Stumbling...idle to 2K RPM...*not the opti*
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 368
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
Stumbling...idle to 2K RPM...*not the opti*
Here's a pretty good description of what's going on...my problem sounds almost exactly the same as this guy's problem...
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=96458
My problem is most noticable when I'm on the highway...when I let off the gas, let it cruise a bit, then give it light throttle, it does the same thing that I quoted above...it bucks and makes a ticking/clanking noise. Giving it enough gas to unlock the converter and kick the RPMs over 2500 or 3000 RPM usually clears it out and it's semi-OK until I let off the gas and cruise again.
I have replaced the IAC, plugs, checked the plug wires (they're fine), and the opti yesterday hoping that would fix the problem. It didn't. The car has no EGR system and no cat, so they aren't the problem either.
Anyone have any ideas? The only other thing I can think that it might be would be the ignition module, but I'd rather not throw more money at this thing unless I have a pretty good idea of what's causing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I push this turd in the river.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=96458
As other cars, my car does not do this much when it's cold, but when it's warm, i can barely get it up to speed without having to downshift it to get it above 2500rpms, and when it does stumble, hesitate, and buck, it makes a ticking/clanking noise from the front of the car.
I have replaced the IAC, plugs, checked the plug wires (they're fine), and the opti yesterday hoping that would fix the problem. It didn't. The car has no EGR system and no cat, so they aren't the problem either.
Anyone have any ideas? The only other thing I can think that it might be would be the ignition module, but I'd rather not throw more money at this thing unless I have a pretty good idea of what's causing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated before I push this turd in the river.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,275
Could be a bad fuel filter, you may want to check the fuel pressure when the problem occurs. Tape a fuel pressure gage to the windshield and drive it.
Could be a bad spot in the throttle position sensor.
Have you cleaned the MAF? Have you replaced the MAP?
Could be a bad spot in the throttle position sensor.
Have you cleaned the MAF? Have you replaced the MAP?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 368
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
We checked the fuel pressure a couple of weeks ago and everything looked fine. The MAF has been cleaned already. The MAP sensor and TPS haven't been changed, so I guess I'll change those out and see what happens.
Where is the MAP sensor hiding at? I've never had to mess with it before.
Where is the MAP sensor hiding at? I've never had to mess with it before.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 479
just "checking" your wires, doesnt mean theyre good one of mine was cracked on the inside, which caused the same problem youre describing ( bucking till 2k rpm, no clanking though
). i couldnt "see" the problem (arcing or what not), but changed them and that cured the problem. hth
one of mine was cracked on the inside, which caused the same problem youre describing ( bucking till 2k rpm, no clanking though ). i couldnt "see" the problem (arcing or what not), but changed them and that cured the problem. hth
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 368
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
That's another thing I haven't done yet...I can pull each wire one by one tonight and check them to see if any have more resistance than normal (or if any are totally dead). Maybe that'll give me some clues. I hope that's not the case though because I'd rather not buy another set of $80 wires.
Speaking of, what should a plug wire normally measure if it's working correctly? 10 ohms? 5 ohms? Never had to check them like that before.
Speaking of, what should a plug wire normally measure if it's working correctly? 10 ohms? 5 ohms? Never had to check them like that before.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 479
Originally posted by Type_O_Negative_1320
Speaking of, what should a plug wire normally measure if it's working correctly? 10 ohms? 5 ohms? Never had to check them like that before.
Speaking of, what should a plug wire normally measure if it's working correctly? 10 ohms? 5 ohms? Never had to check them like that before.
wish i could tell you that
dont know. but heres a ttt for ya
i just took a chance by changing them, cause i had just installed headers, and had the problem, so i did many searches on here and that seemed like the cause in many cases, and it was
hth
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,325
From: BC
Originally posted by Type_O_Negative_1320
We checked the fuel pressure a couple of weeks ago and everything looked fine. The MAF has been cleaned already. The MAP sensor and TPS haven't been changed, so I guess I'll change those out and see what happens.
Where is the MAP sensor hiding at? I've never had to mess with it before.
We checked the fuel pressure a couple of weeks ago and everything looked fine. The MAF has been cleaned already. The MAP sensor and TPS haven't been changed, so I guess I'll change those out and see what happens.
Where is the MAP sensor hiding at? I've never had to mess with it before.
Oh, maybe the MAF is bad, even though it's been cleaned it may not be working quite right... i hear theyre real sensitive. Or maybe its just me being paranoid about my cars sensors
I cleaned my MAF once and it got a lot better.. then it eventually came back again..
Last edited by TobyZ28; Feb 23, 2004 at 03:24 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 368
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
One other possibility that I haven't ruled out yet...
Back in September, I blew out a piston down in Bowling Green due to a faulty injector. After getting everything back together again, I decided that I would make sure that the car would never go lean again and threw in a set of 37# injectors. My mechanic has changed the tune for them, but mentioned that the duty cycles were way low (around 1.5% at idle and around 38% at WOT).
Would running way too rich cause the bucking/stalling/hesitation? The plugs were semi-fouled the last time I pulled them a couple of weeks ago, but I attributed that to the fact that it hadn't been running right anyways. Also, the problems didn't start until it got really cold outside. The car has a tendency to stall out after sitting overnight...once it warms up, it quits stalling but the hesitation and bucking continue at low RPMs. The car also seems to run better after sitting in traffic and warming up (around 185* on the temp gauge or higher)...once it drops to around 170* or so, it starts acting up again.
Back in September, I blew out a piston down in Bowling Green due to a faulty injector. After getting everything back together again, I decided that I would make sure that the car would never go lean again and threw in a set of 37# injectors. My mechanic has changed the tune for them, but mentioned that the duty cycles were way low (around 1.5% at idle and around 38% at WOT).
Would running way too rich cause the bucking/stalling/hesitation? The plugs were semi-fouled the last time I pulled them a couple of weeks ago, but I attributed that to the fact that it hadn't been running right anyways. Also, the problems didn't start until it got really cold outside. The car has a tendency to stall out after sitting overnight...once it warms up, it quits stalling but the hesitation and bucking continue at low RPMs. The car also seems to run better after sitting in traffic and warming up (around 185* on the temp gauge or higher)...once it drops to around 170* or so, it starts acting up again.