, the sparks ends up arcing from the wires to the nearest metal object, or cross-firing between wires. Stock spec on plug gap is 0.050".
Use dielectric grease on all the connections... not on the conducting surfaces - the grease is an insulator. But use it to seal the rubber boots to the plugs and to the Opti wire towers, so that water can't get in there. While you have the wires out of the Opti towers, look for corrosion either on the wires or the Opti terminals.
Check the two harness connectors for the Opti. The one that plugs into the Opti, and the other end of the short harness on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Make sure there is no "blue" corrosion on the connectors, or bent/damaged pins. Use dielectric grease on the harness connector. That's where a lot of water seems to enter on the Opti case.
Keep working on it, including replacement of wires if required, until you don't see any arcing in the dark. Remember, if you see sparks when the engine is just idling, its going to get even worse when the engine is under heavy load, and it takes even higher voltage to fire the plugs.
Use dielectric grease on all the connections... not on the conducting surfaces - the grease is an insulator. But use it to seal the rubber boots to the plugs and to the Opti wire towers, so that water can't get in there. While you have the wires out of the Opti towers, look for corrosion either on the wires or the Opti terminals.
Check the two harness connectors for the Opti. The one that plugs into the Opti, and the other end of the short harness on the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Make sure there is no "blue" corrosion on the connectors, or bent/damaged pins. Use dielectric grease on the harness connector. That's where a lot of water seems to enter on the Opti case.
Keep working on it, including replacement of wires if required, until you don't see any arcing in the dark. Remember, if you see sparks when the engine is just idling, its going to get even worse when the engine is under heavy load, and it takes even higher voltage to fire the plugs.