In my recent closed thread I was experiencing an interesting coolant leak.

Courtesy of Shoebox, I was reminded that I made a nice error when installing my pump, and now here I am.

I realized I didn't use thread sealor on the water pump bolts, and I'm pretty sure that's where my leak is coming from, though I can't exactly see where its leaking from.

However when the car is running you can see the coolant sort of trickle down and drip near the steering rack and just below the crank.

Does anyone know if this sounds likely?

The rapidness of the leak has gotten significantly less than when I first started it.

Also if I do pull the bolts back out, what're anyone suggestions on the easiest and fastest way to do that consodering I have to be back at work tomorrow?

Thank-You everyone

 

To reseal the bolts, it would be best to get the coolant level below the bottom bolts, so that the threads can dry before using thread sealant. Rather than relying on stubborn and hard to get to block drains, some people have successfully used a shop vac to get the coolant out (after draining radiator). Some compressed air could also help in drying it out.

That said, I did not use sealant on my first water pump replacement years ago and had no leaks. No leaks later when I did use sealant. So, may be your leak or may not. It's just best to use the the sealant to help insure no leaks.

 

Okay thanks for the quick reply..

So in your opinion, if you were in my position, what would you do?

Car only leaks once it is warmed up to operating temperature.

Nothing is visibly leaking while pressure testing, and I even listened around various parts of the system for air leaks. None were significant..

And back to the bolts, I got those things tight as hell, like used a breaker bar on all 6, but I'm sure I didn't break any bolts or strip them.

And I have about 4 hours in the morning to get this leak fixed before I have to drive to work and risk destroying my opti..

Please with your experience and knowledge, what ideas might you have?

Thanks!

 

Why would you use a breaker bar on the water pump bolts? Stock torque spec is 30 ft. lbs. For comparison your lug nuts are to be torqued at 100 ft. lbs.

Drain the coolant, remove the bolts, clean them on a wire wheel, add thread sealant and reinstall, then PROPERLY torque them.

Did you install the water pump gaskets dry or with sealant? I have had luck both ways but now use a thin coating of spray gasket on both sides.

Did you ensure the gasket surface on the block was 100% smooth, clean, and dry before installing?

Did you ensure the water pump flange itself was smooth, clean, and dry?

Lots of possibilities for leaks on this job. And MOST of the time it's the guy doing the work. Beings that you used a breaker bar to tighten down the water pump bolts AND you didn't use thread sealant on the stock bolts (and if you didn't use sealant you probably didn't clean the threads either) I'd bet that you made another error somewhere along the line. Time to start digging.

 

I didn't use a torque wrench because I had limited time to get this job done before I had to go to work and didn't have time to pull the fan assembly out of the way to allow room for a torque wrench, and yes I'm quite familiar with torque specs.

(And the bolts are not tightened much more than 30 ft ibs because after using a breaker bar and evenly tightening all 6, I used a torque wrench just to see how much torque I put on one of the easily accessible bolts and it was 31 ft ibs. That's close enough for me)

And yes, I used permatex non hardening sealant on both sides of the gaskets and made sure they were both sitting perfectly before pushing the pump flush against the block.

And I've done some research after what Shoebox told me, and if the bolts were leaking, I would see at least a slight build up around the water pump gaskets, which there is none.

The leak isn't even centered around the pump gaskets, somewhere its dripping down and dripping off the bottom of the steering rack and the crank.

So once again, is it at all possible for one of the front, or passenger side freeze plugs to leak?

 

Okay everyone, so God is apparently trying to teach me a lesson.

Today I went out and crawled underneath my car while it was idling for just under 30 minutes. Was able to figure out where some of the coolant was dripping down from, one of the bottom hose clamps wasn't sitting perfectly straight with the hose and was allowing a drop or two of fluid out randomly.

So I fix that and decide to rev my car up and see if it will leak more, so I do so and....

My car starts dripping oil like crazy!

I can see it start to build up on the crank, and then a lot of it is also dripping from the steering rack.

I'm seriously mind boggled at what could've caused this to suddenly start leaking, and now every time I start it it just leaks and leaks and leaks.

What're your guys opinions on that "No Leak" oil additive stuff?
My dads friend is an ASE certified mechanic and he said he uses it in older cars all the time as a temporary fix.

 

I don't recommend oil additives. Do your best to locate the leak and fix it. The biggest fast leaker on the front is the water pump drive seal.

 

Man this really sounds like it's going to be a lot of fun...

Shoebox, what is your best recommendation on locating oil leaks?

Because the issue I'm having, is when I'm underneath it and looking around, EVERYTHING has the presence of oil on it.

My car has always had a very slow oil leak, like maybe a drop or two a few minutes after shutting the car off, but never while it was running like it's doing now.

And while I'm underneath it, oil is dripping from two different locations, one spot is where it like pools at the bottom of the crank and just gets a pretty quick drip going.

The other place is right on the steering rack, it seems that like 5 or 6 drops come off the steering rack from random spots each time. Could this all be from the same location?

I mean when I took the old pump off, I will admit I was frustrated and didn't exactly take my time easing it out or anything. And I also used a rubber mallet to get it around the coil so is it possible I may have damaged or offset the water pump drive seal?

Thank-You so much for your advice, it's been very helpful.

 

Simple Green, rags and/or brake cleaner to get things as clean as you can, then observe for leaks.

 

Clean it up and dry it off best you can. I would be careful with break cleaner if you use it around paint,plastic, possibly wires and hoses too. If its as messy as I assume it may be a gallon of acetone and rags may be cheaper that break cleaner. Get things as clean and dry as you can and get under there with rags and lights and try to find the high points. Chances are it is your seal if its a new leak after work done in that area. Somewere I have a link how to change that seal(very good instructions and pictures its from an impala site).


Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

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Posted from Camaroz28.com App for Android

 

What is the easiest way to get the old seal out? I've been tapping on mine with a scewdriver for 10 minutes and can't get it out.

Also do I have to remove the entire crank pulley and optispark?

Or can I just unbolt the opti and move it out of the way?

Also the old seal looks fine, like you can't see any oil drip areas on it..

 

The seal pries out with a screwdriver like the picture in the instruction shows. Pulley and opti have to come out. I am wondering why you are replacing it if you see no leaks from it? Weren't you supposed to clean things up and track down the leak?

 

I did some cleaning/tracking and came to the conclusion that it was coming from that area. But after I pulled the old seal out, it was obvious. Whoever put it in before I got the car, didn't do it right. The yellow ring had a solid cut right though it.

So I'm assuming it was a slow leak and when I "disturbed" that area while changing the pump it decided to give out.

I was also able to make enough room to get the seal in and out without removing the crank pulley.

All I did was unbolt the opti and rotate it slightly.

However I'm really wishing Chevy had the lower larger seal under the water pump drive, because I really don't want to take all this out again anytime soon.

But thanks for all the help Shoebox, hopefully when I get everything back together tonight ill be leak free.

 

You don't have to get the seal from GM. Felpro seals that you can get most anywhere are probably what people use most.