Well, ive built up my budget for my Camaro's overhaul coming up this summer. But there are still some questions i still have, Most of what i list below is what im pretty dead set on getting, but if you have some reccomendations or changes please feel free to let me know.
My build so far is:
Swap engine: 383 LT-1 , CC 503 w/ 1.6 RR, Port Heads and intake manifold, AIR delete, Lingenfelter 58mm Throttle body, emissions retune, TPiS oil pan, HD timing chain, HD motor mounts.

MSD Distributor & spark plug wires (purchased)

Racetronics fuel pump kit, 255 lph fuel pump, connections, powered by the alternator. (Purchased)

Injectors: Not too sure on this one, ive heard get 27# to 30#, which would be the best application and brand for affordability?

UMI or BMR tubular K member, tubular torque arm, tower brace, rag joint eliminator, suspension tightening. (purchased)

Wiring harness repare or replace: cant decide which i want to do.

Moser 3.73 R&P, Moser axle shafts (10 bolt), Moser Rear diff cover (10 bolt).

3" to 3.5" aluminum driveshaft, could i use a ls1 drive shaft from a 98+ camaro on mine? and would it help the car out if it does fit?

Fix/Rebuild transmission, HD flexplate, HD transmission mounts.

Full chassis tune, Balance engine, do a small ram air cut out scoop for the filter.

All in all i have budgeted this overhaul at $6000 with most of the work is done by me and my friend, with the exception of the tune, balance and porting. My overall goal with this build, is to produce a street performance car and I "want" 350 HP 400 FT-lbs of torque. Any other additions, or recommendations i should consider for this? Thank you.

 

If your stock fuel pump is good, keep it. You don't need a bigger one with what you are doing.

Rich

 

In my opinion, that cam is way to small for a 383. I would go with something else. (everyone picks a different cam, so telling you what one you need is quite difficult). If that cam is already in the engine, not sure if I would take it out.

I personally would not beef up the 10 bolt, I would just buy a new rear. Thats me though, a new rear costs 2k+ compared to just the axles since you are on a budget, I can understand.

 

I have to agree. However, no idea what your intentions are with the car.

also, you spend all this time on your car and don't intend to tune it yourself? Makes no sense to me because that is part of what you are looking for: your own car that works the way YOU want it to. Everyone says "it takes a lot of time to learn to tune". Yeah, but so does rebuilding engines...

 

I would, but previous owners said they put in a new pump, and i doubt it however, doesnt seem to want to supply fuel at certain rpm levels. Also i already have a Racetronix fuel pump kit sitting in my room for this summers overhaul, cant let it go to waste, its more there if i want more power (such as nitrous or supercharger) in the future.

And i have heard that from quite a few people, but the cam came with the engine package i am ordering, plus i am getting the 1.6 RR to help compensate for the smaller profile.

I would agree with you, i did consider a moser ford 9" package, but my budget wouldnt fit it in though, thats why im doing my best to beef up the 10 bolt, with the power output im looking at, i think it should hold fine.

My intentions is a modest street 383 LT-1, probably pushing around the 325-375 RWHP range, and 350-400 Ft-Lb range. I would tune it myself, but i dont think i can afford any tuning programs at this time, plus i am gonna work with the dyno tune shop on exactly what i want, as he will do two tunes for my car, First being the engine break in tune, and then the final tune for performance later. And he is charging me 275 dollars for the full chassis tunes.

Any more suggestions, it still would be appreciated

 

IMO, you can get MUCH more power out of that motor using a different cam without sacrificing any drivability. Using the LT4 cam even on a 350 is still considered very docile, much less a 383, especially with ported heads.

 

Why do you feel you need a new oil pan?

58mm TB would appear to be a waste of money with that cam.

AC/Delco (Delphi) Opti is just as good as the MSD.

What's wrong with your wiring harness, that makes you think you need a new one?

What is your HP goal.... you've thrown out numbers ranging from 300 - 400rwHP - at CO altitude? If we assume 6,000-ft altitude (you lose 20% of the HP at that altitude), that means building an engine that would make 375 - 500 rwHP at sea level. You aren't going to get anywhere near 400rwHP with the LT4 HOT cam or with the rest of the parts in that build. It doesn't seem like you've thought this out very thoroughly.

 

Brutal, but true. Thats why im asking multiple months ahead. I do know that there is significant power loss at our altitude. Along with power loss through transmission. And i am probably looking around some high amount of loss, only the dyno will tell in the end. But here is my reasons behind the items you mentioned.

My current oil pan is bashed up and leaking profusely, so i figured, why not replace it in the process..

I already have a MSD distributor, but decided to throw it on the list.

I said 58mm TB because ive found some local places and websites that sell them that cost just the same as the 52mm TB.

Multiple sensors in my engine bay are failing,and there are quite a few burned wires because it gets so hot from the headers, and i figured i get a fresh start with a harness check and repare, or replacement.

So my true goal is no less than 330 HP and 390 Ft-Lbs. For now those numbers i would be perfectly happy with. The reason i was going with the LT4 Hotcam is because it is included in the engine package I am ordering. Sure i wouldnt mind a CC306 or 503. And they are still possible options in the future.
Low end 0-60 and 1/4 mile power is what im trying to push for in my engine, but what makes this build good, is that it is a good platform for even more power if i wish it in the future (such as nitrous, better cam, supercharger).

 

IMO, just do the newer cam now. It's only an extra couple hundred bucks (and if you sold the hotcam, it'd be even cheaper) and you'll thank yourself in the end. You're going to invest a lot of money into your setup for only 330HP. I guarantee you'll want more when you get there. It'll all be apart anyway so you should just play the "might as well" card.

 

Very well, im pushing a 2K stall torque converter, i know a CC503 will work fine with it, but what about the CC306? Also in addition i do not want to push the engine any higher then 6000 RPM. Any thoughts on Fuel injectors rate? i was thinking 28# now? and any sort of brand?

 

If I am not mistaken a CC306 is going to want more than 6k rpms. To get the power you want it "normally" takes at least 6k rpms.

I have a 231/239 cam with a stock converter. Car still moves Not entirely sure with cams and converters.

 

Well i have opted out of the LT4 Hotcam, now im will probably go with a CC 503 with 1.6 RR. Is the duration and lift from that cam sufficient for the 383? Again any thoughts on what type of injectors i should invest in and what brand?