If the tune were off bad enough to cause crankcase contamination you would have BLACK plugs.

So how about it?

 

Plugs aren't black. Rusty brown. It seems too miss in low end and cruising speeds. Once it hits 3000 it runs great. Could timing retard cause this? O2 sensors were rusty brown also. Seems too be burning perfect honestly. Maybe my ecu is crapping out. Driving me nuts though that's for sure

 

Uggghh i datalogged the car tonight and threw 37 dtc's. They are 12 13 14 15 16 21 22 in red,23 24 25 26 27 28 32 33 34 36 41 42 43 44 45 46 51 52 53 55 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 71. 22 was red in datamaster the rest were green. I think the ecu is part of the problem. Im at a big loss here as too how i can have so many problems with all new parts?

 

Lol i am an idiot. It threw code 22. Would that make it run that bad? I thought that only affected startup and idle quality

 

It's easy enough to check, even in Datamaster. Look for your TPS voltage. It needs to be between .23v and .9v with somewhere around ~.6v being preferable. WOT voltage should be your closed throttle value PLUS ~4v.

 

My plug wires are arcing again. i just don't get it. 200 dollar wires arcing already what's the heaviest guage wire made for our cars? I think im gonna wrap the headers tomorrow also

 

The coil wire harness has been hacked and rewired also. Maybe its wired wrong and burning holes through the wires?

 

Liquid electrical tape is awesome!!!! Fixed the wire on cylinder 4 now all i have to do is adjust the tps. Just drill out the plastic and turn the sensor till its at the right voltage correct?

 

I'd probably buy a new one. I don't think they are supper high in price. Just curious have you ohmed out your coil? The one you have I think is the MSD blaster right? I think it's pretty similar to the stock voltage, and shouldn't be arcing if the wires are good.

 

Wires are 200 a set and the car smoothed right out after i fixed it. I haven't checked the coil but the car ran the same with the oem coil as it did with the blaster coil and a streetfire coil. The car ran ten times better once i fixed the wire. Im gonna adjust the tps in the morning and head off too the dyno as long as it runs clean. I really think it was arcing from the boot too the head. My mechanic pulled the boot apart today. He bent the thing tha locks on the plug. I seated it on there correctly and. Went around the boot with liquid e-tape. No arc and wasn't skipping. Was running rough but i think its because the tps sensor isn't adjusted correctly and it stumbles and loads up when idling

 

Lol i misunderstood. The tps is brand new. I can buy a new one for 60 bux i believe but i think it just needs too be adjusted after the new motor and tune.

 

What does the TPS voltage read at closed throttle?

You really need to figure out why it just seems to burn through set after set of wires. Are you sure the SCR is only 12.5 and not way higher, causing the plugs to require huge voltage to jump the gap? You indicated elsewhere (way too many threads about the same problem) that someone else calculated the SCR.

Since you have a DataMaster log, have you posted it so we can take a look at it? When I see how you interpreted the presence of the code table, it would appear you might not have a good grasp of what you are looking at.

 

Ill post the. Uni file later today. The tps low voltage at idle was. 69. At wot it was 3.8

 

Rust=water so id be more concerned about that first
Any compression or leakdown tests done lately

 

Assuming you meant .69 (not 69.0v), then your WOT voltage is low. The likely scenario here is that your TPS may be bad, or your blades are not opening the TB fully. Check the condition of your throttle cables, visually inspecting that upon pressing the pedal (NOT by hand) that they go to wide open.

You can also check the signal voltage on the blue wire with the key-on engine off for the aforementioned signal voltages.