ill use the Fel pro gaskets but i sure cant seem to find the other info you want, everybody just lists the cam specs at 50. this cam is supposed to be really close to the LT4 not sure if that helps. and on the head surfacing i may have taken off a few thousandths but thats it.

 

Finding DCR don't work without the ADVERTISED duration numbers. They would be 30-40 numbers higher than at 50.
244/250@50 would be like 284/290 on the cam card for the adv numbers. Call Comp and find out 'cause I can't figure it without the advertised numbers.

 

I'm not really worried about exact compression ratio i just want to know if a 3.75" stroke with basically stock heads and -7cc piston along with 5.7" rods, a mild cam close to the LT4 cam and fel pro head gaskets will be reasonable for pump gas? does this even seem close, i know there is a lot of variables with the camshaft but until i can get the real specs on the camshaft does anyone have a guesstimate?

 

 

alright well ill try and get those specs asap and get back wit ya, thank you for all your help, any ideas on how much my rods will have to be worked in order to go with that camshaft?

 

No need to search for the specs, the cc305 is a popular cam and it has the following specs:
276/290 @ 0.006 with 110* ICL, this puts the IVC at 68* ABDC.
Assuming 4.000 bore, 5.7 rods, 0.025" deck, -7 cc pistons, 0.039" gasket thickness & 55 cc chamber. Your SCR is 11.27 and DCR is 8.8.

 

you are my hero man, you have no idea how great that info is for me.

 

one problem I noticed, your pistons have floating pins according to the picture and the rods are press fit. make sure they are both either press or floating.

 

With your heads being cut (using 54 as stock and yours are less than that) and a .020 down (more reasonable) on the piston Ya have 11.94 static and 9.31 DCR. That's with a 5CC valve relief 'cause if ya get pistons they will more than likely have 2 reliefs.
Ya have to MEASURE everything to get any closer,cause ya are just guessing at this point.

 

okay bare with me guys, we are gettin closer. im now looking at the rotating assembly kit listed here- http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...07&CtgID=12006
it has -12cc domes, and i think that will help my DCR

also when the last guy figured my DCR he used standard bore, how would it be affected if i go ahead and bore it out .03 to make it an actual 383, would this create a higher DCR? is someone using an equation calulator to figure this out? is there a link?
how would i figure out if my valves with that cam and pistons will clear?

 

I used 4.030 and 12CC's is to much. CALL Probe Industries They will give ya a good price and they have what ya need.

 

Im sorry to take so much of everyones time here especially 1racerdude, but it turns out no block boring for me, my cylinders didnt need it but i figured while i was at it, but due to time frame for the only local machine shop around ive decided to just get standard bore pistons with my kit. now would 12cc pistons still be too much? theres not a whole lot of choices between -12cc and -7cc. as soon as i confirm this last detail along with valve clearance the kit will be ordered

 

Measure the chamber CC's and how far the piston is in the hole and ya might be able to squeeze by with the 7CC reliefs. If not ya will have to get your chambers opened UP or cut bigger valve reliefs. No don't go to a thicker gasket.

Ya won't know until ya MEASURE IT

 

alright ill order the kit and just plan having to take a little off the pistons if the valves dont clear or a little out of the combustion chambers, ill do some research on how much material to take off to open up the chambers a little bit.
anyone know a good location to get 400CID ARP kit and the wildon windage tray cheapest? thanks

 

also, to answer a diff. question, you can use standard sm. chevy arp stud kit and the stock windage tray, but if you got the cash, it'll be easier and more effective for an aftermarket one. I got a pic of mine if you want to see how I bent the stock one (tweaked it really is all). also, make sure your oil pump clears the main stud that goes under the pump. I didnt pay attention and it cost me alot of time to dissasemble the rotating assembly, replace the rear main cap, and get it all aligntbored/honed. got pics of that to on my yahoo photo page.